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Thread: 3D printed fun

  1. #121
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    I have a roll of Nylon 6 and a roll of black ABS I'm saving for some good stuff. Both are Kodak 750 g spools. I'm going to start playing around with PTEG again. Early on when I used the stock slicer settings I had so much adhesion that I destroyed 4 build plates. I understand Z offset a bit more now, so I can hopefully play around trying to tune it without creating other problems. I'm going to start with a huge Z and sneak up on getting just enough adhesion.

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    Weird petg usually has the opposite problem.

    I use feeler gauges to set my z height.

    Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk

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    Rick - look nice - but with all due respect I think one can get a better and neater solution with just the 2 tie-wraps.
    If the lines, or wires, are more or less in-line then one tie-wrap loosely round both tightened with the second one as a "belt".
    If they are at an angle then one tie-wrap round each linked together like a chain. Derek.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner View Post

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  5. #124
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dereklola View Post
    Rick - look nice - but with all due respect I think one can get a better and neater solution with just the 2 tie-wraps.
    If the lines, or wires, are more or less in-line then one tie-wrap loosely round both tightened with the second one as a "belt".
    If they are at an angle then one tie-wrap round each linked together like a chain. Derek.
    Which was how they were secured originally - along with some 3m rubber traction tape in between. And the vibration still wore holes in the aluminum tubes. Braid in contact with anything is just a #2 file in the long term.

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  7. #125
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    As long as we are both happy that is fine.

    I am surprised the stainless braid wore through your tie-wraps and into the al tube.
    I had some on my cars for years with no visible wear - one of the reasons I liked them.

    Have fun - Derek

  8. #126
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    I misunderstood you. Now I get it - your method places zip ties between the tubes - I didn't read it that way. Yep - that would work.

  9. #127
    Contributing Member mikey's Avatar
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    Anyone printing carbon fiber? Brake ducts would be neat to design and print

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    That would require a very specialized machine indeed. And very expensive.

    You can print carbon infused plastic though, but from what I can tell it's mostly cosmetic with a normal printer. Maybe slightly stronger?

    I got some aluminum infused and it is really brittle.

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    Contributing Member mikey's Avatar
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    Wasn’t sure anything else could serve as the duct. But then again not really sure how hot the center hub part of the upright gets. The duct would attach on the back and direct air through the center of the axle.

  12. #130
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    high temp FFF plastics tend to be Nylon and Polycarbonate. you can get them carbon reinforced for strength, not temperature resistance.

    They will hold up to about 195 C before starting to deform. However, it takes a special high temp extruder to lay them down (my machine has one).

    The carbon fill wears out the nozzles pretty quickly unless its hardened steel or Ruby $$$$.

    Fiberglas was used long before carbon. limiting factor is the resin more than the fabric.

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    Senior Member 924RACR's Avatar
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    I would be inclined to use the printer to make molds for regular layup. Indeed, if I ever have space to set up a printer (and can work one up with at least a 2' or 3' reach in at least one axis) I'll be heading that direction and building up some multi-piece molds for new bodywork...

    Sadly, these days, I don't even have space for a drill press...
    Vaughan Scott
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    Senior Member Stan Clayton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 924RACR View Post
    I would be inclined to use the printer to make molds for regular layup. Indeed, if I ever have space to set up a printer (and can work one up with at least a 2' or 3' reach in at least one axis) I'll be heading that direction and building up some multi-piece molds for new bodywork...
    You're in luck! The Modix Big-120X V3 3D Printer has a 120cm (47.2") X-axis (plus 60cm Y and 66cm Z). I have no relationship with Modix...just sharing a tool source I've been drooling over.

    I have a friend in a non-racing composites business who uses them to directly print to mold, slicing together sections to make parts up to 20+ feet long. We are evaluating replacing our 8'x4'x2' 3-axis pattern cutting mill with a Modix to eliminate the man hours needed to finish a pattern from which to take molds.
    Stan Clayton
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    Yeah for sure you could print just the piece that attaches to the hub and then mold fiberglass or carbon over it.

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  16. #134
    Contributing Member mikey's Avatar
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    Thanks for the education on CF printing. I will get to work designing for a mold.

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    Contributing Member DaveW's Avatar
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    Default These folks made a shock air-scoop for me

    Quote Originally Posted by mikey View Post
    Wasn’t sure anything else could serve as the duct. But then again not really sure how hot the center hub part of the upright gets. The duct would attach on the back and direct air through the center of the axle.
    https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/sho...rototype-parts
    Dave Weitzenhof

  18. #136
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    I have a Qidi x-max, which is about the biggest non-commercial enclosed device you can buy right now. 200x300x200mm build volume.

    Since most of these printers are rep rap based, it's fairly "easy" to build huge ones with just some changes to g-code defining the various limits.

    I say "easy" because if you were to follow this stuff on various forums you'd be astounded at the variety of problems people have when they get out a bit beyond the norm.

  19. #137
    Contributing Member mikey's Avatar
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    Default wheel spacers

    Ok, I've drawn up front and rear spacers that would be useful to be able to bolt the transport wheels on when the brake rotors and hats are not installed. these would only be used for pushing the car around, no real stress. They're required because if the brake rotors and hats are not installed then the transport wheels interfere with the brake calipers, which are reinstalled after removing the rotors just for safe keeping.

    Mike or James, would you mind printing 2 each style? Happy to pay you or donate to a charity.

    Cheers,
    Mike


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  20. #138
    Contributing Member mikey's Avatar
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    Default little airflow improvement piece

    my 2D drawing skills in paint are getting better LOL
    This piece is to smooth the airflow going into the left side pod. Printed in black would be great!
    *updated drawing - previously forgot the overall length


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    Last edited by mikey; 05.10.20 at 9:48 PM.

  21. #139
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    Default Sequential shift 3D printed gearbox


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  23. #140
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    Finally got PETG sorted out. Had been working with nylon and had a lot of spool tangles, so made this anti-tangle spool holder for the nylon. Then I sorted the nylon out and made these nifty tube clamps to support my electronics tray above the engine and behind my head. Had multiple generations of aluminum MS clamps crack and fall apart from all the vibration there.

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  25. #141
    Classifieds Super License Rick Iverson's Avatar
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    Now THAT is trick

    Quote Originally Posted by Jamesbe View Post
    Huh if I knew anything about aerodynamics I'd try that. Likely make it worse.

    Finished the front brackets for my alignment jig

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    V/r

    Iverson

  26. #142
    Contributing Member mikey's Avatar
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  27. #143
    Senior Member RSS's Avatar
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    Recently joined the cult I mean community of 3D printing. Plan is to make molds for some fiberglass layups and other brackets etc.

    So far been learning the cad software (onshape) and printing off models to make sure they are correct. Enjoying Onshape as it has a NACA airfoil generator add on so you just need to know the profile name/# and its done for you.

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  29. #144
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    Default coil wire retainer

    something simple, lightweight, and useful:



    I have no idea why the image rotated from what's on my desktop.....
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  31. #145
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    Wow now that is simple and very functional!

  32. #146
    Senior Member Stan Clayton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner View Post
    something simple, lightweight, and useful:

    I have no idea why the image rotated from what's on my desktop.....
    If you're up for sharing the .stl, Rick, I'd love to print one for my SV engine's coil. Thanks, Stan
    Stan Clayton
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  33. #147
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Clayton View Post
    If you're up for sharing the .stl, Rick, I'd love to print one for my SV engine's coil. Thanks, Stan
    PM me with your e-mail

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  35. #148
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    Autodesk just released an add-in for F360 that optimizes airfoil shapes for use, speed, and fluid environment. Just downloaded it but haven't installed it yet.

    From what the author said, you tell it what you are looking to optimize around (lift, drag reduction, etc) and then tell it the speed regime, fluid, etc and it creates an optimized airfoil for that application.

    I'd think this wold be very useful for streamline fairings.

  36. #149
    Senior Member AVR_Shane's Avatar
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    Getting in on the fun....made a hitch plug with our team logo/name

    Shane Viccary
    #27 Citation-Zink Z-16

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  38. #150
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    This week i made a bunch of props that snap on the (failing) rods that hold up my RV bay doors. They are tow-sided, and store by snapping on the body of the strut.

    Also dropped a washer down the oil drain back hole in the pinto. I had magnets that were too big and mounted on a spring-y flexible stick, or small enough but mounted on a rod. So I made a magnet holder for the spring-y stick that holds one of those really strong little dot magnets. heat-melted it all together.

    Also made Anderson plug mounts, handles, and a dual voltmeter for the battery bay of my coach. Now I can instantly disconnect power and it's much easier to pull the tray out for maintenance.


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    Finally got a 3d printed part on a race car. My son designed and printed a catch bottle holder.

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  41. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by PK View Post
    Finally got a 3d printed part on a race car. My son designed and printed a catch bottle holder.

    Another part that is very useful is a cover for Weber carb. I had a model of car that the air filter was in the engine cover. So, when that was removed, carb top was open. Always good to have carb cover around!

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  43. #153
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    Default FF

    Just remember to either make it air tight covering the choke shaft passage so the car will not start, or attach a long "remove before race"banner to it. I have seen more than one person not start a race because the engine would not accelerate with a cover on it.
    Roland Johnson
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  45. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roland V. Johnson View Post
    Just remember to either make it air tight covering the choke shaft passage so the car will not start, or attach a long "remove before race"banner to it. I have seen more than one person not start a race because the engine would not accelerate with a cover on it.
    Guilty as charged. Fortunately, it was a qualifying session, and even more fortunately, it made itself completely evident while still in pit lane.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamesbe View Post
    Elevation track map? I did one as well, did you design yourself or find it online?

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    James (or anyone else for that matter), have you created your own elevation track map? I'm trying to figure out how to use topographical maps to get the elevation of the track...it's not straight forward. If anyone has done this, I'd be thrilled to get some pointers!
    Shane Viccary
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  47. #156
    Contributing Member mikey's Avatar
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    Default elevation track maps

    it was mentioned earlier in this thread that GPS data from AIM can be converted into a file for 3D printing of the track, including elevation.

    maybe just see how that is done and who has AIM GPS data for the track(s) you're interested in

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    Yeah I think I posted instructions? Took me forever to figure it out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AVR_Shane View Post
    James (or anyone else for that matter), have you created your own elevation track map? I'm trying to figure out how to use topographical maps to get the elevation of the track...it's not straight forward. If anyone has done this, I'd be thrilled to get some pointers!
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamesbe View Post
    Yeah I think I posted instructions? Took me forever to figure it out.

    Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk
    See James' instruction in post 65
    Garey Guzman
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    I did see that. My data doesn't do GPS so just brings in another level of complexity trying to get the data from someone else. Topography seemed to be a good alternative, but is proving challenging.
    Shane Viccary
    #27 Citation-Zink Z-16

  51. #160
    Global Moderator Mike B's Avatar
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    Depending on the track, you might find the 3d printer files on Thingiverse. I found Road America but didn't look for others. Mid-Ohio or Watkins Glen are probably on there. Blackhawk Farms or Putnam Park, probably not.
    Mike Beauchamp
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