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  1. #1
    Member Richard EVO's Avatar
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    Default Newbie to Trailering Questions?

    I just bought a Formula Mazda in January 2012, and currently store it at a shop at a racetrack. I do not own a truck and trailer, and in fact, have never owned a truck in my life--I have always been a sports car guy.

    I need to purchase a tow vehicle and a trailer. My questions are about the trailer. I want to get the smallest trailer that I can get away with, but that will fit my needs. I doubt my towing skills and don't want to deal with anything bigger than I have to. I also will have to rent a place store the truck and trailer because I don't have room for them in the garage of my condo, so the smaller the trailer, the smaller the rental space. I also would like to spend as little as I can, but don't want to buy a piece of crap.

    I will be transporting the FM, one or two extra sets of wheels mounted with tires, probably another 4 unmounted tires, and a relatively small amount of tools and spare parts. I definitely want an enclosed double-axle trailer.

    So what size trailer should I buy, and what extra features do I need? Steel or aluminum? What kind of brakes and accessories are essential?

    And does anybody in Southern California have such a trailer for sale?

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    Senior Member lancer360's Avatar
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    New or used trailer? Do you want to be able to stand up in your trailer so you can get out of the weather? I would probably look for a 8.5'x14' or 16'. They are reasonably small and shouldn't be too hard to find a 16'. You can pull it behind a newer 1/2 ton truck. The drag on a full height 8.5' is probably a bit much for an older 1/2 ton truck in my opinion. I toasted the tranny on my '01 F150 on a Charlotte to Detroit to Atlanta to Charlotte run. You could look at something a bit narrower like a 7'x16' if your car will fit (might need narrow transport wheels to make it work). If you are looking used, finding a reduced height trailer will be more difficult as they aren't very common. They will have a pretty good effect on increasing your gas mileage though.
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    Contributing Member flat tappet's Avatar
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    Wells Cargo makes a 16ft enclosed trailer that is low enough to fit in a standard garage. I had one for a Formula VEE that had tons of room to store spares in it. You really need an 8cyl truck to tow the weight. A half ton will do.

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    You are likely going to get plenty of responses suggesting a larger trailer (20ft+) as you will build up more spares and support equipment to take with you to the track over time.

    Having said that you can do it out of an 16' x 102" wide trailer. Inside box doesn't have to be 102" with fenders inside, but no 7' wide box with partial wheel wells inside.

    Go draw a 16' x 8' box on the ground around your car and then set everything you want to bring to the track around it. Jack, tool box, fuel jugs, ez up, chassis stands, spare wheels, etc. It will give you an idea of what you are working with granted some of the stuff can go up on the walls, but it's still protrusions you'll have to navigate around while loading/unloading car.

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    Senior Member lancer360's Avatar
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    Good point Daryl. Anything smaller than 8.5' wide should still have the wheels out at 8.5' to make it work. You can start with an empty trailer, but I think you will quickly find you will need a full width wall cabinet in the nose of the trailer for storing all the tools and spare parts. One alternative is to tow with a large SUV, van, or pickup with a shell to carry all the extras.
    Chris Ross
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  6. #6
    Member Richard EVO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daryl DeArman View Post
    Go draw a 16' x 8' box on the ground around your car and then set everything you want to bring to the track around it. Jack, tool box, fuel jugs, ez up, chassis stands, spare wheels, etc. It will give you an idea of what you are working with granted some of the stuff can go up on the walls, but it's still protrusions you'll have to navigate around while loading/unloading car.
    Good idea. But according to the Formula Mazda website, the car is 4' 3" wide. So why won't it fit in a 7' wide trailer? That leaves 1' 4.5" on either side of the car for the trailer wheel wells to impinge on.

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    Contributing Member Steve Demeter's Avatar
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    I think if I were you I would go measure the car myself.

    51 inches sounds rather narrow.

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    Senior Member lancer360's Avatar
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    Those cars are wider than that. F500/600's are 55"
    Chris Ross
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    Senior Member rv greg's Avatar
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    Measure your rear outside tire/rim edge to the other outside tire/rim edge dimension, unless the front dimension on an FM is wider?. That dimension will determine the minimum trailer width required if you do not want to change to transport/setup wheels. The critical dimension on the trailer will be openning at the rear ramp door jam at the narowest point and/ or between wheel wells inside the trailer (with a 7', they normally will prtrude into the box). Some 7' wide trailers have opennings up to 76", but some are as small as 68". Decide if you want to deal with the change to transport wheels as a routine arriving at and prior to departing from the race track. 16' is a very usable length, a V-nose makes it even more usable. The lighter and smaller the trailer, the smaller the tow vehicle you can get away with, but those trailers also tend to be more expensive. Low profile trailers sound good as far as improved mileage, but you want to be able to use it as a shelter at the track so being able to stand up is nice. Good luck with your search, it has been a nightmare for me to find an inexpensive trailer that accomodates a car with a 72" foot print at the rear -- and I have no desire to change wheels. PK

  11. #11
    Contributing Member BWC54's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard EVO View Post
    Good idea. But according to the Formula Mazda website, the car is 4' 3" wide. So why won't it fit in a 7' wide trailer? That leaves 1' 4.5" on either side of the car for the trailer wheel wells to impinge on.
    You need to think beyond just the width inside the trailer. My 7' trailer is 80" wide inside but the ramp doorway measures 72" wide and where the cables attch to the ramp door it measures 69" wide. So you have to consider how you're going to get it in the trailer. There's no way an FM measures 51" wide with race tires.
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    59 1/4" maximum track width....with 10" wide wheels you're probably very close to 70" depending upon offset utilized.

  13. #13
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    You might be able to make a 16 footer work with a FM, but in the long run I don't think you'll be happy. At that length, you'll need to put your tire racks on the sidewalls. fuel jugs go between the wheel well and door at the rear. If you load the car backwards, the wing will just clear the toolbox against the front wall. Your quick lift jack will be a bit of a challenge - they never seem to be placed easily. Trailer tires and wheels for the car will help with freeing up floor space. Then there's the canopy, chairs, cooler, etc. It won't take long to fill the bed of the pickup truck too.

    You really only need two mounted sets, your primary set and your backup set. If it looks like rain throw the rain tires in the back of the pickup, but it is SoCal, you'll know if it's going to rain or not (jan/feb/mar).

    Put a cross-bed box on the trailer tongue for wood, trailer accessories, etc. You'll need full-width cabinets across the front (above the tool box) for small spares.

    It's california, so you have a big-ass hill to climb to go everywhere except Fontana. Get a standard-duty 3/4 ton. It's the same physical size as the half ton, has better tires and better brakes. You'll want the 6.0L. I have a crew-cab 8.1L K2500HD I could make you a deal on since I now tow with a motorhome. It will pull the trailer right out from under the racecar.

    I haul my FC in an 18 foot Carson Racer and it would be doable in a 16 footer, but I really wouldn't want to deal with the jigsaw puzzle that it would entail.

    Lose the sports car. After driving the FM it's just going to be pedestrian. Besides, the truck is a better LA freeway machine anyway. You'll need air-tight security where you park that trailer because every gardner between here and TJ will be interested in it.

  14. #14
    Member Richard EVO's Avatar
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    I have been shopping for trailers. I think a 16 x 7 V-neck will do the trick. How do I tie the car down inside the trialer? Is there particular hooks or other hardware that should be installed in the trailer so I can tie the car down to them? Thanks.

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    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    Pay attention to the widths the guys are estimating above. Loading a car with only an inch on each side will make you hate life. I know at least one guy that had to withdraw from an event after hooking his leg on the door wire and flipping head over heels off the back of the trailer, separating his shoulder in the process. Consider that the extra width adds almost nothing to the weight......

    For tie downs, get tire blankets from Mac's tie downs. E track in the floor and on the walls is a great help unless you like installing flush D-rings.

  16. #16
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    There are many ways to tie down the car.

    I use D-rings (5000# rated) recessed into the floor. One in front and one behind each wheel. The bolts that hold the D-rings down go through the frame rails or steel plates under the trailer. Then i use big 3" ratchet straps over the top of each tire.

    I center the car over the trailer axles. One important goal is to maintain the proper tongue weight. So everything can't be just piled in the front of the trailer. I have fold down shelves over the rear tires of the car, a rack that crosses the trailer over the cockpit holding all the spare wheels and tires, etc, etc.

    When loaded my trailer weighs 5,360#, but only has 650# tongue weight.
    Last edited by Purple Frog; 05.13.12 at 7:17 PM.

  17. #17
    Grand Pooh Bah Purple Frog's Avatar
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    If you want to try E-track, this page will give you ideas:

    http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Van-Tr...raps-Tie-Downs


  18. #18
    Member Richard EVO's Avatar
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    This is what I am considering, the 16 x 7 (middle size) model in white. It says that the interior is 15'3' long and 80" wide. That seems like plenty big. The I believe the car is 13' long and 53" wide.

    http://www.haulmark.com/userfiles/HM_PPT7_SPEC(1).pdf

  19. #19
    Member Richard EVO's Avatar
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    ^^^ So I ordered that trailer and just need to buy a (cheap) used tow vehicle in the next few weeks. I think the trailer completely loaded will weigh less than 5,000 lbs., so I think to have a bit of a cushion I need a truck or SUV rated to tow at least 7,000 lbs. If anyone has such a vehicle for sale in California, let me know. Thanks.

  20. #20
    Senior Member lancer360's Avatar
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    I really hope the car fits. I'm 99% sure the 53" is just the width of the car chassis. I found a website that lists the track width is 59" front, 58" rear. Combine that with 8" wide front wheels and 10" wide rear wheels and the widest part of the car will be at the rear at 68" wide. What is the width of the door opening? You may have to use transport wheels to get it to fit.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daryl DeArman View Post
    59 1/4" maximum track width....with 10" wide wheels you're probably very close to 70" depending upon offset utilized.
    Quote Originally Posted by lancer360 View Post
    I really hope the car fits. I'm 99% sure the 53" is just the width of the car chassis. I found a website that lists the track width is 59" front, 58" rear. Combine that with 8" wide front wheels and 10" wide rear wheels and the widest part of the car will be at the rear at 68" wide. What is the width of the door opening? You may have to use transport wheels to get it to fit.
    The link that Richard listed was for a swing-door trailer, not a ramp door trailer. It will likely fit without much issue. However, less than ideal threading the needle around the ramp door cables. If it were me I'd get some of those swimming pool/floatie noodle things and slip one over each cable when the door is down just to limit the likelihood of me tripping over them or clothes-lining myself.
    Last edited by Daryl DeArman; 04.18.12 at 4:43 PM. Reason: Close-lined? Really?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Daryl DeArman View Post
    The link that Richard listed was for a swing-door trailer, not a ramp door trailer. It will likely fit without much issue. However, less than ideal threading the needle around the ramp door cables. If it were me I'd get some of those swimming pool/floatie noodle things and slip one over each cable when the door is down just to limit the likelihood of me tripping over them or close-lining myself.
    I am getting a very similar Haulmark trailer. The door opening is 75 inches, but the space between the cables is 72 and change. I really like the idea of using pool noodles. I am worried about close lining myself on those cables...

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    Quote Originally Posted by DougW View Post
    I am getting a very similar Haulmark trailer. The door opening is 75 inches, but the space between the cables is 72 and change. I really like the idea of using pool noodles. I am worried about close lining myself on those cables...
    Some of us learn how dangerous those are by watching someone else get clothes-lined, some of us have to do it ourselves
    Last edited by Daryl DeArman; 04.18.12 at 4:43 PM. Reason: "close-lined"? Really?

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    Member Richard EVO's Avatar
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    I haven't actually signed the paperwork and made the deposit on the trailer yet, so I can still change my mind. My mechanic is measuring the widest part of the car and getting back to me shortly.

    Car is 68.5" x 165". I'm happy with 80" wide interior.
    Last edited by Richard EVO; 04.18.12 at 2:26 PM.

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    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    have you looked at the Carson Racer series?

    Why are you going with a narrow trailer?

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    Member Richard EVO's Avatar
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    I ordered the 16x7 V-neck. The car will fit. I went with overkill on the tow vehicle, buying a 2003 Suburban from a racer buddy of mine. It has the 8.1 liter gas V-8, is set up to tow 12,000 lbs., and already has a brake controller.

  27. #27
    Senior Member chrisw52's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard EVO View Post
    I ordered the 16x7 V-neck. The car will fit. I went with overkill on the tow vehicle, buying a 2003 Suburban from a racer buddy of mine. It has the 8.1 liter gas V-8, is set up to tow 12,000 lbs., and already has a brake controller.
    Nice truck. the hardest part towing with that truck that big and a trailer that small, is remembering that you are towing your race car...

  28. #28
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    A not well disclosed issue that you will need to consider given the truck/trailer size differential:

    I've had tire failures on three sets on two different trailers. In a recent discussion on IRV2 and with Dave Weitzenhof, I found out that ST trailer tires are only rated to 65 mph, but if you over-inflate them by 10 psi, you can get 75mph out of them. Otherwise, you buy load range E LTs for the speed rating and live with the slightly less durable sidewalls.

    i had towed my new trailer with the RV for two seasons and no problems. Then there was a weekend dash to Tucson and back to pick up a FF and when I got home the tires were trashed.

    So use the cruse, or whip out the checkbook earlier than expected.

  29. #29
    Member Richard EVO's Avatar
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    Maximum speed in California towing a trailer is 55 mph and I can't afford another point on my license so I NEVER drive more than 5 mph over the limit on highways and public streets. Save the fast driving for the track.

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    Towing in California, while on a freeway you are only allowed on the two right lanes.

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    Not to mention the increased fines in CA effective JAN 2012 for travelling over 55 in a 55 zone.

    56MPH is now the same fine as 70MPH ($214+ court fees)

    and

    71MPH is now the same fine as 80 ($328+court fees)

    Now getting ticketed for 60 in a 55 costs more than driving while texting, failing to wear your seat belt. Same fine as running a stop sign. Go figure, clearly it's about revenue generation and not punishment fitting the crime.

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    Senior Member Neil_Roberts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daryl DeArman View Post
    Now getting ticketed for 60 in a 55 costs more than driving while texting ...
    It's also a strong incentive to hire a lawyer and contest every ticket.

  33. #33
    Member Richard EVO's Avatar
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    It's all coming together for my first open wheel race weekend. I'm driving the Suburban to work early in the morning on Thursday. Then leaving at noon to drive to Simi Valley to pick up the new trailer with tire racks and etracks installed. Then driving to Willow Springs Int'l Raceway where the FM is stored, and load it up. Car all serviced and ready to race with all the race stickers and numbers (except SCCA stickers, which I will get on Friday). Then trailer to Buttonwillow Raceway Thursday night and stay at motel (3 nights). Friday is get annual SCCA tech for car and gear, and run open test day to practice since I haven't been to Buttonwillow in this car before. Config. is #14-CW, same as race weekend. Then practice, qualifying and race on Sat. and qualifying and race on Sun. I will have a mechanic with me for trackside support all 3 days, and I rented a garage for the 3-day weekend. Sun. race ends at 2:05 p.m. Drop the car/trailer at WSIR and drive home.

    This is pretty exciting, after the 8 1/2 years of running open track in modified street cars that I drove back and forth to the track stuffed full of wheels, tires, and tools. I also raced a Miata with SCCA and NASA for 2 years, but I stored it at a shop at Buttonwillow Raceway and paid them for transportation to other tracks and trackside support. I avoided buying a truck and trailer that whole time. A new day.

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    Contributing Member TimH's Avatar
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    That's a busy few days, but it sounds like you're doing everything right.

    Have FUN!
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    I'm trailer shopping for 20 footer, prefereably pre-owned. For the past few years, I've been sharing a torsion suspension trailer, but need my own. Is there a big difference between a torsion suspension and leaf spring suspension trailer? Leaf springs are more abundant on the pre-owned market and a bit less costy, but have heard mixed reviews. Thoughts?

    Thanks in advance.

    Feff

  36. #36
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    I've had both, not problems associated with either. the torsion trailers can sit a little lower, making it easier to load.

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