A few months ago I read Jesse's idea about routing the excess pressure oil from the bypass valve to the dry sump's remote oil tank. The main benefit is the scavenge pump has less volume to keep up with. Seemed like a pretty good idea, later confirmed by George Dean.
While trying to think of a way to put the Kawasaki bypass valve outside the engine, I came up with an idea that I think is good, but have not been able to test it to confirm.
I'm using an old Mororso in-line screen filter as a housing for the Kawasaki relief valve. I removed the screen and inserted the Kawasaki valve (along with a few modified pieces to keep it all in place).
My current problem is, my test results have been disappointing, and I'm not sure if the valve/housing is the problem, or the way I'm testing it. A third possibility is that air behaves differently than oil.
I add a slight bit of air pressure (~30 lb.) and it quickly bleeds off. I was hoping the valve would hold that pressure, then I would steadily increase the pressure until it started bleeding off (around 60 lb.?).
Attached is a picture of the remove in-line valve set up, and of my test set up.
Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.
PS. My engine is together, and since I wasn't sure this remote set up would work, the internal valve is shimmed with two AN washers. The external is shimmed with only one - the idea being the external valve will open before the internal. For instance, it may open at 55 lb rather than 65 (WAG). I did that so I could just cap off the external valve if this external experiment didn't work.