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  1. #1
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    Default RF99 Cockpit input...

    howdy all
    Hoping to get some input. About to do a bead seat, but curious.
    is this small tunnel area just below the knees, supposed to be this snug/tight?
    I'm able to bring my pedal box forward, but not enough to limit how far I have to go forward.
    I'm only 5"9" and I am not that big in my legs/quads.
    If that is what it's supposed to be, so be it!
    THX
    SD
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  2. #2
    Classifieds Super License BeerBudgetRacing's Avatar
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    You have a gap between your knees ! Yeah - they are narrow.

    You probably won't get any seat padding into the area.

    I recommend some small slightly curved aluminum pieces riveted to the sides to help spread the pressure against the outside of your legs. Makes a big difference having your legs against something that is 2-2.5 in wide and slightly curved as compared to the 1 in hoop.

    And a single knee pad turned to pad between your knees if you find yourself knocking your knees.

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  4. #3
    Contributing Member TimH's Avatar
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    I'm 5'5', needed a large SFI foam kit to move me many inches forward. The steering shaft telescopes and there's adjustment in the shift linkage, too. My knees don't knock together but there've been times I've thought about Paul's suggestion to add a smoother surface to the side tubes. Lately I haven't banged on them much - maybe I need to go faster.
    Caldwell D9B - Sold
    Crossle' 30/32/45 Mongrel - Sold
    RF94 Monoshock - here goes nothin'

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  6. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing View Post
    You have a gap between your knees ! Yeah - they are narrow.

    You probably won't get any seat padding into the area.

    I recommend some small slightly curved aluminum pieces riveted to the sides to help spread the pressure against the outside of your legs. Makes a big difference having your legs against something that is 2-2.5 in wide and slightly curved as compared to the 1 in hoop.

    And a single knee pad turned to pad between your knees if you find yourself knocking your knees.

    THX BBR
    I do have the curved aluminum pieces riveted in there. I'll try the pad/slider in between the knees to see if that helps. On top of me going on a diet!

  7. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimH View Post
    I'm 5'5', needed a large SFI foam kit to move me many inches forward. The steering shaft telescopes and there's adjustment in the shift linkage, too. My knees don't knock together but there've been times I've thought about Paul's suggestion to add a smoother surface to the side tubes. Lately I haven't banged on them much - maybe I need to go faster.
    Will also check this Tim. Not sure how much adjustability I have with everything else. I pulled the existing seat bucket out as I was literally getting "Stuck" each time I got in. Had to throw a tow strap over a storage shelf on the ceiling to hoist myself out.

  8. #6
    Grand Pooh Bah Purple Frog's Avatar
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    Stuck is a good thing. You want to be one with the chassis when the seat is correct. You want it to be that the muscles you use on the track are for controlling the car, and not controlling your body position.

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  10. #7
    Classifieds Super License BeerBudgetRacing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speeddiemen View Post
    THX BBR
    I do have the curved aluminum pieces riveted in there. I'll try the pad/slider in between the knees to see if that helps. On top of me going on a diet!
    I don't think a diet is needed. You won't lose that much in your legs except muscle. You're better off building muscle.

    It's just the way these cars are. You'll get used to it.

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  12. #8
    Contributing Member Lotus7's Avatar
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    As an alternative to aluminum panels outboard of your knees, try using Home Depot water pipe insulation as padding, sliced lengthwise and glued to the vertical tubes. Looks like roll bar padding, but more pliable. Its thickness will force your knees together a bit, but looks like you have the room.
    Ian Macpherson
    Savannah, GA
    Race prep, support, and engineering.

  13. #9
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    When you do pour the seat, wear your drivers suit, it will make a difference. And fill in open areas between tubes with cardboard or thin sheet aluminum taped in place where the foam can ooze through so that you can get the seat out once its cured.

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  15. #10
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    You'll also find that the higher up you can keep the sides of the bead / poured foam seat, the less pressure your legs will put on the sides of the front bulkhead. My Speed Seat (highly recommended!) has sides that extend forward to the front bulkhead, and vertically high enough to support my legs as they pass through it. I'm 6'3", and my legs do not contact the sides of the bulkhead.
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  17. #11
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    I use volleyball knee pads, turned to the outside, under my suit to prevent banging on the vertical chassis rails. Probably important that tech not see them as they are not nomex........

    bt

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