HF Manual Tire Changer

[Lebowski]

Anyone using the manual tire changer that Harbor Freight sells?

Can't quite figure out how to put the rubber donut back on the rim.

Someone set me in the right direction please.

[ehaiss]

Hi Dave,

A couple of us in Portland have been using the HF mounting stand & static balancer. The rears are a bear to mount and remove, but certainly do-able. Fronts are easy. If you could be more specific, I might be able to give some free advice (which is usually worth what you pay for it).

In general, we found that using the soapy goop to lubricate the rim/tire works well. I wouldn't use the HF Mounting stand for really new/nice/magnisium wheels.

Dan J.

[Lebowski]

Hi Dan.

I got the tires off, fairly easy once you figure out the technique, but I can't figure out how to use the tool to get them back on. That's what I need help with.

Those Chinese instructions are as clear as mud to me.

Thanks.

[ThinkFast]

I want to know if you guys that bought these think it's a good investment. Would you have bought a better one if you had it to do over again? What kind of wheels do you have?

[Bobby Oergel]

After going to HF and reading the Chinese instructions I feel your pain. :mad:
When you start the bead over the rim that section must stay pushed down into the deepest part of the rim. It is a smaller radius and thats where you get the room to stetch the new tire over the outer edge. Use plenty of lube. First ones will be a bear untill you get the touch.
Good luck
Vic
PS: LUBE!!

[Chuck Gillis]

I have one of these POS's, and it's not worth the money. The anti-rotation pin bent 90 degrees on the first use and the unit is at best, marginally functional. The mounting and dismounting bar is a total POS.

The balancer is a nice addition though, but you have to remove 2 opposing springs to work with light wheels and tires.

gm

[JVRACER]

I bought the HF changer ( on sale for $38.00 ) and used it all this season. For the money, I'm satisfied. When you are putting new tires on, you have to push down on the tire with your knee to keep it on the rim as you pull on the bar. It's not perfect, but it works and for $38.........
Greg's right about the balancer, pull two of the springs for the lighter FF wheels.
I've been using WD40 for years to lube the tires. We tried using soap or simple green to mount shifter kart tires and actually spun the tire off the rims. WD dries out quickly and solved the problem. Has anyone else used WD for this ?

[Dan Kennison]

We have used the HF machine for two seasons and I would not buy it again. We had to modify it quite a bit to get it to work properly. Bent the dismount arm right out of the box and had to weld reinforcments on the sides. The mounting iron is also not very good. It will scratch the outside of your rim if you do not polish it or use a plastic cover for the head. It is also a two man job to mount, one to pull the bar and one to keep the bead down on the rim. Might invest in the next level mounter this season.
[url="http://www.rogerkrausracing.com/"]www.rogerkrausracing.com/[/url] 490.00 but it looks more professional. Maybe someone out there has used this machine and can comment. Dale

[Jake T]

I have used the Roger Kraus changer for several years. It is a very solid, quality set up. It is not cheap but pays for itself quickly. It takes some practice to get good at mounting and dismounting the tires but once you learn the technique it’s not difficult. I built a different base because the RK one is very heavy. It’s fine if you are going to bolt it down to the garage floor but if you plan to take it to the track I recommend building a lighter version. With a portable base make sure you bolt it to a large enough piece of plywood to stand on while you work.

[size="1"][ December 21, 2002, 08:26 PM: Message edited by: J Nash ][/size]

[Lebowski]

I think I see the picture now. Will go out and give it another shot.

The stop pin fell out on the third dismount but I got a 10-32 screw, put a spacer around it, drilled a hole into the plate at the proper distance from the center post and it's working fine.

I also cleaned the powder coat off the bar and polished it and that's working fine now.

After I get these tires mounted the unit will have paid for itself.

Lubing, a little polishing and a mod or two and I'm happy with it.

[Lebowski]

Alright! The first tire is mounted. Lube and technique, piece of cake.

Thanks guys.

[Jere']

Dave,

What model number tire mounting "machine" did you buy. They have two, one says it is a "minitire changer" ITEM 34552-6VGA , the other says "Portable Tire Changer" ITEM 34542-0VGA .
Thanks

[kea]

I bought the cheapy machine and use it quite successfully. BUT, I do have a mounting tool (the Bar that is in your hand when you remove and install the tires) from Ken Tool. It makes the world of difference and has the correct shape at both ends for the job. So you end up spending another $40 or so to get a truly useful tool. I have no gripe with the balancer.

Steve

[Dan Kennison]

Steve. What is the Ken Tool tire iron model number you use? Does it scratch the edge of the rims? Did you just call them and order it? Thanks, Dale

[kea]

Sorry this took so long.

[url="http://www.kentool.com/Mount_CenterPostTool.htm"]http://www.kentool.com/Mount_CenterPostTool.htm[/url]

The part number is T143A or also known as a slikstik. In reality there is no way you can muscle a tire off a rim with one of the centerpost (manual) tools and not leave a bit of a mark on the edge of the rim. This tool has a much nicer shape on both ends and does a lot less digging into the rim than the cheapy bar that comes with the HF stand. I don't think I ever use the other bar, except as a lever to break the beads.

[Ray Dona]

That mount/demount tool looks pretty nice, but the one place I found that had a price listed it at $70. Is it really that much better than the tool that comes with the HF device?

To avoid damaging the rims, I have cut little plastic pieces out of 2.5 gallon water jugs which I fold over the edge of the rim. The piece has to be repositioned or replaced for each use because it wears through. It's also a real pain to deal with this extra piece because it takes another hand to manage or the iron slides off the plastic before the plastic slides around the rim.

I've been looking on the net for some sort of a protective boot to put over the end of the iron, but I haven't found anything yet. Anyone have any sources for such a thing?

[USF2000]

I found the Slik Stik Tool at [url="http://www.toolsource.com"]http://www.toolsource.com[/url] part# 70011 (ken tool #34660) for 70.81

Dave