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  1. #1
    Senior Member mwood's Avatar
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    Wanted To Buy Van Diemen RF88 rear ARB pillow blocks

    Not sure if "pillow block" is the correct term in this case, but I'm looking for the aluminum blocks which contain the bearings and locate the rear anti roll bar. If someone just happened to have them sitting around and wanted to sell, that would be great. Maybe more likely someone could help me out with dimensions/measurements so I can make my own?
    Thanks-Mike
    PM or email works.

    Pic of another RF88 giving detail:

  2. #2
    Senior Member mwizard's Avatar
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    Mike,
    Can't help you unless you have a LD200 trani. Before I read the post I looked at the picture and thought "you got a great car". I hope yours is as nice.
    Mark
    1990 Van Diemen, the Racing Machine, CM AutoX, 2016 Frontier
    You can try to make a street car into an autocrosser or you can do a lot less work and make a race car into a great autocrosser

  3. #3
    Senior Member mwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwizard View Post
    Mike,
    Can't help you unless you have a LD200 trani. Before I read the post I looked at the picture and thought "you got a great car". I hope yours is as nice.
    Mark
    While the pic I used is a nice car, mine's nicer...looking, anyway. We'll see if we can make it go fast.

  4. #4
    Member Locked's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwood View Post
    While the pic I used is a nice car, mine's nicer...looking, anyway. We'll see if we can make it go fast.
    Mark, I believe my '85 casting is the same as yours. At least it looks the same as pictured.

    The dimensions of mine are:

    top piece: 1/2" x 2" x 1 1/4"
    bottom piece: 1/2" x 2" x 2"

    The bolt holes are drilled 1 1/2" apart.

    A picture of mine...
    Nick M.
    Driving - your car if you'll let me.

  5. #5
    Senior Member mwood's Avatar
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    Thanks, Nick. Your dimensions are really helpful, as I now have the stack height. The one piece missing is the bearing size...any thoughts?

    I also noticed that the upper arms/rockers on the RF85 are different, as the RF88's have two bolt holes: one for the upper shock mount and one for the ARB link. Slight change?

    btw, my car is pretty clean, but your's is sanitary!!

  6. #6
    Contributing Member Dick R.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwood View Post
    Thanks, Nick. Your dimensions are really helpful, as I now have the stack height. The one piece missing is the bearing size...any thoughts?

    I also noticed that the upper arms/rockers on the RF85 are different, as the RF88's have two bolt holes: one for the upper shock mount and one for the ARB link. Slight change?

    btw, my car is pretty clean, but your's is sanitary!!
    Mike,

    If Nick doesn't provide the bearing info before this weekend I'll dig through my "stuff" and look for bearing part numbers, etc. I "think" I replaced them 20 years ago but don't know until I start looking.

    My 85 mounts the ARB like Nick's with the shock and ARB using the same bolt.

    Dick

  7. #7
    Contributing Member Dick R.'s Avatar
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    Mike,

    Bearing info for my 85 VD:

    NTW 608Z

    22 mm OD
    8 mm ID
    7 mm width

    http://www.ntnamerica.com/products/b...id=RBMBB&ctc=B

    All my ARB's have an 8 mm OD "spigot" that inserts into the bearings.

  8. #8
    Senior Member mwood's Avatar
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    Thanks, Dick.

    Seems all I have left to do is make the rear pillow blocks, press in the "spigots" on the rear bar (front already has them), get the bearings/press 'em in and bolt it together. Much less work than I thought I was going to have

  9. #9
    Contributing Member Dick R.'s Avatar
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    Mike,

    More pics: Note the frame picture shows the front bar AND in the background the rear bar on the rear casting.
    Last edited by Dick R.; 01.07.12 at 3:17 PM. Reason: Add Picture

  10. #10
    Senior Member mwood's Avatar
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    Thanks very much for your help!

  11. #11
    Member Locked's Avatar
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    Sorry, I haven't had access to a computer since I posted... I didn't mean to leave you hangin'. Dick, thanks for answering.
    Nick M.
    Driving - your car if you'll let me.

  12. #12
    Senior Member mwood's Avatar
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    No worries, Nick. Thanks for the info you've given.

    Another request: I only have one set of adjustment sliders. I'm going to email the PO, but if he doesn't have the other set, if someone had some gathering dust that they'd part with it would save me the hassle of making them...unless there's a US source? I'm not keen on buying something so simple in the UK and paying all the "freight" to get them here.

  13. #13
    Contributing Member Dick R.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwood View Post
    No worries, Nick. Thanks for the info you've given.

    Another request: I only have one set of adjustment sliders. I'm going to email the PO, but if he doesn't have the other set, if someone had some gathering dust that they'd part with it would save me the hassle of making them...unless there's a US source? I'm not keen on buying something so simple in the UK and paying all the "freight" to get them here.
    Have you emailed Simon at Universal regarding part cost and freight?. When I bought A Arms Simon discovered a much less expensive shipping broker that was FAST.

  14. #14
    Senior Member mwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dick R. View Post
    Have you emailed Simon at Universal regarding part cost and freight?. When I bought A Arms Simon discovered a much less expensive shipping broker that was FAST.
    I did email him to get a quote on: pillow blocks, end links and adjustment sliders.

    It may make sense to pay up for off the shelf, the more I think about it. Between figuring out exactly what I need (dimensions, materials etc), imposing on a friend for use of his shop and equipment and then the actual time involved in turning this stuff, I may be ahead purchasing.

    EDIT: I went through all of the parts and options today. The front is basically done, I had the two pillow blocks and the right bearings, now all I have to do is make the links. I've also ordered some 3/4' X 3/4" chromoly bar to make new slide adjusters.

    The rear is going to be more interesting. The bar has been drilled for dowel pins, but it was drilled with a Q bit, which is somewhere between 8mm and 9mm (.331, to be precise)...so, the 8mm id bearing won't work. I've ordered some 8.5mm hardened rod and a 9mm id bearing. The rod will press fit in the bar and then I will make a .001 sleeve. If the math is right, that should be just about right. Rear links will be very easy and I'll use slide adjusters that I make with the chromoly.

    At least now I know what direction I'm going and I've already dropped my order with McMaster-Carr
    Last edited by mwood; 01.08.12 at 11:48 PM.

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