What should I know about FF wheels/rims?

[E35pilot]

I'm new to FF racing and have recently purchased a car. I'm now looking for an extra set of wheels to meet vintage FF/CF requirements. I currently have a set of one-piece Revolution wheels with VFF Hoosiers. An extra set will probably be for rain. However, as I look for wheels, there seems to be plenty of brands/options to meet the 13x5.5, four-blot size.
However, I have questions:
Will any 13x5.5 wheel do fine for racing...maybe something off an old Triumph, MG, etc... or any other factory car with the correct size/setback/bolt pattern?
What about steel wheels...will any brand work?

Of course I suspect Jongbloed would be great as well as any of the three-piece revolutions should I locate a set and have the budget.
Anyway, looking for some advice before laying down more $s for a set of wheels.

Thanks for the help,
Lee

[pooch776]

We do not use "rain" tires in vintage FF (against the rules). Your VFF Hoosiers are used for both dry and wet racing. Some drivers will use a freshly scrubbed set of VFF tires as rains but IMO not necessary.

When looking for wheels you want to know the size (13x5.5 for FF), bolt circle (PCD), back space (measured from a straight edge across the back of the wheel to the mounting surface), type of lug nuts (tapered or shoulder) and material (steel, aluminum or magnesium).

Most Revolution wheels use shoulder wheel nuts. You can use steel wheels on a Club Ford but most people use alloy wheels because they are lighter (up to 5 lbs per wheel). A good used set of Panasport or Revolution wheels will typically cost you $500-800 plus shipping.

Have fun, Joe

[Lotus7]

Be aware that different "vintage" and "club" sanctioning bodies have different rules. Some mandate steel wheels.

[Roux]

OP is in Virginia and a fun SCCA event at Summit Point might be in the cards. In that case the VFF's are likely going to be forgiven in Club Ford for dry tires, but if it rains, the rest of the gang will be flying on Hoosier rains and perhaps having a set of useable rains mounted up is good insurance.

Steve

[kea]

We sell wheels from Panasport.
They have an 11mm offset, aluminum eight spoke Prolite model wheel, which fits a number of older cars (4X3-3/4" bolt circle, 2-1/4" center bore)
Bolt-on,weight 8.15Lbs.
Uses conventional tapered lug nuts.
Very popular with Crossle 30-32Fand the like.
We also have blank center versions which can be drilled for other circles.

I tried to load a picture into this file but got a exclamation mark about something which would not me to proceed. And it's not because of size limits !

[E35pilot]

OP is in Virginia and a fun SCCA event at Summit Point might be in the cards. In that case the VFF's are likely going to be forgiven in Club Ford for dry tires, but if it rains, the rest of the gang will be flying on Hoosier rains and perhaps having a set of useable rains mounted up is good insurance.

Steve

This is exactly what I was thinking…thanks for the reinforcement.

[E35pilot]

Are there any wheel brands that would be the correct size for FF/CF) but we should definitely “not” consider?
Maybe because they’re too heavy, unsafe for racing, etc?

Thanks for all the additional help and recommendations.

Lee

[Lotus7]

Are there any wheel brands that would be the correct size for FF/CF) but we should definitely “not” consider?
Maybe because they’re too heavy, unsafe for racing, etc?

Thanks for all the additional help and recommendations.

Lee

"too" heavy is just a handling penalty, not a 'rules' issue. (there are some race classes, e.g. B-Spec, with a minimum wheel weight rule, but I don't think any FF/CF series have it.)

As for "unsafe", I don't think anyone's going to answer that in this litigious society we live in

[kea]

Panasport 8-spoke bolt-on wheels
(I found a round about way to finally get it loaded)



7mm offset, bolt-on


11mm offset bolt-on

[bob darcey]

"Too heavy is a handling issue..."--that's true but it's also an acceleration issue. Reducing moment of inertia for rotating elements increases the car's ability to accelerate/decelerate, and the two most critical rotating elements are the flywheel and the wheels/tires. It's not only the weight but also how the weight is distributed--a hypothetical wheel with all the mass concentrated at the center would have zero MOI.

[Lotus7]

"Too heavy is a handling issue..."--that's true but it's also an acceleration issue. Reducing moment of inertia for rotating elements increases the car's ability to accelerate/decelerate, and the two most critical rotating elements are the flywheel and the wheels/tires. It's not only the weight but also how the weight is distributed--a hypothetical wheel with all the mass concentrated at the center would have zero MOI.

well aware of that, thx, I kept my answer simple

[John Nesbitt]

"Too heavy is a handling issue..."--that's true but it's also an acceleration issue. Reducing moment of inertia for rotating elements increases the car's ability to accelerate/decelerate, and the two most critical rotating elements are the flywheel and the wheels/tires. It's not only the weight but also how the weight is distributed--a hypothetical wheel with all the mass concentrated at the center would have zero MOI.

OTOH, wheels of different weight would likely not be perceptible except to drivers at the pointy end of the field. DaveW might well notice/utilize the difference; JohnN never would.

So, a significant cost difference might be money better spent on some other factor.

[racingflyboy]

OTOH, wheels of different weight would likely not be perceptible except to drivers at the pointy end of the field. DaveW might well notice/utilize the difference; JohnN never would.

So, a significant cost difference might be money better spent on some other factor.

As Bruce Lindstrand once told me, "spend your money on the Spacer - that's the part that fits between the steering wheel and the roll hoop." Seat time! Will make a bigger difference for us amateurs than all the speedy bits.