Crossle 45 - Pulling enging and Transmission

[snettleship]

I was racing at VIR this weekend (3 beautiful days on a repaved track). During a feature race I was running very solid laps, finished 2th in FF. Noticed the oil pressure gauge jumping around. Pushed about 2 quarts through the oil tank breather. Since I bought the car in 2010 and done nothing to the engine (about 20 event weekends), I was expecting something would happen soon. To add to that, I have noticed some cracks in the Hewland 9 case so this seems a real good time to pull the engine and transimission and get the experts in the two fields to do the rebuild/repairs.

With that said, I've pulled a Kent block from a Lotus 7 but not from a Formula car. Any wisdom for pitfalls I can learn from (cheaply) from you folks? Thanks

[Daryl DeArman]

I was racing at VIR this weekend (3 beautiful days on a repaved track). During a feature race I was running very solid laps, finished 2th in FF. Noticed the oil pressure gauge jumping around. Pushed about 2 quarts through the oil tank breather. Since I bought the car in 2010 and done nothing to the engine (about 20 event weekends), I was expecting something would happen soon. To add to that, I have noticed some cracks in the Hewland 9 case so this seems a real good time to pull the engine and transimission and get the experts in the two fields to do the rebuild/repairs.

With that said, I've pulled a Kent block from a Lotus 7 but not from a Formula car. Any wisdom for pitfalls I can learn from (cheaply) from you folks? Thanks

Yes, don't let anybody touch that engine with an air impact because when they forget righty-tighty/lefty-loosie and "help" you by removing the starter they end up splitting one of the ears in half on the block. Not a Kent/FF specific issue, just a mistake I made that you can learn from for free

[pooch776]

Hi Scott,

Glad to hear you did well at VIR. Not exactly the best timing for repairs to the engine and gearbox!

I just re-cased my gearbox (cracks also) and rebuilt my engine. I am putting my engine and gearbox back in to get ready for the Jefferson 500!

You will need to remove the gearbox first without the adapter. Disconnect the axles outboard and remove the gearbox with the brakes assembled. The clutch slave cylinder assemble can be a PIA unless you are using an annular style. You have to pull the gearbox back about 3 inches and remove the clutch slave and bracket before the gearbox will come out. The engine comes out easiest if you remove the motor mounts, adapter, clutch and flywheel first.

Send me a PM with your phone number if you have any questions.

Cheers, Joe

Crossle 45f (#23)

[snettleship]

Thanks. I've started from the rear and trying to keep a good list of what I'm taking off and in what order. I've gotten to the point where I am removing the caliper and rotor. On the Left/Rear, I just needed to unhook a brake line and then 2 bolts that attach to the transmission case.

The Right/Rear on the other hand is where the shift linkage runs right under that point with several bolts there. Looks like these all must come out and maybe disconnect the back part of the shift linkage? Looks like it might come out ok but be rather fiddly to put back on.

[Steve Demeter]

Take lots of pics before taking everything off.

Pay particular attention to things like routing of hoses and the like that are not obvious when you have it in a pile on the floor ready to go back together.

[pooch776]

Yes, remove the bolt where the shift linkage attaches to the shift finger shaft and remove the single bolt that holds the aluminum bracket to the gearbox side plate. The shift linkage should go forward and down. I use a tie wrap to hold against the chassis and out of the way.

Cheers, Joe

[snettleship]

Got it, thanks. I now have everything disconnected (I hope) except for the transmission bolts and engine mounts that are connected to the frame. The plan is to get the engine puller attached, disconnect the two engine mounts, then the 2 transmission bolts. Also, the plan was to disconnect the transmission from the adapter rather than the adapter from the engine.

Will the transmission "simply" pull straight out from the input shaft? Thanks for the advice.

[pooch776]

It should unless the clutch slave and bracket are in the way as mentioned in my earlier post. They will not clear the upper cross member on the chassis.

Also you may need to tilt the back of the engine up about 3/8" so that the bottom of the gearbox case clears the lower cross member.

Joe

[sevenselans]

Make sure you disconnect the gearbox from the engine before you undo the engine mounts. If you install 2 longer bolts into the gearbox mounts, it may ease sliding the gearbox out.

[snettleship]

Thanks for all the advice. The gearbox and engine are out. A few surprises along the way including a stripped thread on a bolt. Now that I can survey this I'm already trying to envision what bolts/nuts/hoses to replace. I have a spare water pump belt that would probably make sense. Ohter words of engine and transmission wisdom as I send these away for refurbishing?

[Albatross]

Over the past many years, I have owned 3 Crossle(s). When time permitted and I had access to a good fabricator, I had the rear upper cross bar, (the cross bar that holds the two upper bolts supporting the gear box) of each Crossle-made removable. Sure makes removing the gearbox and/or engine much easier. A 16 inch section is removed and welded on each end a flange by which is through bolted (2 bolts each end) to the upright portion of the frame. If removing just the gear box, then just remove the rear anti-roll bar, disconnect the axles at the ends nearest to the gear box and whatever ancillary attachments that remain, and the two through bolts attached to each end of the removable portion. Use the removable portion still attached to the gear box as a handle. Or, to remove just the engine, remove the two through bolts at each end, remove anti roll bar, unbolt the gear box from the adaptor plate, slide unit back and pull engine straight up. Procedure(s) save time and makes control of gear box much easier. First saw removable cross bar on California owned Crossle 30 circa 1988. Sure, it costs a few bucks, fabricator should be able to make nice welds. Tracy Dye, D&D Fabrication, (253-435-1616) did it for me about 4 years ago. Archie did it for me around 1990. GL

[pooch776]

Do you have any photos of the modified upper rear cross member? I am interested in what would look like. Thanks, Joe

[BURKY]

Over the past many years, I have owned 3 Crossle(s). When time permitted and I had access to a good fabricator, I had the rear upper cross bar, (the cross bar that holds the two upper bolts supporting the gear box) of each Crossle-made removable. Sure makes removing the gearbox and/or engine much easier. A 16 inch section is removed and welded on each end a flange by which is through bolted (2 bolts each end) to the upright portion of the frame. If removing just the gear box, then just remove the rear anti-roll bar, disconnect the axles at the ends nearest to the gear box and whatever ancillary attachments that remain, and the two through bolts attached to each end of the removable portion. Use the removable portion still attached to the gear box as a handle. Or, to remove just the engine, remove the two through bolts at each end, remove anti roll bar, unbolt the gear box from the adaptor plate, slide unit back and pull engine straight up. Procedure(s) save time and makes control of gear box much easier. First saw removable cross bar on California owned Crossle 30 circa 1988. Sure, it costs a few bucks, fabricator should be able to make nice welds. Tracy Dye, D&D Fabrication, (253-435-1616) did it for me about 4 years ago. Archie did it for me around 1990. GL

+1, here is a picture of a modified crossbar. Makes life a lot easier...

[mblanc]

I'm already trying to envision what bolts/nuts/hoses to replace.

ALL of them.......

now's the time.

[pooch776]

Thanks Mike. This may become a future project. It would sure make removing the engine and gearbox easier.

Joe