Plumbing questions

[emotepix]

Hello All

(Yes, I've started to work on the car...)

All questions refer to a VD RF86 FC, stock so far.

Assume I'm working with all the Carroll Smoth books and the Pegasus, Earl's, and all the other catalogs Smith suggested, also the Ivey video, the Sports Seen UK Prep video and pretty much every published work on FFs (because I am):

a) the standard fuel pump - seems to work, any reasons to upgrade/replace?

b) 1" ID, 90 degree elbow (bent) radiator tubing - anyone suggest a place that supplies decent hosing that has more than 4" legs on either side of the bend? (most of the sources I've found only go up to 4" either side, and I need at least 8" legs;

c) brake lines - is there any percentage (either way) in installing valved quick disconnects (Jiffy-tites) in these lines so when you break the car in half (i.e. unmount the engine) all the plumbing can come apart without being disturbed?

d) still on the brake system, I've seen cars with fore-to-aft brake lines out of hard tubing, and others with Earl's or similar braided pipe going the whole length. Any plusses or minuses?

e) cooling now - which pipe clamping system is better, assuming beaded tube ends - lined hose clamps, or the Oetiker clamps? (Pegasus catalog p.76)

f) brakes - any easy way of telling an LD20 apart form an LD19, aside from caliper diameter? (which requires getting to the calipers to measure them) And any comments about resurfacing the stock rotors against any new and improves ones currently available?

g) carbon kevlar pads from the get-go?

I have a ton more but that's more than enough for one post!

Thanks in advance

Cheers!

[Rick Kirchner]

a) Sometimes an electric pump will make it easier to pull the engine. They make it easier to start when the bowl's dried out. They are frequently another electric doo-dad to fail. Mine's never failed electrically but the ears have broken off due to vibration.

b) If you can't find a fabricator in Sherman Oaks try Victor Herfeldter in Riverside

c) You'll probably disassemble the car a bunch in your first couple of seasons, so if you have the budget, the dripless connectors would be handy at the back of the car, but not really all that necessary.

d) Hard line is nice and light, but usually requires bulkhead fittings and such to secure it, takes some talent to get the bends right, is hard to find in nice, straight lengths long enough to do the whole job without joints, and you have to get the flares right. Hose is heavier but easier to fabricate and route around the car.

e) For connections requiring disassembly, you can't use Oetiker clamps. If you have easy access and frequent disassembly, use worm drive clamps. Otherwise, use those maddening spring clamps we all gripe about on street cars. They really work.

f) LD19 pads are much smaller

g) personal preference, see the various posts made over the past year. But find out what has been used on the car before changing.

Drop me an E-mail with your phone number and a time to call and we can chat as long as you like.

[rickjohnson356]

A. I use stock, no problems yet, no chance of electrical failure or mounting issues.

B.I use NAPA hoses & carry spares. We only put 1-1/2 hours per weekend so maybe 10-12 HOURS a YEAR. Can get replacement at any local NAPA when at a racetrack (if you forgot your spares. Use worm screw with hex head (usually 5/16" socket. so you can use ratchet to tighten quickly as part of pre-race prep. Poke around NAPA catalog for the dims you need. I found a 90 degree el hose with 1-1/4 on one end and 1-1/2 on other as needed ofo my C45. can cut in half as needed for eiher size.
Put the stickers from the hoses in the 'water' section of the 3-ring binder you are creating as you build the car. (You ARE creating one, aren't you? ) that way a crew member can go to town to get the hose for you, while you fix the other stuff that broke in the shunt you just had.

C. my opinion: NO to dry-break: another place to leak or be hard to get back together at the track when in a hurry.

D: I use braided hose at front (from mc to caliper) no extra joints to leak. solid from front to a tee at the rear end then braided to each caliper.

E: see B

F. ld-20 is bigger caliper. you will recognize after you have seen them a few times. We went with new hats & rotors from TDI rather than try to find esoteric 'fiat' or whatever custom rotor used at factory the week they built our car. Now we just have to swap a known, easily obtainable item when we need to . expensive to do the first time but pays off in long run. only have to do conversion one time (for each end of car). So far we have only done fronts this way. will wait to do rears this winter as part of upgrade program.

G. don't know

NEXT person's opinion please.....

[EYERACE]

a] upgrade if u like to make your life more complicated...the norm will work for all the rest of us but if u like making life more complicated than necessary - knock yourself out
b] -
c] do it - what a nice idea
d] non- hard.......why make life more complicated
e] no opinion
and that's as much of the alphabet eye no

[Tim FF19]

I have used electric for about 5 years now and would not go back to mechanical. So much easier to start the engine + clearance. My 2 cents....

[Brian]

A - electric makes starting the car a ton easier - nothing like not worrying about priming the pump. More or less reliable - I've had both fail. Toss up.
B - make/buy an aluminium tube (Burns Stainless) and use two straight connectors.
C - High quality quick disconnects work fine, I've used them in rear brake and clutch.
D - Hard lines are harder to make, lighter, arguably better pedal feel, add potential to crack from fatigue/vibration, and are less expensive. Flex lines are easier to make and install, have great pedal feel, will last twice as long as you own the car, can be re-fitted infinitely. Neither is a bad choice, I understand that pro teams now use -2 flex line almost exclusively, do use single flare AN tube nuts and sleeves on the hard line if you go that route.
E - They all suck, but don't use Oetikers on anything that isn't permanent. I kind of like the spring clamp idea but haven't tried it yet.
F - 20's are markedly larger all over than 19's. You could try looking at the part number, I guess.
G - Use the best pads you can get from the get-go, use the pads you intend to use long-term from the get-go. I use new discs when I change pad types, or at least make sure the surface is virgin.
H - Ask lots of questions, even if you think you know the answer. Saves lots of money and time long-term.

Brian

[ZEKESPEED]

Do Not Use Jiffy-Tites on your brake system as they are not a 0 inclusion type quik dicconects. You would need to use a bayonet style Staubli or comparable 0 inclusion QD. Very expensive!