I have a couple of maintenance questions - I have a leak at the the input shaft seal on the gearbox and need to replace the seal. Is this a simple job of removing the seal with a seal puller then gently inserting the new seal? Or is there more to it?
Also, while I have the gearbox off, I'm going to drop the oil pan and put a new gasket on it - are there any tricks to try to prevent oil leaks?
Thanks!
Ok, I'll try. (truth is some of mine leak too...)
The finger seal kit from Taylor is the best on the market. BUT it and replacing the bushings is only as good as the FINGER that goes through it. If that thing is 10 years old and you feel the wear in the shaft, don't waste your money on the rest of it. Period.
But if you want it to be right, replace the finger, the bushings (the American ones are a no brainer) and carefully work in the new finger into them AND add the seal kit. Cost? Yea, about $130 or so, but the problem will go away. Shifting may be a bit tight for a couple of races as the finger wears in. Resist the temptation to hog out those new bushings!
As for the pan, I do best with silicone on both sides of the cork. Some luck with gaskasinch (sp?) but haven't used it in years.
Other ideas?
Dan: Todd is talking about the "diaper", an aftermarket seal that goes on the shifter shaft (a.k.a., the "hockey stick"). You seem to be asking about the actual input shaft seal, and the answer is that you should buy the "German" seal from Taylor. You can pull the old one out by drilling a small hole into the seal holder and gently pry it out, or use a seal puller. No big tricks, just make sure the new seal goes in evenly.
For oil pan sealing, I like "The Right Stuff" by Permatex; comes in a "cheez whiz" sort of can, works a lot better than the silicone tube stuff.
My bad. You're right. He did say input shaft, just started thinking leak and the finger came to mind. German seal is the way to go, cut about 1/16" out of the sping before fitting it, and I have them in stock too.
What's this about cutting 1/16" out of the spring??
Top secret. Forget I said it.
(Remove the spring and shorten it a bit)
Dave,
While you have the gearbox off, also check the alignment of the input shaft with the crank. If it is off, the seal will tend to leak, and worse, the clutch splines wear quickly. What type and make of car do you have? Let me know and I will write up the procedure and post it here.
Todds secret trick does work, but increases seal wear rate. Better than an oil leak, though!
Craig
Thanks for the offer Craig - I have a Crossle 32f. I have a feeling the leak came from having the gearbox off the car and in storage for two years.
Any advice you can provide is greatly appreciated!
Thanks again!
Ah, that would be a dried out seal.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Permissions
