Float level adjustment: HOW?

[RudeDude]

One remaining mistery: When you bend the tab to adjust the float height, do you have to remove the float assembly from the top plate?

And what tool can I use to bend the tab? I could swear someone mentioned the tool somewhere in this thread, but for the life of me, I can't find it.

[kea]

You can change it in place.
Needle nose pliers work here.
I've gotten away using a small screw driver

[RudeDude]

You can change it in place.
Needle nose pliers work here.
I've gotten away using a small screw driver

Thanks, Keith! Now I can work on it today.

[RudeDude]

Checked the float level today. The float height was 39mm and the drop was 50mm. I had the brass floats and they were in good shape. The both floats were semetrical in height with each other. I then removed the air correction jets and emulsion tubes. Removing the emulsion tubes wasn't easy. They were stuck in there pretty well. I ended up following the instruction on the HP Book to make about 3 threads in tube with 3mm tap and pull the tube free. Both jests and emlusion tubes were not clogged. I cleaned them with carb cleaner and compressed air and put them back. The primary jet was 165 and the emulsion tube F-50, and the secondary 160 and F-6.

I thought about checking and cleaning the main jets but chickened out when I realized that I hadn't done much research about the procedure. Decided to do it on another day, put everything back the way it had been, started the engine and it ran smoothly.

[Steve Demeter]

To clean the mains, just unscrew them from the bottom of the bowl (one at a time so as to make sure they go back in the same hole) and clean them just like the air correctors.

Another trick on the emulsion tubes is to use an easy out in vise grips.

[RudeDude]

Don't I have to get rid of the fuel in the bowl before I remove the main jets? Also the angle that the main jets are seated seems to require a special tool other than an ordinary screw driver. No?

[cgscgs]

You can use a turkey baster to remove the fuel but its not necessary. The angle of the face of the jets is just right for using a regular screwdriver. Use the screwdriver whose blade fits best in the slot, so as to not ding up the slot with slippage.

[Joefisherff]

At the front of the carb just below the inlet is a 5/8 or 11/16 nut, remove it and above it is a small filter. Remove it and clean it. It can become clogged with fuel cell foam and small debris. Next if your fuel pump has a screw on top, remove it to make sure the filter in the fuel pump is not clogged. It too can become clogged with fuel cell foam and debris. If you find either to be full of foam time to replace your fuel cell foam and flush the system fowards and backwards.

[RudeDude]

A little off topic, but when I removed the air filter (K&N cone) and its base, I noticed that each bolt and nut was sealed by shiny black rubbery looking stuff. I believe the stuff was meant to keep the nut/bolt from getting loose. The stuff was soft to touch and I scraped all off because I didn't want it to be sucked into the carb.

What is the stuff? Do I need to apply it to the air filter base bolts and the nuts to hold the filter in its place?

[Steve Demeter]

I use a dab of RTV on the bolts that hold the fiolter base plate to the carb because if one comes loose, it can get sucked into the carb.

[Rick Kirchner]

use locking nuts instead, or better yet, nutplates or inserts so you don't have to chase all the little bits.

[RudeDude]

Is it htis stuff?

http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...629690.1259010

[Steve Demeter]

Nutplates would be a trick since the K&N filter base plate uses 4 existing tapped holes in the Weber used on F1600 and F2000 engines.

But since they are thru holes, depending on the surrounding "stuff" one could get lock nuts on long bolts that stick thru the back side of the holes.

[Rick Kirchner]

If that's the case I'd keensert them. On my VD there's a fiberglass tray that's thru-bolted to those holes, and then I put nutplates in the tray, so the upper half of the duct goes on and off easy. I rarely need to take the tray off.

[Dick R.]

Bringing this back from the dead with a related question:

What is the racing float level for the plastic float?

I understand that the level for the brass floats is 39 mm.

However, the Pegasus tools are 41 mm (stock) for the brass and 35 mm (stock) for plastic floats. My float (and a spare) are brass but may need to change to plastic some day.

Also, for autocross is 39 mm maybe too high? (Ivey carb)

FYI my brass float was at 38 (or less) which may explain apparent slight richness. Fuel was near the top of the ramp.

Thanks,

Dick

[Albatross]

"engine stumbling coming out of the corners and back firing" Well...much had been suggested as to the proper fix. What, ultimately turned out to be the problem and how did you fix it?

[Modo]

at this point, it is incompetence in the sport, play tennis!!!!!