Painting bodywork

[GregPeluso]

Ok, I am once again doing fiberglass and considering painting instead of wrapping again. Has anyone tried to use the Turbo cans for painting? I am thinking white would hide a lot and thinking of giving it a try to save money. I can not find any recent threads with people refreshing their bodywork.

thanks
Greg

[reidhazelton]

Anything out of a spray can isn't catalyzed, so it's going to dissolve with any solvents that it comes in contact with - oil, gas, some cleaners that remove tire marble marks, etc. It's also a very, very thin build so it won't "hide" much if anything. I'm not a fan of wraps (former painter), but a wrap is way better than a spray can.

[billtebbutt]

At the last Toyo event of the season, we had a wrapped VD catch fire in the engine bay. I was right behind it at the time. Once the flame got to the outside of the engine bay, it hit the wrap and accelerated around the car past the dash. This all happened in the span of maybe 15 seconds. Fortunately the driver was unhurt, and the suit and gloves did their job.

I had never considered the flammability of vinyl wrap before.

best
bt

[jrh3]

Save the spray can for touch up of the generic Chevy white catalyzed single stage enamel

[romoman]

Eastwood among others make 2k spray can paint. I have not tried it myself, so I don't know how good or bad it is. We wrap the GT cars not and never paint them.

[E1pix]

In my teens into my early 20s, I probably “spray-bombed” over 50 helmets and a few, complete formula cars, some with stripes and including hand-lettered numbers, logos, and stripes.

All I used was single-stage lacquer then, which was brittle by nature, and prone to chipping without clear… which I used later on helmets.

The beauty of lacquer was it could be wet-sanded quickly, and polished like any paint. Few believed any of these projects were done with cans.

I suspect newer paint should be better. What I don’t know is if pollution regulations have changed the mix but suspect they have. Whether or not that means new paint is weaker, I can’t say.

Like any paintwork, the guarantee of more success is in the prep. Sand between every coat, keep everything clean, buy great wax and grease remover like Prep-Sol, and don’t fall prey to the easy temptress telling you to keep adding paint. More layers is best.

I imagine the Eastwood paints are far better than my day, their reputation has been properly earned and they want to keep it that way.

All meaning, on a smaller car, with no stripes, and in the best color possible for this exercise (white), I personally wouldn’t hesitate doing this for a minute — especially if it’s already white.

Good Luck!

PS — There is a potential downside worth considering, and that is resale. Most or all non-collectable race cars get much more interest and income when painted well.

[BeerBudgetRacing]

I have used the Spraymax 2k products a few times with good results.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/spraymax

I wanted white and eastwood doesn't seem to have a white.

[DaveW]

It's expensive and one has to use an activated charcoal mask (carcinogenic if you breathe much of it), but I use Imron. It's a urethane color + activator combo that is easy to apply and results in a finish that rivals the best clear-coat enamels. It doesn't need much surface prep to get a beautiful finish. It's also flexible so doesn't easily chip and resists almost all solvents. I've been using it for over 30 years.

I spray outdoors, so no paint booth needed.

[BrianT1]

I sprayed a nose with a rattle can, then used the 2k clear. Several coats then a light sand and buff, it looked great. But it was a nose and it was black and the base was black so if any chips happened they wouldn't really be seen. I don't think I would attempt a full body with a rattle can especially if its a color change.


Brian

[RussMcB]

I used Kandy 2K recently after getting estimates that were way out of my budget. I'm fairly happy with the results. It may not be up to the standards of many. I used helicopter tape on leading edges because I doubt this would hold up to much abuse.

My biggest regret was using a darker primer on my engine cover that is very noticeable.

[DaveW]

With the Imron, it takes only 1 to 3 coats an hour or less apart, no sanding in between, depending on the color and what it's sprayed over. Yellow is usually just 1 coat. Red often takes up to 3 coats to reach the desired tint.

[DanW]

White primer can help bright colors pop. If you want to hide the highly chipped/blasted areas, tinting your primer to your color coat can help.

[DaveW]

White primer can help bright colors pop. If you want to hide the highly chipped/blasted areas, tinting your primer to your color coat can help.

With the Imron I don't need or use primer.

[pooch776]

I have found that the 2 part spray cans hold very little paint and they are very expensive.

I have had very good success with my local Maaco body shop. They have different quality paints from single stage enamel to two stage polyurethane. I have had a number of Formula Fords painted by them from $650 at the low end with single stage to $900 for two stage paint job. I bring them new non-prepped fiberglass bodywork. They perform minor bodywork, prime and paint the panels.

I stopped doing my own paintwork about ten years ago and I am very glad I did. These are all Maaco paint jobs

Cheers, Joe

[DaveW]

It's expensive and one has to use an activated charcoal mask (carcinogenic if you breathe much of it), but I use Imron. It's a urethane color + activator combo that is easy to apply and results in a finish that rivals the best clear-coat enamels. It doesn't need much surface prep to get a beautiful finish. It's also flexible so doesn't easily chip and resists almost all solvents. I've been using it for over 30 years.

I spray outdoors, so no paint booth needed.

I got a PM from Marty Nygard that I agree with 100%. I copied it below along with my response:
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Dave,
About 40 years ago I bought an HP Bugeye from a local racer and body man. It was painted a John Deere green in Imron. The seller had to sell it since he was now unable to work after exposure to Imron. I am happy you are able to continuing function with only a charcoal mask but I would like to suggest you begin to use an air pressure aspirated mask in the future.

Thank you for the advice. I DO appreciate it. I do not use Imron in a closed space, because I think the concentration of fumes would be too high for safety even using the mask. Even outdoors I am careful that I don't smell any of the Imron fumes getting past the mask. Imron has a distinctive smell, and my sense of smell is very good, so I am being careful.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

So if you use Imron, do not breathe the fumes in the air while spraying !

[stonebridge20]

I have found that the 2 part spray cans hold very little paint and they are very expensive.

I have had very good success with my local Maaco body shop. They have different quality paints from single stage enamel to two stage polyurethane. I have had a number of Formula Fords painted by them from $650 at the low end with single stage to $900 for two stage paint job. I bring them new non-prepped fiberglass bodywork. They perform minor bodywork, prime and paint the panels.

I stopped doing my own paintwork about ten years ago and I am very glad I did. These are all Maaco paint jobs

Cheers, Joe

I've seen these cars up close many many times, usually in my mirrors and I never would have guessed they were Maaco paint jobs.
All three of these cars are top notch builds with really nice paintwork.

[Chris Livengood]

I have used Maaco as well. I sent them fairly ready, but well weathered and used bodywork and the results are decent. My FV is Maaco paint. We have done it a few times and I have a current project that I think I will do the same.