Weber float setting / adjustment

[Steve Demeter]

I know that the general rule of thumb for float level on a Pinto is to have the fuel level about half way up the "shelf" at the front of the bowl.

But never having the need to set the drop I have no real clue what it should be, how it is measured or how to adjust it. I am sure that the last one is staring me in the face, but can not decipher how to bend and of the tangs on the float without changing the float level.

I am obviously missing something.

[DaveW]

On the 32/36 brass float, the tang aimed at the floats is the one to adjust the level. The one perpendicular to that (at the bottom in the attached photo) is the one to bend to adjust the droop - it rests against the float valve body.

Link to float-setting diagram:
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/317.htm

[Purple Frog]

Carb issues:
Is it dumping fuel at idle (too high float level) or during cornering (need to solder shut the secondary idle jet)? Or is it some other problem?


Carb Jets:
The secondaries should be mechanically operated. This means that any time you are at full throttle (and this will be 95% of the time), both the primary and secondary will be open. If you are seeing a discontinuity in the EGT's, that may be due to the auxiliary enrichment tubes (put in by various engine builders to modify the fuel distribution) starting their flow with a slight delay - this is normal.


The main jets are located in the bottom of the float bowl. To change them you remove the top of the carb (6 screws) -- if you are careful not to tear the gasket, it can be reused. You will probably have different jets for the primary & secondary venturi -- so be careful to note what size is currently used for each one. A "one jet leaner" usually mean a differnence of 5 (i.e. change a 175 to a 170 - smaller numbers are leaner).

Your carb also has air corrector jets (aka A/C) -- you also remove the carb top to access these -- but they are located on the upward face of the carb body. Again, primary and secondary values may be different. The air correctors adjust the mixture just at the high flows (i.e. high RPMs) -- three steps of A/C jets is about the same as one step of main jets. A larger A/C jet will make the mixture leaner, and a smaller one will make it richer.

Finally, you will find idle jets on the side of the carbs in the main body, just below the top. You unscrew the holder, and the jet sits in that. Watch out not to lose the rubber o-ring under the jet holder. Idle jets are hardly ever changed, but you should pull them out to make sure a piece of debris hasn't clogged the very small orifice.

The mixture screw located near the base of the carb will adjust the mixture at idle. With the engine running at idle (usually 900 - 1000 RPMs), screw it in until the engine starts to run rough, then back it out again until the engine again begins to sound a bit rough -- at that point, screw it back in 1/4 to 1/2 turn and you're all set -- a smooth running engine.

DaveW’s jets right now are:

JET PRI SEC
AIR 200 140
FUEL 135 165
(FOR AVGAS, ~55F)

Rollin Butler’s starting point.:
JET PRI SEC
Air 175 160
Fuel 145 155

[Steve Demeter]

On the 32/36 brass float, the tang aimed at the floats is the one to adjust the level. The one perpendicular to that (at the bottom in the attached photo) is the one to bend to adjust the droop - it rests against the float valve body.

Link to float-setting diagram:
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/317.htm

Now I see. It was staring me in the face.

Thank you.