Reflect-A-GOLD on Remote Damper Reservoirs

[Rick Iverson]

Gents:

PV=nRT. Will it help?

[Rick Kirchner]

Gents:

PV=nRT. Will it help?

had some left over, figured it wouldn't hurt. On a 90-96VD, the better thing to do is make a dam to prevent direct impingement of the air coming off the headers and hitting the cylinders (if you have them in the airflow, which a set of piggyback clamps will do).

I used a chunk of jabroc, seen here just in front of the RR shock. It's probably draggy. The air comes in from the right NACA duct, hits the dam and goes out the slot in the back of the engine cover.

[DaveW]

Gents:

PV=nRT. Will it help?

Insulating dampers will slow heat-up from outside sources, but that is only temporary. The dampers' internal heat generation due to their damping energy dissipation will eventually wind up with their being hotter than if you didn't insulate them. The only practical way to keep their temperature lower is to direct cool ambient air over them.

[924RACR]

What Dave said... I'd look to have a stand-off heat shield between dampers and any higher temp heat source - mainly exhaust I'd think - and not to wrap them like a header, since that would seem to ultimately end up helping them retain heat.

More to duct cooling air to them... especially if they're like my SE1 was and are sandwiched between the oil tank and the motor! Or was that oil tank and trans... LOL

[DaveW]

...More to duct cooling air to them... especially if they're like my SE1 was and are sandwiched between the oil tank and the motor! Or was that oil tank and trans... LOL

That's what I have: 2 dedicated ducts feeding to a small aluminum box that mostly surrounds the dampers. My rears are just above the trans and I have a plate under them to shield them from trans heat. The box "tries" to isolate them from other heat sources and trap as much cool air as possible.

[Rick Kirchner]

I'm thinking that keeping the big heat sources off is less about the PV-nRT thing and more about seals and such

[DaveW]

I'm thinking that keeping the big heat sources off is less about the PV-nRT thing and more about seals and such

And degrading the oil.

[Rick Iverson]

Insulating dampers will slow heat-up from outside sources, but that is only temporary. The dampers' internal heat generation due to their damping energy dissipation will eventually wind up with their being hotter than if you didn't insulate them. The only practical way to keep their temperature lower is to direct cool ambient air over them.

Good stuff here

[Rick Iverson]

Insulating dampers will slow heat-up from outside sources, but that is only temporary. The dampers' internal heat generation due to their damping energy dissipation will eventually wind up with their being hotter than if you didn't insulate them. The only practical way to keep their temperature lower is to direct cool ambient air over them.

This, on the engine cowl in the vicinity of the of the remote reservoirs. Better yet, NACA ducts?

[Rick Kirchner]

I actually bought a couple of little clear polycarbonate NACA ducts specifically for this purpose but never got them on the car

[DaveW]

This, on the engine cowl in the vivacity of the of the remote reservoirs. Better yet, NACA ducts?...

Scoops and NACA ducts work best to introduce outside air on an "upward" (tilted toward the airflow, i.e., relatively high pressure) surface. On a "level" or close to level surface a NACA duct works OK and it's smaller.

Louvers work better letting higher pressure air exit the bodywork than trying to get them to suck air in.

To get anything to work properly drawing air into the bodywork you need more air pressure outside than inside, so the area letting the air exit is critical.

[Rick Iverson]

Scoops and NACA ducts work best to introduce outside air on an "upward" (tilted toward the airflow, i.e., relatively high pressure) surface. On a "level" or close to level surface a NACA duct works OK and it's smaller.

Louvers work best letting higher pressure air exit the bodywork than trying to get them to suck air in.

To get anything to work properly drawing air into the bodywork you need more air pressure outside than inside, so the area letting the air exit is critical.

Louvers, but where to get them?

[DaveW]

Louvers, but where to get them?

I used aluminum eave vent louvers that you can buy at hardware stores when I had sidepod vents on my Z16.

https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/s...1rJmV0RLHlIt4w

I cut large white ones in sections to fit where I wanted. They're only a few $ each.

[Roux]

If you can do CAD you could make some pretty complicated intakes, chambers and exit louvres and then have them printed, or spend the $400 and buy a printer. then wrap the plastic bits with metal tape.

Steve

[Roux]

Louvers, but where to get them?

I have a used pair of these that I no longer use.

https://hoodlouvers.com/shop/size-la...QaArfOEALw_wcB

PM me and I can put them in an envelope to you. They are kind of big for what you are trying to do. I went with a big single opening at the back of my car (inspired by Dave Weitzenhof's car) and no longer use these

Steve