Those of you who have built your cars have learned many things that you would have liked to have known about before you started to build. How about some ideas of things to take pictures of, and/or to examine closely on a finished car that will help us who are about to start construction.
I know there are many issues spread thru this forum, but a compiled list of such would be quite educational and might save some of us grief.
Tom you can E-mail me with any question you have or call 706 543-1797 Extension 22. I have jig numbers for the suspension, a set up sheet and can provide you with any parts you might need. Thanks Kevin at comprent motor sports
Hello Tom;
Clean out everything. We have found metal in the radiators, the oil tank, the lines, and a ton of it in all of the transmissions that we have taken apart. I took the body work sides off the car and took everything out except the fuel cell. Start from there and you should have no problems.
The fiberglass piece that is above the aluminum splitter is fastened by rivets, we removed them and put in nut plates and then used screws from th inside cockpit floor to secure the piece to the lower frame.
You will notice that the shifter cable is a problem. We coated the header, put an SRF rigid heat shield between the header and the block, triple wrapped the cable in heat resistant silver reflective material and tied the cable so that it didn't touch any hot metal at the block.
Some guys have been through 3 cables already. We are still on our original. You have to go to great lengths to keep the cable shielded from heat and the post about rerouting a newer and longer cable is a great fix, but being from SRF, that is a modification that is not in the soon to be posted rules! Politics.....I think Keith Grant has a picture of our heat shielding.
On some cars, the bracket by the shifter handle that holds the shifter cable does not have secured nuts. If you should have to change a cable, it is impossible to get a wrench on the nuts between the body and the frame!! When you have the sides off the car, make sure your car has tach welded nuts so the bracket bolts can screw into them without the use of a wrench. Some one told me they riveted in nut plates there also.
You can call us for help if you need it. Kevin from Comprent has done a great job on the car also.
Mick Robinson
Best advice: be patient, those 12:00 nights can tax your patience.
The cable is of concern and I'm one of those guys who rerouted the cable, Jim "seems" open to these kinds of "fixes" as long as there isn't a performance advantage (the cable works great). Please note the quotation marks on "seems".
When I removed the cable bracket, I too lost the two nuts. I joined (welded) two bolt heads with a small piece of steel (using the existing spacer as a jig) then just put them through the bracket facing the driver and used small head nuts.
You'll have to cut a large section out of your seat to make the belts fit properly.
There's a hundred more things you'll learn as you go. Kevin has been very helpful as well as this forum.
Good Luck,
Scott Brickey
(860) 916-9852
Just a couple of things that may help.
1. Fuel exits the cell from the port in the front,next to the two wires. It goes to the fuel rail and returns through the regulator on the right side of the cell.
2. In the electrical harness, there is a ring terminal and a plastic push on terminal that are not currently used (alternator?,
we just taped them up and tied them out of the way.We suspect the cable marked "comm" is for use with the Data Ac system.
Sorry!! the fuel regulator is on the LEFT side of the cell..
JIM
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