Best motor home for towing?

[Hartley]

Hi Guys,

I have been looking for a motor home and 24 foot enclosed trailer to carry a FF. most of the motor homes have a 3500 pound towing limit. I picked 24 feet because I think that is the shortest possible to carry a FF and a pit car. If you look at the attached post this MH is capable of pulling a 28 foot trailer with a full load which I am sure far exceeds 3500 pounds. Is the 3500 pound limit set by the manufacturer a very conservative figure? Or is the class C capable of a heavier load because it is a Ford truck chassis? Obviously trailer brakes are going to help but the long overhang on the MH cannot be good for the frame with the trailer pin load so far back. I have read most of the old trailer towing posts and while there are a lot of opinions I did not get a definitive answer. I guess I could buy the Ford Tioga MH like the one in the post and beef up the trailer hitch as he did.

Any thoughts?

Regards,

Hartley

[Steve Davis]

Hartley,
I think that, in general, the MH towing limit is based on the FRAME and braking limitations. I have seen quite a number of MH successfully towing larger enclosed trailers, but all that I've talked to have reenforced the frame and added additional support for the hitch. The rear of the frames that I've seen are "extended" behind the rear wheels - I guess based on the fact that the rear is comparatively light relative to the overall load. The overlap is small and I have yet to see one that was fully welded. Usually bolted, or several 'tack welds' of only an inch or 2.

A secondary issue with most of the trailers that I've seen in that length range is that they are under TIRED. They also use tire sizes that can only be bought with speed ratings up to 65 MPH. And those ratings are NOT conservative. Try towing at 70 and you're in for trouble. When the 'gator' slings off, it causes all kinds of damage to the trailer (ask me how I know ). Whatever you do, make SURE you get 5000+ axles - the 3000 lbs axles/hubs/wheels will just NOT get the job done acceptably .. unless you carry practically NOTHING in the trailer.

My 24 weighs in at just under 7k (fully loaded) with dual 5k axles (I upgraded from 3.5k) and I still have trouble with tires (I now have 15" tires). If you can find one with 16 or, better yet, 16.5" tires, you can buy a decent tire for it. I use LR E rated tires (which are quite difficult to find) - I SHOULD be able to carry 2830 x 4 = 11320 lbs which means my tires are rated 75% higher than my load ... but they still blow out for no good reason.. and I tow at about 62 - 64 generally. I also carry TWO trailer spares. At least twice I have had a tire blow and take out the second tire on the same side. Once, the gator came around and simply took the valve stem out of the second one. The other time, the gator cleaned of a significant amount of the TREAD from the second tire - it still had air in it, but was too damaged to use for any distance. Changing trailer tires on the side of the interstate is NO FUN, believe me. Also, make SURE that you have all the jacks and tools to change them yourself unless you factor in an extra 8 hours to wait for a service truck.

I have a 36' Diesel Pusher - the quietest MH up front that I've ever driven. It is a dream to be able to ride and actually TALK to my wife as we travel .. and actually HEAR the radio or CD player. After 7 or 8 MH's from 19' to 27' - several class C and several class A - all with front engines, I decided to go for a DP - BEST decision I ever made relative to towing. They ARE more expensive to maintain and harder to work on, but it's worth every penny and hour to me. The DP also has HUGE air brakes and can actually stop itself and my trailer pretty well if the trailer brakes fail (a tire failure will likely also take out your trailer brake wiring ... I know all about that too ). All of my MH's have been older models. If you are buying new or near new, you might find a quieter ride up front.
YMMV.

You have probably read about MH's in general, but remember to watch those tires as well. 5 - 7 years is the general recommended replacement interval unless you drive slower than 60 MPH. No one that I know of has ever worn an appreciable amount of tread off a MH tire before it needed to be replaced. A tire failure on the MH itself can be QUITE catastrophic and $$EXPENSIVE$$. Those gators are REAL DESTRUCTIVE when they sling off.

Buy a MH with the longest wheelbase and least overhang you can find in the size you want. Longer WB means bigger turning circle, but you can deal with that more easily than a broken frame. If you haven't seen it, Glenn Cooper posted a pic here on Apexspeed a couple years ago when the hitch on his MH broke. Fortunately, he SAW it before the trailer went by. Always inspect the hitch and all of it's parts OFTEN.

Steve, FV80
BTW - nothing was attached...

[kgoertz]

I have already been down the road you are going and have done some of the research. You will find that in the smaller class c motorhomes 21 to 23 feet the chevy has more total weight capacity. 24 to 29 Feet the ford has more capacity if it is a E 450. Remember slide outs add weight and that takes away from what you can haul. Any of these units can tow a 24 foot trailer with a formula ford easily if you just beef up the hitch a bit. I settled on a 28 footer with a rear bed and no slide outs as it had the most carrying capacity.

Kurtis

[Josh Pitt]

i pulled with a class a deisel pusher.
class c wont do it.
you must use a load spreading hitch or it will be too much wieght for the chassis on most.
I had a used coach that was under $40K, pulled just what you are going to be towing and it was like it wasnt even behind me.

the MH was great, but the maintenence made it not worth it for me.
the thing would break just sitting in the driveway, and it was always expensive.

then there was the flat tire I got. guess how easy it is to change a tire on a class a rig?

i ended up selling the rig, and buying a dodge 35000 dually and have a cabover camper in the bed. this is everything a MH has, but w/o all the vehicle maintenence.
something breaks on the rig it can be fixed anywhere, by anyone, i have a spare tire that i can change out.
PLUS i use this to go camping in places where a MH could not go to.
I use a torklift hitch extension (do a search)for the extra length from the camper.
I also settled on the LANCE 1160 camper because it has a side door rather than rear, this allows me to load and unload easily w/o unhitching the trailer or climbing over the trailer tounge. the rig has been no issues or worries for several years now.


i found out that motorhomes are really cool, until YOU are the one who owns and repairs it.
mine was truley the "boat" of the highway. anything that broke it was "BOAT".........................Be Only Another Thousand to fix it

[swiftdrivr]

I have towed an 18 footer with an FF for years. First MH was used, I didn't keep tabs on tongue wt, and arrived at the track dragging the rear frame rails on the ground [rust]. Second was anew, short class C, which did the job for a decade, but the TW killed the rear suspension over time, even with a helper spring. Now I put tools behind car, have little or nothing up front [18 ft trailer apparently made by cutting 2 ft off a 20 and not re-balancing. TW near max EMPTY] Longer class C holding up well with airshock system, TW marginal but legal [no longer carry fuel x in FF tank, over axels.] Still love having the RV at track. Wife comes to races, dogs stay cool, I have clean toilet and don't have to leave my toys and find a hotel. The power for towing is adequate except going over the mountains at Knoxville, gas milage is AWFUL, but hotel savings offset that some. If you can affard a deisel pusher, all thuis gets better. Most will tow big wt, hold heavier TW, and some get better gas milage [but can't garage them, so shorter longevity if live in really hot or humid conditions. They are frequently cheaper now, on used market, than class C.

[Purple Frog]

I worried a lot about this in years past. (see many past threads on this subject. Well worth reviewing).
Ditto what Stve Davis said.

I have a 20' trailer, with FC, lots of spares, and a Yamaha Zuma scooter, my trailer weighs under 5400 lb. Tongue weight ~500.

Tow with a 32" Class A gasser Ford V-10.
The RV has a weight of 17,500 with a combined rating of 27,000 (because it is a stripper with no slides, etc)
Reinforced chassis, and reinforced hitch.
I replace the RV tires every 6 years.
I replace the trailer tires every 3 years.
RV stops better with the trailer than without.

[DSRDAVE]

The best MH for towing is the used one I have for sale. Seriously though a class C will be marginal at best !!! Most older class A's are not really sufficient either. A class A pusher with 325hp or more will do a good job for most. I do have a class 8 Freightliner with 430/470 hp for sale if you're serious about absolutely trouble free towing. Thx, Dave.

[Hartley]

I worried a lot about this in years past. (see many past threads on this subject. Well worth reviewing).
Ditto what Stve Davis said.

I have a 20' trailer, with FC, lots of spares, and a Yamaha Zuma scooter, my trailer weighs under 5400 lb. Tongue weight ~500.,

Tow with a 32" Class A gasser Ford V-10.
The RV has a weight of 17,500 with a combined rating of 27,000 (because it is a stripper with no slides, etc)
Reinforced chassis, and reinforced hitch.
I replace the RV tires every 6 years.
I replace the trailer tires every 3 years.
RV stops better with the trailer than without.

OK thanks Guys I will start looking for a 28-32 foot gasser with the big Ford engine. I have
Read that the 460 V8 might be better than the V10, any comments?

Also should I try to get the E450 chassis or are do all Class A MH's have this chassis?

[budawe]

What Steve has said is correct and spot on. So were the comments about maintenance. Given the fact that we have huge climbs out west, I sold the motorhome and went to a diesel pickup and saved a ton; even after buying hotel rooms.

A little known fact: if you violate the CCW, total combined capacity weight, you may find the insurance policy invalidated. You might be able to reinforce everything but the federally mandated CCW will prevail. It's all about stopping, not pulling.

Good luck, I still miss my MH at the track but not at the shop.

[Steve Davis]

I can't comment on the Ford Chassis, but in my limited experience the V10 is LIGHT YEARS better than the 460. The only 460 I had in a MH was an anemic gas guzzling HOG! Never owned a V10 myself, but Frog has one - he can tell you more about it.

Steve

[Daryl DeArman]

Both MH's I have owned have been FI Ford's w/4speed OD transmissions.

These two MH's were vastly different:

A) 24' class C with FI/460 no slides
B) 34' class A with FI-V10 two slides

The V10 may have more torque and HP than the 460 but given the relative size and weight differences between the 2RV's I can tell you that the smaller motorhome with the FI460 not only got better MPG while towing it would pull the steep long grades at a higher speed.

Now, my V10 is in a F53 chassis with a much lower rear gear, my only complaint is the high revs when towing (no OD) at highway speed and the resultant poor MPG.

I think the V10 would be the better option IF mated to a 5/6/7 speed automatic capable of towing in OD.

[racerdad2]

I'm a diesel fan. More up front costs, but higher torque & mpg. I pull 10k#'s with my old 7.3 F250 & get 12 mpg on level ground & 9 uphill. I chipped it & leave it in Tow mode all the time. Have never needed the two higher power levels... My next upgrade is a CAT or Cummins diesel MH... the 460 Fords guzzle gas... & the Frog posted about a load carrying thing between the trailer & MH. Very cool idea I forget the name. Kinda spendy...

[PMCC45]

I have been towing with a 35' RV gas 460 ford ,pulling a 28' two axle trailer since 2005. RV has slide out (really great at the track) the trailer carries (2) FM's, tools etc. weighs almost 10,000 lbs. The RV gets 7 mpg with trailer, w/o trailer or even if you drive it off a cliff. After many RV and trailer tire blow-outs I found my secret.... RV tires 16" pressure 65 to 70 lbs, trailer tires 15" 40 to 45 lbs cold.(yes they look low) Stay at or under 65 mph.....NO BLOW-OUTS in the last 5 years. I have gone from Atlanta to Mid -ohio, to Nashville, Savannah, Kershaw, Daytona, VIR.

[Amon]

Has anyone ever owned, used or towed a trailer with the enclosed living quarters
included with the std. section of a race trailer? Those trailers appear to be a nice
alternative to the MH / trailer option, and can be towed with a pickup etc.....

Thanks!

Mark

[cjahn]

I have a 32' tag with 12' LQ in the front... Its a beast to tow. (I wanted separate LQ so I could sleep in the trailer with the car inside and not get gassed)

contact me offline via email if you want to discuss.
cj

[Purple Frog]

I run my V-10 gas F53 in OD all the time. 87,000 miles

I had a 460 in a class C, Love the V-10 in the Class A much better.

7mpg, downhill, uphill, no trailer, trailer, A/C on, A/C off, off a cliff....

PMCC45 had a long trailer with built in quarters at the front. Ok, for one or two guys, but not a Motorhome in my wife's opinion. Also, any smell in the car part will get into the hotel part.

[Steve Davis]

I have been towing with a 35' RV gas 460 ford ,pulling a 28' two axle trailer since 2005. RV has slide out (really great at the track) the trailer carries (2) FM's, tools etc. weighs almost 10,000 lbs. The RV gets 7 mpg with trailer, w/o trailer or even if you drive it off a cliff. After many RV and trailer tire blow-outs I found my secret.... RV tires 16" pressure 65 to 70 lbs, trailer tires 15" 40 to 45 lbs cold.(yes they look low) Stay at or under 65 mph.....NO BLOW-OUTS in the last 5 years. I have gone from Atlanta to Mid -ohio, to Nashville, Savannah, Kershaw, Daytona, VIR.

Court,
Can you tell me exactly which tires you are using? Brand? Size? Radial/Bias? Load Range? Max Tire pressure on sidewall?
I'm DYING TO KNOW
I can't seem to get a season without at least one blowout - usually several more.

Steve, FV80

[Daryl DeArman]

I run my V-10 gas F53 in OD all the time. 87,000 miles

Good to know. I had heard/read so many issues with towing in OD I haven't been willing to do so. What year? Do you have a 4spd or the 5SP TorqShift trans?

[Mark_Silverberg]

Depending upon how much money you have to spend some of the used "Super C" motorhomes are now approaching the expensive but not horrible price range. They are on the Chevy Kodiak chassis/ duramax engine / allison transmission. Many come with a factory 10K hitch and the factory frame extends all the way to the rear of the coach.

I personally am still waiting for them to reach my price range - I suspect I will be waiting a while longer

[JohnPaul]

I had a nice 35' V10 funmover and it towed decent for smaller trailers (20-28') but was not as good as a diesel. I personally sold it and am in the market for a 48' trailer with living quarters that I can pull with my F350. The main reason is because once I was setup I was always trapped at the track without a ride to get around town.

[TimH]

the MH was great, but the maintenence made it not worth it for me.the thing would break just sitting in the driveway, and it was always expensive.

BTDT

[anthonywill3]

Has anyone ever owned, used or towed a trailer with the enclosed living quarters
included with the std. section of a race trailer? Those trailers appear to be a nice
alternative to the MH / trailer option, and can be towed with a pickup etc.....

Thanks!

Mark

I had a 28' which was 12' living and 16' garage, towed with 250 diesel. It was heavy so I wouldnt recommend towing with anything less than a 250/2500, etc. I could fit a 97VD, 4 wheeler, and everything else I needed. It was tight, but it worked. Ended up being too small LQ with the wife (and infant at the time). Ended up going to a 36' Jayco Seneca Super C, 2 slides, duramax 6.6 and Allison 1000 trans. Towed a 22' Alum. trailer with 2 FC's (stacker) with no issues. It is a Kodiak 5500 chassis. Avg about 10 mpg with or without trailer. I figure we were towing about 6k pounds when you figure weight of trailer, 2 FC's, spares, 6 sets of wheels, tools, spares, 2 pit bikes, etc etc. I would highly recommend this setup if its in your budget.

[PMCC45]

Steve..here you go.
RV tires are all makes on my motorhome, Michelin, Roadian, I must have 4 different brands. However they are all LT 235/85/R16 max. load at 80psi (written on the tire). I inflate them to 65 to 70 psi cold, do not go over 65mph.
Trailer tires are Maxxis Radial M8008 ST 225/75 R15, Load Range E, max. load at 80 psi cold (written on the tire). I inflate them to 40 to 45 psi cold (yes they LOOK low). The trailer tire is a tire/rim combination that I buy from a trailer dealer less than $100.00 and I found to be cheaper than purchasing a tire then getting it mounted.

***I hold my mouth to the left most of the time and keep my change in my right pocket.....so far no blow-outs !!!!!

[Steve Davis]

Thanks Court - those just happen to be the make (Maxxis) that I just bought 4 of. I'm a little leery of running pressures that low... but if it works. I've already proven that running the max PSI does NOT work very well :-(.

Steve, FV80

[racerdad2]

A buddy of mine has a diesel pusher, pulls a looong trailer. Car, stuff & a Jeep Liberty inside He just upgraded to a used Provost. Lots of underside storage slide-outs, pimped inside

[rv greg]

Make sure you do not get a V-10 built before 2000. The first V-10 were gutless. Make sure you check the build date on the chassis not the motor home. Motor homes can have a 1999 chassis but the title is a 2000.