Is there a kit or drawings available for the modification? Scott Fairchild sent me pictures but a drawing would make life easier.
Thanks, Rob
Is there a kit or drawings available for the modification? Scott Fairchild sent me pictures but a drawing would make life easier.
Thanks, Rob
“Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty.” -Peter Egan
Because the Z10 is a "front steer car, getting a lot of Ackerman effect is difficult. When the car was designed, zero Ackerman was considered the hot lick. It is possible to build full Ackerman arm or even arms that give more than full Ackerman. The question is how much do you want to spend?
By definition, the Ackermann % will only make a noticeable difference as steering angle gets larger, >10 degrees or so.
However, initial toe in or out makes a difference at all steering angles, and has a much greater effect on initial turn-in. Toe out usually aids turn-in response, but, of course, can cause too much drag if it is large.
Dave Weitzenhof
What I found when it came to autocrossing with and without Ackermann was that,
Without Ackermann meaning if you drew a line through the outer tie rod and the upper ball joint Ackermann went to infinity behind my FF and my FF had front steer so this created front tire scrub/High slip angle ? "hard to push in the garage" Heated the front tire very fast but by the 3rd lap had under steer "over heated front tires"?
With Ackermann the common point hitting the middle of the differential made a big difference in turn in with very little toe out, even tire temp's front to rear, better to drive a FF in a autocross event.
To me if you are going to make your FF a dedicated autocross FF then more Ackermann would help but if your going to road race/track FF I would have less Ackermann for better track feel.
Ben
Last edited by CM/FFdriver; 03.07.17 at 7:54 PM. Reason: added
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