Is it annular or external? Anybody have a picture of one handy? I seem to be losing fluid and cannot find any wetness anywhere. Making me wish for a throttle cable.
I am still looking for a 931 ring and pinion for the LD200 tranaxle.
Is it annular or external? Anybody have a picture of one handy? I seem to be losing fluid and cannot find any wetness anywhere. Making me wish for a throttle cable.
I am still looking for a 931 ring and pinion for the LD200 tranaxle.
I looked again today and found what appears to be the clutch line going into the top of the case near the flywheel. So I suspect that means it is an annular cylinder.
Ouch!
So does the engine and transaxle have to be pulled back to change it?
I would have thought you should be able to pull the gearbox only, leaving the motor in place.
I have had internal (infernal?) slave cylinders in various cars for a good number of years now. I have three rules of thumb re these things:
1. Always carry a spare set of the CORRECT O rings in my spares
2. Always replace them anytime i have a gearbox out of the car. What do they cost, like $30 bucks or something? But hours of work when they fail, and always at the worst time.....
3. Be SUPER careful when re assembling them, so as to not nick a new O ring
Enjoy!
BT
It is vital you get the correct O rings. Most O rings do not last with brake fluid. Some of these slaves are imperial and some are metric (sometimes just a couple of thou in size between them; easy to get the wrong ones).
And yes, once you find the correct ones, buy at least 3 sets (one for now, one for an emergency trackside and a spare). You will never find the right ones on race day at a local shop.
The O rings MUST be replaced every season. No discussion. One of my friends (and ex F1 mechanic) says twice a season. The O rings are being used in ways the good Lord never intended.
And yes, the box slides straight off the back of the engine. If you don't have quick release (sealed dry break) brake and clutch line fittings, now is a good time to fit them (and get the fittings designed for brake fluid).
obviously everyone is likely to have an opinion. so I will merely state my experience.
The first time I changed clutch slave cylinder o rings it was on my 94 VD. I used brake fluid as the lubricant and while very careful with assembly, nicked an o ring and was presented the opportunity to FedEx the parts and redo the job when I discovered the failure shortly before an event. I’ve forgotten who it was at Taylor that advised I use rubber grease when assembling but I did and have never had a failure shortly after assembly since. I’ve used the red rubber grease you get in various Girling kits and the grease in a tube with equal success.
I now have an RF01 and have not changed my point of view.
as noted when I began this post, I’m sure there are other opinions.
John
Thanks for all the thoughtful comments.
Is that just a stock Fit clutch disc? I wanna replace that too while in there.
From what I recall seeing in the GCR contact Quick Silver, see link below, or use stock clutch disk. Not sure if there is a difference between the 2 options.
Honda PN: 22300-RB0-005; Quicksilver PN: QSHDR-411.
https://www.quicksilverraceengines.com/
We just installed new 20s on my front wheels having done the rears a couple of weeks ago. We are having the devil of a time bleeding them. Do the bottom bleeders need bled too?
Are you sure the air is not trapped at the master cylinder? Do you have brake pressure sensors? If so, did you bleed air from this correctly? When bleeding calipers, I tap them lightly with a dead blow. This is coated with heavy rubber so it doesn't mar the caliper. If there is a bubble sticking to something in caliper, tapping it may prompt it to come loose.
any one know a source to get the O-rings?
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