Wiring Question

[Brands]

Can anyone point me in the right direction as far as wiring an 05 GSXR 1000 is concerned? I have the bike loom and all the switches in the car but I've never attemted wiring before - I just don't trust myself! Is there someone local in the Atlanta area that could do it for me? People have said it's really not that hard but nevertheless I'd rather have some one who knows what they are doing do the job!
Thanks!

[Jay N]

George Dean does harness mods to make them work in a car.

Thanks ... Jay

[VehDyn]

I had Dean do mine as well and did a good job. The Stohr NA guys are in your area and have harnesses modified. You can probably call them.

[formulasuper]

I did the wiring harness diet when I installed the Busa engine in my RT5 last year & it works fine. However, I spent my last 10 years as an aircraft avionics tech on the latest C130J with all the high tech systems. I would do your's if I had the time but I'm pretty busy building my FFR Cobra Roadster. Probably best to send it out to a pro.

[cparsons]

it really isn't that hard, just go slow (did I say that?) and be methodical. start at the motor with the existing loom 'cause most of that just goes back where it came from. the wires going to the kill switch, starter, etc will be too short though. that's when you get creative. a suggestion though, avoid just crimping terminals or splices, use solder and some shrink tube. and never use a smaller grade of wire than the existing one, same size or slightly larger. you can do it and save yourself some money. people who play with the invisible, magical monster called electricity ususally aren't cheap. but what part of a racer is?

[Wee Bobby]

that's when you get creative. a suggestion though, avoid just crimping terminals or splices, use solder and some shrink tube.

I thought the current wiring philosophy was not to use solder/shrinktube because the flux is hard to completely remove and will eventually corrode the wire. Solder also makes a rigid joint which is susceptible to breakage due to vibration.

Am I out to lunch?

Wee Bobbie
Haggis Racing

[ian Staples]

Hi I prefer solder and shrink tube but that is MY preference. The wiring is not hard to do. Your suzuki agent will probably have a wall poster size wireing diagram of just the injection/motor/starter and I'm sure its in the manual as well. these are worth there weight in gold as they only have exactl ywhat you need to run the engine and not lights etc. The big rules are 1. do it exactly to the diagram. 2. always use the factory color wire NEVER change color ( if you are extending) because in a fault finding situation you will be completly lost. 3. one wire at a time. 4. open up the tip switch and lock it in the upright position ,you can't just do without things like this as the computer on start up looks for all of the components and they send a message back to the computer to say "Hi i'm here" so if the components have been removed the computer may go into a fault situation and not start Do not be scared as this is not hard at all aslong as you follow the rules and TAKE YOUR TIME!! oh and use the factory plugs and buy the proper brass spades to fot them. If I can be of any help do not hesitate to ask .
PLEASE NOTE; IF YOU ARE A COMPLETE IDIOT WITH LOW WORK STANDARDS DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME !!!!
Regards Ian.
irstaples@clear.net.nz

[formulasuper]

I thought the current wiring philosophy was not to use solder/shrinktube because the flux is hard to completely remove and will eventually corrode the wire. Solder also makes a rigid joint which is susceptible to breakage due to vibration.

Am I out to lunch?

Wee Bobbie
Haggis Racing

Wee Bobbie, You are correct. That's whay aircraft use crimp splices. On external wiring, such as on landing gear switches, etc. that are exposed to the elements they use waterproof crimp splices that have heat shinkable sleeves over them. Once they are shrunk with a heat gun they are good forever.

[Brands]

Thanks for all the help! I'm attempting it myself and all seems to be going well so far - I've even had the dash light up and not catch fire.

Thanks again

[cparsons]

wee bobbie and scott, I have always soldered my wire splices if I can't avoid them altogether, and have never had one break. modern fluxes are water soluable and wipe right off with a damp cloth, no lead in the solder anymore, etc (BTW - NEVER wipe a hot connection, wait for it to cool) I failed to mention that I have mil spec solder certification for longer than I care to admit. A splice done correctly will not break, or at least never have for me, and ain't supposed to. I have seen crimped splices come apart. But not the aircraft ones. I will look into those for emergencies just in case I outlive one of my splices!
How old is that "current wiring philosophy" anyway? :>)

[ian Staples]

Hi, me again , I would never argue against anyone or anything who uses aircraft approved methods and equipment. They ARE the best as you can not pull over to the side of the road and call for help when your aircraft stops.
But the average automotive type crimp type fittings we get here in new Zealand are not that flash . If I had aircraft fittings AND matching crimping pliers I would use them no worries at all.
I'm interested to know about the flux you guys are talking about ,is it the acid liquid type ?? as I use resin cored electronics type of solder and as far as I'm awear it dosn't corode, if it does all of my projects I've built over the years are going to start giving problems very shortly !!!!
Regards, Ian.

[Stan Clayton]

Ian, our auto-type crimped connectors are no better than yours sound...unless you have "Lucas - Prince of Darkness" connectors.

Personally, I too solder with resin core electronics solder with outstanding service.

Cheers! Stan