Carb float

[DD16]

I've seen brass round floats used instead of the standard float. Where can I purchase them or do I have to find a brass monkey and turn on the charm?

[mikehinkle]

Brass floats were original VW and used only for a few years. They are rare and expensive. See if Dietmar has one available, he lists them on his site.
http://www.quixoteracing.com/parts.htm

[DD16]

Thanks Mike. I'll have to think about Dietmar when I have these types of questions.

[Hardingfv32]

A tip I got from B Neumeister. I found them on Ebay for around $30 for the kit. From India...good source.

CARBURETTOR CARB REPAIR OVERHAULING REBUILD SERVICE KIT MAHINDRA JEEP @ECspares

Brian

[Steve Davis]

I would like to add that there is NO COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE to using the brass float. I'd guess that 90% of the carbs in use today . maybe more.. use the standard plastic float .. inverted with a weight added to the (new) bottom to keep it from turning over during cornering. Once you get everything adjusted properly (which is also true of the brass float . it's NOT "autosetup"), they both work just fine. If you find a brass one for big money .. keep the plastic one and send your carb to someone that really KNOWS how to set it up correctly .. and buy something more worthwhile with the money. BTW.. I've also seen just as many failures (if not more) of the brass float as the plastic one. Most common failures for the brass one are fatigue.. a crack - the float fills with fuel and no longer closes off the incoming fuel needle OR the solder connection to the pivot bar comes loose and jambs the float in some fixed position. The most common failures of the plastic one are the 'glued-on' weight falling off and the the float turns over in the bowl and either no longer closes the needle or closes it permanently.

[DD16]

Thanks Brian and Steve. I don't know if we're thinking about the same brass float. I've seen a brass sphere used. Steve, I have no misconceptions. The engine and its ancillaries in my car will always be pro built. But the carbs are inexpensive so I'll toy with them and see how they work on the Dyno. I've run a couple of different classes over the years and the engines and trans were always pro built. But taking parts apart and seeing how they work helps me diagnose issues that may arise at the track. Thanks again for the info.

[Dietmar]

DD16:

Just to expand a little on what Steve posted... I have seen the brass sphere that you referenced. I have also seen some form of ping pong ball, plastic floats with parts of old film canisters attached, plastic with washers attached, even coins attached to the plastic float, anything to add weight and keep the float oriented. The original brass float ( which I do carry) was intended to be used in a version of the 28pci with three ribs in the bottom of the bowl. It also had the venturi fastened in the throat of the carb by a screw on the front of the carb. Having said that, the brass float will work in any 28pci but the float level has to be adjusted differently from the plastic. Although the arm that comes with the plastic float can be made to work with the brass, the brass float actually took a different arm .
As Steve said, no advantage other than the weight will not fall off a brass float.
Hope this helps.

Dietmar
www.quixoteracing.com

[DD16]

Thank you very much Dietmar. All information greatly appreciated.

[jphoenix13]

The round brass sphere float is made by Mike Palermo. I have one, works fine, but a bit heavy. Mine sunk last year when the solder joint the two halves cracked, but I had a spare. I so,Derek it back together, but still a touch over 9g, the desired weight.

Bottom line is, have a couple of spares, I’ve had three different floats crack and sink. Regardless of type, they all seem to work.