As my last post states - we just purchased this car. I can't seem to find any posts that reference the setup information for this car.
Any help/links/book references would be great!
Thanks
As my last post states - we just purchased this car. I can't seem to find any posts that reference the setup information for this car.
Any help/links/book references would be great!
Thanks
Starting points:
Front toe = 1/8" out
Rear toe = 1/8" in
Front camber = 1 deg. neg.
Rear camber = 3/4 deg neg.
Front ride height = 1.5 "
Rake = 1/4 to 3/8"
Front caster = 3 to 4 degrees
Front tire pressure 13 lb cold
Rear tire pressure 15 lb cold
All subject to change once you start driving the car.
Purp,
Thanks! How do I do the measurements - i.e. is their a 'dummys guide' to this?
Buy all 5 Carroll Smith books and start reading.
Put Carroll Smith into the search at Amazon.com
April 17 and 18, ICP is holding a seminar at San Jose. Best $300 you can spend in racing.
Frog:
Do you think the same starting points settings you referance in you previous reply would also be a good starting point for a FF1600 (VD-RF-85).
Also, I've seen the FF world split between opinion on wither front should be toe-in or toe out. Most of my fellow FF racers lean towards toe in.
AMBROSE BULDO - Abuldo at AOL.com
CURRENT: Mid Life Crisis Racing Chump/Lemons Sometime Driver (Dodge Neon)
CURRENT: iKart Evo Rotax 125 Kart
GONE: CITATION 87/93 FC - Loved that car
GONE: VD RF-85FF , 1981 FIAT Spider Turbo
Brent, The Frog won't "steer" you wrong. He's Toad-ally awesome.
Scott Woodruff
83 RT5 Ralt/Scooteria Suzuki Formula S
(former) F440/F5/FF/FC/FA
65 FFR Cobra Roadster 4.6 DOHC
I'd venture to say that you could start out with the above settings for any mid-80's UK design and be in the ball park.
As you get faster (i.e. stiffer) you'll probably be able to go lower in ride height. And, as you get faster depending on whether you are on bias or radial tyres, the camber will need to be changed to keep the best footprint on the ground.
I use toe-out on the front for stability under threshold braking, and a bit more snap on turn-in.
For beginners we usually put a bit of toe-in on the rear to limit the rear steer. As you get faster you may find that no-toe or even toe out on the rear is best for certain circuits. But I never send a rookie out with rear toe-out.
Years ago Pat Prince told me the front caster could almost be anywhere from 0 to 10 degrees, as long as both sides were the same.
Bump steer on the front is a real nice thing, but that's another complication to throw in on a guy just looking at a new car for the first time. Spend the weekend reading Smith's books. [img]smile.gif[/img]
PF is providing great advice and to add to that I would suggest you contact Keith Averill of Averill Racing Stuff - Madison Hts, MI for parts and advice - I would say he is Mr Reynard and either has the bits and pieces or can make the bits and pieces and he can tell you how to properly put things together - He also can make old Crossle 63F's go fast as well...
David Keep
Thanks again to everyone [img]tongue.gif[/img] This site(members)are awesome, when I get enough under my belt I'll return the favors!
Bad news-- big puddle of oil under the F/C
What should I hope for..
Hope for a loose hose fitting.
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