Tow vehicle question

[Daryl DeArman]

Agreed, Brian, and Tom for that matter

The whole reason we got off on this tangent is that some of us have several hobbies, different trailers and tow vehicles. One of the very few advantages of the surge brakes is the ability to not have to worry about tow vehicle and trailer brake wiring agreeing with eachother.

[brownslane]

We have a very similar trailer we use with out Atlantic/Sprint car/midget/drag car and have had great success with a 2006 Cummins 3500. Pulls like a dream, get about 26mpg alone, and no worse than 15mpg towing. Usually around 20-21mpg fully loaded. We have towed the same trailer behind a Ford 6.0 powerstroke dually and it was much worse than the cummins, as well as a hemi gasser and it was scary at highway speeds.

Electric brakes is a must in SoCal with a 28 footer.

Jimmy, I would LOVE to see a picture of an Atlantic/Sprint/Midget/Drag car. Must be a cool looking car!

[TimH]

Jimmy, I would LOVE to see a picture of an Atlantic/Sprint/Midget/Drag car. Must be a cool looking car!

Transformer.

[ianashdown]

Thanks to all the advice of everyone here I think I have ended up with quite a workable set-up. F350 7.3 Diesel 6-speed and a 28' x 8.5' 2 axle (10,000Lbs) trailer.

For my occasional use I think this will do fine. I did pass on the trailer with surge brakes even though the price we right and the condition for an older trailer was very good. What I ve ender up with is even better. I'd have liked three axle, but if you're not buying new it's tough to get everything you want!

The trailer has wood on the floor which is in good shape an very clean, but I think it should be finished in some way. I've worken in professional trailers that had hardwood floors and some that had the raise disc vinyl floor, both seemed quite nice. The vinyl looks like about a $500 investment. There are also some flecked vinyl tiles that are smooth and come in at about half the price. The other option would be to use a floor paint, maybe with some non-slip addative. I'm sure this would be less again.

Just wondering if anyone has any comments or suggestions for the flooring and any other upgrades that I could/should make. I will build in a bench, better lighting and maybe A/C (I am in California!) an awning or large EZ-Up is also in order.

Keep the suggestions comming, and thank you, you've all be so helpful!

Ian

[brownslane]

Ian, that sounds like a GREAT package. I have had built-in awnings and easy ups in the past; right now I have a 20 X10 Easy up and it is great! You need to fasten it down (some sort of weights at all the legs. I am thinking about a simple bolt-thru plate that will mount the easy-up to the side of the trailer so I only have three legs to weigh down. By the way, spare wheels and tie down straps seem OK. BE AWARE!! I have seen multiple awnings, nitrogen bottles, wheels, tires etc blow all over the place in wind storms....last year there was a big mess at RA at the Hawk across from us. Be aware of winds!

In my trailer I found a big genset out of a motorhome and installed that. If I had to do it again, I would probably just buy a portable Honda (they are the quietest) and use that instead. A generator is high on the "must-haves". I would build a simple bench across the front of the trailer and build in some under-bench storage (leave room for the generator) for fuel cans and the like. Get some 1/2 inch alloy angle and install it across the front of the bench; this will keep stuff from rolling off the bench top if the trailer is not totally level.

Ir the trailer has plywood walls, just paint them a couple of coats of real good (washable) paint. This will keep everything nice and bright. Also install fluorescent lights inside; it makes everything so much easier. I wire all my 110 to a breaker box; the box is connected to a heavy duty extension cord. If you have shore power, just plug the extension cord into the track outlet. If you have no shore power, just take the generator out to the front/side of the trailer and plug the cord in there. Simple. Wire a couple of outlets into the trailer....three down the side and three across the front. As well, wire an exterior outlet in close to the side door. You will need lots of outlets. The reason I wire the external outlet near the side door is because it is a lot harder to forget something plugged into the trailer and drive away...ask me how I know!

For my floor I used the cheapo vinyl checkerboard (looks like a checkered flag) over the plywood. Looks clean is easy to clean up, was less than $100 and, because it has no seams, no spills will get underneath it. That is important.

I have a ton of little "D-rings" mounted to one side of the trailer. I lash everything down against the side...like the toolbox, spare wheels, scales tables, the Easy up, etc....if it is not lashed down, it will beat itself (of the race car) to death on a road trip....

I have the required PitPal shelf on one wall, a clock and a cork board to pin up the supp regs and paper copies of the schedule. Those are on the inside of the side door so we all can see them from outside. I also have a white board inside the trailer so I can make "notes-to-self" there.

You will need wheel chocks, a floor jack, numerous tie-down straps, both the big ones for the car, and lots of smaller ones for all the "pit $hit"....I mounted a couple of U-shaped conduit supports (you know, that hold pipes in place) against the wall. Then, directly below each one, I screwed an aerosol cap (you know the thing you throw away off paint cans).. The U-shaped conduit bracket holds an umbrella...the cap on the bottom keeps the top of the umbrella in place. Carabiners (sp?) are great tools to organize extension cords, air lines, etc. Everything hangs on one wall, I try and keep the other wall clear so I can walk past the car when it is inside. A portable table is great for tools/water jugs/lunch. A hook to hang your driver's suit up. A shelf to safely store your helmet (altho you might prefer to lock THAT up in the truck}.


The possibilities are endless! Get a couple of GOOD 50 or even 100 foot extension cords. You can never have enough!

I built a storage box on the front of my trailer, using the dimensions of the tongue. I made it out of 3/4 plywood, then covered it with aluminum. I store the fuel tank for my genset, two 12V batteries for the lights, breaker box and radio in the bottom half, then the wheel chocks, a couple of orange construction cones, a couple of jack stands in the upper half.

Anyway, I only was gonna check my emails and here I am rambling on! Back out to the shop for me!

You made the right choice for both tow vehicle and trailer. You are gonna have fun!

Best, Tom

[ianashdown]

All great suggestions.

I have a Honda EU3000 that I'll be using, may build it in, perhaps on the tounge. Have to look at the load situation. Either way it will either be on the tounge or just behind the front wall. Maybe a 2' difference. Cooling and ventilation will be easier on the tounge.

Ian

[brownslane]

Ian be sure and get a good set of load leveling bars. Be sure and get the ones that match the weight of your trailer. They make a huge difference!

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-p...on-systems.htm

[ianashdown]

OK, so in preparation for trailering with my new toys I've been reading up on trailering safety, loading strategies, etc and have found some really good advice. One thing that has not been mentioned is the preference, or not, for loading the tow vehicle.

A fully loaded trailer trailer being towed by an empty tow vehicle seems not to be a good idea, from a stability perspective. If there there is space available in the tow vehicle would it not make sense to load it with a good share of the smaller heavy items?

I'd be interested to hear others strategies for loading their trailer and tow vehicles.

Thanks,

Ian

[Steve Demeter]

Just do not overload it.

As far as stability, do not forget that the tow vehicle will be heavy itself.

And a 20' or bigger trailer will try to steer the tow vehicle anyway. That is why you load it correctly, use load equalizing hitches and if you choose sway control.

How heavy are you talking.

If you put it all over the rear axle, you might end up with a nose high tow vehicle.

Keep everything as level as possible.

[wannabe]

If you have a painted floor, clean it with a pressure washer and sand it with 80 grit until smooth. Prime it with Kilz or similar product. Then paint it with Rustoleum grey enamel. On the first coat, sprinkle sand over the paint and, on the final coat, you can get a bag of those grey, black and white color chips at home depot to sprinke onto the wet paint. It really turns out good and is not nearly expensive as tile. It also hides stains well. The downside to this type paint is that if you put your car up hot, the next time you move your car the tires will pull up the paint where it cooled off. But I have screwed galvanized sheet metal under where the tires sit. It also helps me put the car in the same place each time.

After you get the floor finished, figure out where your cars sit in your trailer with the proper tounge or axle load on your vehicle and mark the positions of the tires on the floor. You'll need at least 2 1/2 feet of tracking on both the front and back side of your tires so you can adjust your load if needed. I used a chalk line and tape measure. Put your galvanized metal down where your tires sit and then put your tracking down.

I finished my walls with the white Rustoleum oil based enamel as well. It has worked out really well and is super easy to clean.

[ianashdown]

I'll be collecting my new (to me) trailer on Tuesday. It's quite a distance from home so I'll have about a 6 hour drive back with the trailer - empty. I've ordered an Equalizer hitch, but I don't think it'll be here in time so I was thinking for an empty tow a standard hitch should be OK. Is there anything I should do to make the two safe and painless. I'm wondering if I should put some weight in the front etc.

Apart from that I plan to check on the electrical connection, tire pressures and off we go! Anything I've missed?

Thanks,

Ian

[steve zemke]

Check for a spare tire, properly inflated, tools to change the tire, (jack and lug wrench, torque wrench to make sure the wheels are correctly attached and a grease gun if the wheels have EZ lube hubs. Air tank and tire pressure gage.Try and run the trailer level so you are not overloading either the front or rear axle. Good luck

[Brian]

Your truck will be fine with that trailer empty with just a ball hitch, it will tow just fine, at least mine does... Make sure the brakes actually work, that sort of thing. Have a nice ride...


Brian

[racerdad2]

Tire presses, wheel bearing grease, tights, elec brakes working/adjusted, proper tongue weight. Not too fast I'd mount the Honda gen on the tongue, if you store trailer in a secure location or it will get legs. Also, get a good hitch & wheel locks to slow down the thieves. Sounds like you got a great set-up !!!

[brownslane]

Make sure the truck and trailer are level. If your trailer is a tri-axle, it will NOT be able to adjust equal weight on each axle unless the trailer is level. This is important. If the trailer is low on the front (again, with a tri-axle) you will overheat the front tires....

Ya gotta make sure the brakes/controller are working. Please do NOT chance the drive home unless the trailer is level and the brakes work.

Re-torque all the wheel nuts before you leave; There is no guarantee the vendor has done this; and wheel nuts have a real common habit of parting company with the trailer....and the results are unpleasant.

ALWAYS do a walk-around the trailer/truck combo just before you leave. Look under both to be sure you don't run over anything on your way out. Check the doors to be SURE they are closed and locked. Put the 4-ways on in the truck, check the trailer to be sure the lights work on it.

I generally stop at least once after 50 miles or less....check the wheels for heat.If the brakes are dragging you might not notice it...but the friction will drive a lot of heat in the wheels...same deal if a wheel bearing is getting ready to seize. Check the tire temps...if a tire is soft or if the trailer is overloading one axle, tire temps will tell you.

I ALWAYS circle-check my vehicle whenever I stop (no, not at a traffic light )...just to check it all over. I have caught problems before they became dangerous more than once by doing this.

Set up your brake controller as soon as you drive away. The brakes should invoke as soon as you touch the brakes in your tow vehicle, and should assist the tow vehicle in stopping not doing all the work. If the trailer brakes "lurch" the tow vehicle as you come to a complete stop it is probably a little too strong. Test the manual override and be sure this will invoke the trailer brakes. Most modern controllers have a green light to show you there is continuity to the brakes and will change color to orange pr red when the brakes are in use.

Of course, check the tire pressures. Gotta have them nice and high. Trailer tires have a higher rating and require higher pressures than passenger tires. Keep them fully inflated to the high end of their recommended pressures. This will keep them from overheating on the road. THIS IS IMPORTANT.

Good luck and have fun!

Tom