What kind of setups do you use in your garage/shop? Looking for something that can possibly be brought to the track. Post pictures!
Garage lift and stands
What kind of setups do you use in your garage/shop? Looking for something that can possibly be brought to the track. Post pictures!
Floor jack and jack stands.
Jack has an adapter to pick rear of car up under wing mount.
Chain hoist from the ceiling. Even a HorribleFreight one is good enough.
At the track just use a quikjack and a section of 6" PVC pipe.
You say "lift", not jack, so I'm assuming you mean waist-high tall stands.Originally Posted by CoryDerr
Marty at MKTechnlogies makes the primo (but $$) one.
Harbor Freight sells similar cheaper ones that are massive and BARELY transportable.
Years ago (I think it was the Webb brothers) had an I-beam mounted high on the outside wall of their trailer that swung out and used a chain hoist. Was very slick.
As stated, MK Technologies has an A frame. http://www.mktechnologies.com/produc...kt_a-frame.htm
I use one of there stands that are on wheels. http://www.mktechnologies.com/produc...ssis_stand.htm
It is really handy in the shop to get up in the air about waste height. In the trailer and at the track I use it as a tire rack
In the shop I use the 4 post lift and a strap over the jack tray and through the roll bar, Lifts the FM high enough to roll the chassis stand under.
I don't know your budget or what kind of car you have so take this based on a Formula Ford or FV
First off - Simple - Portable FV lift or heavier duty version for FF or FC:
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/show...?67189-FF-lift
Waist high stands:
When I first built my car I used folding steel sawhorses from Hazard Fraught. 1000LB capacity each, less than $20 on sale.
Later I bought a Brenner stand which is portable. It consists of two end frames on large casters and a connection piece of steel tubing. The gantry lift is a Brenner Lift. Brenner no longer makes them and you wouldn't want to pay for shipping. Photo below. No tools are required to assemble.
For the paddock I made 10" wood stands from scrap 2x8 and and 4x8. Cost free. I use a Hazard Fraught aluminum jack in the paddock.
Last edited by DanW; 11.27.17 at 10:31 PM.
“Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty.” -Peter Egan
Anybody try an engine hoist? They make foldable models and ones that stick into your truck hitch also.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W2ASk10TYW...0/IMG_1377.jpg
Last edited by mikey; 11.28.17 at 11:03 PM.
That's what I use in my garage because the gantry lift is tight for overhead space.Anybody try an engine hoist? They make foldable models and ones that stick into your truck hitch also.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W2ASk10TYW...0/IMG_1377.jpg
“Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty.” -Peter Egan
I did. The problem is you need one with quite a bit of reach to move it from floor to high enough.
I bought the biggest HF folding one and it didn't work. You can get the arm long enough but at that length it's limited to 500lbs or so. Had to use an old non folding type.
The other problem with the engine lift is you need to get the car off the ground to roll the legs under. The HF units have pretty tall legs (like 8+ inches) so my pit stands didn't work.
My space is extremely tight. Built a gantry and it works great. It goes together in about 5 minutes.
I'd love to have a gantry - maybe one of these days/next garage.
Meantime, I use the HF folding engine hoist. It's adequate to raise my P2, no issues. I do need to raise the car on my quick-jacks to get the hoist underneath, as noted. I also have some interference with it vs. the legs of my full-height car stand, which is annoying - will eventually mod the stand to make it all happy again.
But no pics - I'm sure it looks amazingly sketchy when I'm swinging the entire car around on the end of that boom at chest height...
Built this winch lift from pictures online. Modified to fold nearly flat and use added A frame for safety and added stiffness. Works great but next one will be better.
Anybody try an engine hoist? They make foldable models and ones that stick into your truck hitch also.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W2ASk10TYW...0/IMG_1377.jpg
Is it okay (structurally) to lift a FF/FC with just the main hoop? Seems like it would be but I hate to ASSume...
That's a pretty common recovery technique at the track, so I'd expect yes.
For me, I use a strap to balance the weight better; my CG's a bit too far forward of the main hoop to just grab it, so I sling it to grab the front one as well, lifts nice and level.
I use the Harbor Freight motorcycle lift. On sale and with a 20% off coupon you can get them for under $300. Works great and if you leave the cover off the one end you can get the sump off the motor on an older kent powered car. You just need to push the car up on some 2x4s to clear the deck then pump away.
Graham
Interestingly I just came across this on craigslist. It's not quite what you're talking about here, but with a few changes this would be pretty awesome:
https://hartford.craigslist.org/snw/...384842284.html
Similar to what I did using heavy duty shelving bought at a garage sale and a bit of ingenuity. Two winches, cables and pulleys.
Friend's estate in Colorado has this one for sale, not easily shipped:
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/rmvr...ained-ads-f79/
Attachment 75364
Not mine, but if you have the room in the trailer, this works
Jim
Swift DB-1
Talent usually ends up in front, but fun goes from the front of the grid all the way to the back.
I will put another vote for hoist and stands. I already own a hoist so zero cost there. I now use home depot stands $35 (harbor freight ones suck), and about $7 in wood and your good to go. However moving that hoist on and off the trailer might be a pita. Its not that hard to stick some wood under the normal chassis stands to get the car up high enough to clear the hoist legs. To be fair, I race on a lower income budget.
Has anyone tried something like this
Looks like an option to lift the car at the track
I use something similar to LIFT my vee, but the base is WAY too small to support *WORKING* on it without additional stands. It's also pretty critical EXACTLY where the lift is placed. Gotta KNOW where that CG is.... and you can't CHANGE it much while in the air. Just taking a tire off could easily tip it off.... and you can't LEAN on the car either.. and, I wouldn't DREAM of lifting it on anything other than a SOLID, FLAT CONCRETE FLOOR!
Steve, FV80
Racing since '73 - FV since '77
I modified the original design of the winch lift to fold flat. Great to use anywhere, and works great with a standard booster pack.
In which way did you modify it?
I already have a gantry to lift my FB at home. I was looking at this for at the track, to get the car up off the ground a bit to make it easier to work on, only looking for a few hundred millimetres(12in) or so. Yes I would put it on stands to do any work on the car because chances something bad would happen.I use something similar to LIFT my vee, but the base is WAY too small to support *WORKING* on it without additional stands. It's also pretty critical EXACTLY where the lift is placed. Gotta KNOW where that CG is.... and you can't CHANGE it much while in the air. Just taking a tire off could easily tip it off.... and you can't LEAN on the car either
Im looking for something easy to transport, say to use and light.
Don't know for certain, but seems like he's replaced the joints for the riser and brace with removable fasteners... possibly just bolts, I would think about converting to pip-pins for ease of assembly... did that to my folding Gyrodynamics quick-jack, love it.
Used clevis pins at joints of winch triangle so that it could be easily broken down. Also; didn't like the chain safety mechanism so made a removable triangular brace that keeps lift from folding in an emergency. Has the added benefit of increasing torsional rigidity while working on car.
I think this can be done easily with a floor jack and wood blocks or stands.
1) Lift the rear until the nose hits the pavement
2) Insert a "fulcrum"
3) Drop the rear and the nose should go up to about a foot
4) Insert front stand
5) Raise the rear and insert rear stand
Sometimes it helps to roll the front tires up onto 2"x4"s before starting.
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