Garey Guzman
FF #4 (Former Cal Club member, current Atlanta Region member)
https://redroadracing.com/ (includes Zink and Citation Registry)
https://www.thekentlives.com/ (includes information on the FF Kent engine, chassis and history)
Would this be a good time to ask management for a "downloads" section to post these 3d codes (stl/g-code/etc) - for those that want to share? These could be available to site members only, and not-for-profit. Works well on other sites, just thinking there are some ApexSpeed - specific models that might get lost/buried in other CAD/CAM sites (GrabCAD/Thinkverse/etc).
Cheers - Jim
When I used to fly Phantoms, I was called an AVIATOR.
Now I race cars. So, am I now called a PAVIATOR?
not to mention math channels and various configuration files for data systems! Would be nice if folks started to share that.
I had a series of floating nut plates to install so I made a simple drill guide to help locate the rivet holes. I uploaded the .stl to Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4153825
Mike Beauchamp
RF95 Prototype 2
Get your FIA rain lights here:
www.gyrodynamics.net/product/cartek-fia-rain-light/
Oh good idea!
I've been making drawers and stuff for the wife to organize. Just spent far too much time modifying someone else's design would have been faster to start from scratch, oh well.
Did make this last night for fun. I designed this jack for the front of my PFM.
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So... would any of you be willing to draw and print a simple part for me? I need a base to capture / secure the bottom of my coolant overflow resevoir.
1.0" total height, 3.5" x 3.5" overall width x length
3.0" dia x 0.6" depth hole
and a 0.95" dia thru hole; all holes / radii are concentric
Well that was easy....
https://youtu.be/a97k-4KzCfE
Link to design: http://drivesideways.com/images/mike...ant_bottle.stl
Only question is, did you leave some gap or is that the exact size of the bottle? Usually need at least about 0.3mm gap for tolerance when 3d printed.
Last edited by Jamesbe; 02.09.20 at 11:38 PM.
Mike Beauchamp
RF95 Prototype 2
Get your FIA rain lights here:
www.gyrodynamics.net/product/cartek-fia-rain-light/
You guys rock!
James, I didn’t leave a gap, 3.0” is the bottle diameter. Want a tight fit - do I still need a gap?
Also came up with potentially better way to fasten this part to the floor so I might need to make a mod. Will measure first thing in the morning.
Mike
in the hobbyist community there doesn't seem to be much discussion regarding tolerancing - what the machines should be capable of doing and what your basic dimensions and wall widths give you.
I'm sure there's considerable dicussion in the industrial community.
I usually end up with a sander or a file to get the last bit right.
Yeah it depends on many factors, shrinkage is a big one. May print perfect and still contract after cooling.
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Updated drawing. I added 0.625" overall height, and a 1/4" through hole. The resevoir fits in the 3.0" dia x 0.6" deep hole, and as Rick suggested, I could hand sand to fit if it is tight from machine tolerances. The 0.95" hole has changed from 0.4" deep to 0.65" deep (reference from bottom of 3.0" hole to top of 1/4" hole). My apologies if I wasted anyone's time with an incomplete original drawing!
Modifying is pretty easy. I can probably redo it tonight unless Mike was going to draw it.
I have a race at 8 but will try before or after.
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James,
Thanks - Mike already did it! Good luck at your race and thanks again! Can't wait for the day I have enough time to do stuff like this at home myself!
Cheers,
Mike
How is the reservoir mount held in place? There is a flat in plan view that seems like a mounting face but I don't see any holes or a flange to bolt to.
Jim
This 3D printed reservoir base arrived today. Perfect fit for the Mr. Gasket overflow reservoir. The only thing it’s missing is a Gyrodynamics decal!
Thanks Mike!
Looks great! Glad I could help!
Mike Beauchamp
RF95 Prototype 2
Get your FIA rain lights here:
www.gyrodynamics.net/product/cartek-fia-rain-light/
I'm kind of proud of this one.
I had a Lisle generic clutch tool, and the spud that fit in the crank bearing was just a bit sloppy, and the plate slider had grabbed the plate OK, but when I got to the point of tightening the pressure plate I always had to estimate where the middle was. this has led to more than a couple difficult rear clip installations.
So after measuring the bearing, the splines, and the pressure plate fingers I came up with the following device that uses the Lisle bar.
Fits absolutely perfectly with probably no more than a thou or two of wiggle room. now I can line up the pressure plate fingers and as i tighten the plate down the fingers will close on each step, keeping me appraised of whether or not it's still concentric.
First time printing threads. 3/8-16 printed perfectly except for the printer starting each thread in the same spot, so some oozing into the threads, easily cleaned up when inserting the handle.
50 cents of material and 6 hrs printing time.
Is this something a non-techno savvy person can do?
V/r
Iverson
sort of. You have to be able to use CAD, and the ones designed for 3D are different from those designed for subtractive processes. The slicers used to prepare designs for printing all have unique syntax and right now there's nothing that explains exactly what all these settings do and how they interact. And finally, all of this changes with the materials - for instance, two different colors of ABS from the same manufacturer print differently.
A couple of years back the industry thought they were on the verge of having one of these in every household, but it's a long way from being an appliance.
I realized this morning I needed a transponder mount for my spec miata.
Went to the track borrowed a transponder. Only took me about 30 mins to design. I surprised myself because it was a perfect fit the first time!
Not overly complex but a lot measurements had to line up.
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How long to print?
john f
My whole car will be made of plastic lol.
Antenna bracket.
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I’m looking to have a couple small shins made for a wing project. Does anyone here know what the cost for that would be and or does anyone have any interest in printing it for me on this thread. I would cover the costs plus a reasonable fee.
contact me via email at btomasi96@gmail.com for details.
thanks
Brian Tomasi
I'd help but I'm in canada making mailing annoying especially now...
I've been printing like mad, developed some brackets to hold pipe to make alignment bars. Works awesome.
And I designed and made a bird feeder.
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Think of the possibilities!:
They could even be "color matched" to your livery.
Cheers - Jim
When I used to fly Phantoms, I was called an AVIATOR.
Now I race cars. So, am I now called a PAVIATOR?
Huh if I knew anything about aerodynamics I'd try that. Likely make it worse.
Finished the front brackets for my alignment jig
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Last edited by Jamesbe; 03.30.20 at 6:57 PM.
Mike Beauchamp
RF95 Prototype 2
Get your FIA rain lights here:
www.gyrodynamics.net/product/cartek-fia-rain-light/
Latest bits - saddles to support water pipes. Working on some line separators next.
To keep braid from wearing through the aluminum and keep things tidy. Wide and narrow linear separators, and one for two items at 90 deg.
Good idea for sure!
I have been printing face shields for medical use. Up to 100 shields now.
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Waaaay back at the beginning of March I brought up printed shields/masks to our local hospital and they blew me off. I think China Lake is starting to print shields this week but I don't know who they are going to. Kitsap has been printing for a month and NAVAIR has an approved design going to USFK. For those interested in decent designs that are going through a vetting process look here:
https://3dprint.nih.gov/collections/covid-19-response
Most of these are only suitable for community use (non-medical) or medical folks in a non-clinical environment like lab people. One of the neatest Ideas I saw was a plastic cover for the N95 masks so any droplets would mostly go on the cover, which could easily be sterilized, making it easier to justify using re-using the N95 masks.
My wife sewed up a half-dozen faster than I could print them so I'm going the old-fashioned way.
The grouo I'm working with vetted 2 designs with the hospital. We print them, they sterilize and assemble.
Takes me 1 hour per. So far we have donated around 400 in 2 weeks. The university has done 2000.
The problem is now you can't find material in stock and even if you do shipping takes forever. Next day delivery is now about a week.
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