Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Senior Member AlanVDW's Avatar
    Join Date
    05.21.05
    Location
    Ramsey NJ
    Posts
    273
    Liked: 23

    Default Best way to remove material from my bead seat?

    I have a bead seat inset in my CFF that makes me sit too high in the cockpit. I pass the helmet to roll hoop test but I'm uncomfortable with the broomstick clearance. I'd like to lower my self in the car, so I'd need to trim the bottom area where my ass is. What's the best way to evenly carve out that convave area?
    Last edited by AlanVDW; 08.25.23 at 8:47 PM.
    Van Diemen RF 79 #? Van Deimen RF 78 #231

    It's not how fast you go.
    It's how well you go fast.

  2. #2
    Classifieds Super License BeerBudgetRacing's Avatar
    Join Date
    09.04.13
    Location
    Goleta, California
    Posts
    4,173
    Liked: 1261

    Default

    IMO carving it will yield an unsatisfactory result.

    Either use the old seat to determine new position and pour a new one.

    Or just start over.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    03.22.02
    Location
    Pittsboro IN
    Posts
    1,091
    Liked: 278

    Default

    A hot knife and a rasp for cutting and finishing but trying to get an existing seat lower is an exercise in futility. Make a new seat

  4. The following members LIKED this post:


  5. #4
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
    Join Date
    02.24.02
    Location
    Tehachapi, CA
    Posts
    6,503
    Liked: 1474

    Default

    Well I'll be the contrarian here. I've used a die grinder with a flapper wheel on it to contour bead seats. Alternatively, cut the bottom of the seat off completely and put a layer of ensolite on the floor to keep your butt off the aluminum and provide a bit of padding. Just buy a military sleeping pad at a surplus store for the material.

    Then contour the remaining seat back to blend in with the foam floor.

  6. #5
    Contributing Member EYERACE's Avatar
    Join Date
    09.05.02
    Location
    Orlando Florida 32812
    Posts
    3,829
    Liked: 597

    Default

    1. I'd use a hack saw blade held by one of those tools that extends about half the blade's length out in free space
    or
    2. I wouldn't do the modification at all......because on an impact that would jam your spine down, you'd care to have that material absorb energy......the alternative being compressed vertebrae that can lead to what is called burst fracture. Don't ask me how I know but I'm about one and a half inches shorter because of such. Maybe the story is still posted here somewhere at ApexSpeed from about 11 years ago. They told me I was lucky I can still walk. Thanks to Dr. Terry Trammell of OrthoIndy fame and the EPP seat (the seat was $3,000) made by BaldSpot MotorSports I'm back out on track.... but sitting about 3 inches higher now in the car than before. I don't like that I'm sitting 3 inches higher but without that much multi-impact material under me (a regular bead seat is only single impact material) no one with Medical understanding of the racing-with-injuries circumstances would dare go out again. There's still no guarantee that I'd be OK under repeat impact conditions....but then there wasn't any to begin with. The car's main hoop had to be altered and raised by 3 inches too.....between the hoop and how high I sit I've severely hampered my aero.

  7. The following members LIKED this post:

    BLS

  8. #6
    Senior Member HazelNut's Avatar
    Join Date
    08.07.02
    Location
    locust valley, ny USA
    Posts
    1,954
    Liked: 142

    Default

    when i do seats I use a fish filleting knife a to trim them. works great. It's worth a try but re-contouring the topside is going to be difficult and you're probably not going to get a nice smooth surface. Maybe try a sanding ball?

    https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-8...all-61182.html

    I tend to agree that you're probably going to end up making a new seat.
    Awww, come on guys, it's so simple. Maybe you need a refresher course. Hey! It's all ball bearings nowadays.

  9. #7
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
    Join Date
    02.24.02
    Location
    Tehachapi, CA
    Posts
    6,503
    Liked: 1474

    Default

    I've really had no problem with flapper wheels. It is a bit more of a challenge to get a really "clean" surface with styrofoam because it has a tendency to melt a bit and hang on at the edges, but that can be brushed off.

    Pour foam is easier to sand but what you have to go thorough to protect your eyes from the tiny sharp shards is something else!

  10. #8
    Senior Member AlanVDW's Avatar
    Join Date
    05.21.05
    Location
    Ramsey NJ
    Posts
    273
    Liked: 23

    Default

    I am trying find the best fit before replacing with a new bead seat.
    Van Diemen RF 79 #? Van Deimen RF 78 #231

    It's not how fast you go.
    It's how well you go fast.

  11. The following members LIKED this post:


Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  




About Us
Since 2000, ApexSpeed.com has been the go-to place for amateur road racing enthusiasts, bringing together a friendly community of racers, fans, and industry professionals. We're all about creating a space where people can connect, share knowledge, and exchange parts and vehicles, with a focus on specific race cars, classes, series, and events. Our community includes all major purpose-built road racing classes, like the Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) and various pro series across North America and beyond. At ApexSpeed, we're passionate about amateur motorsports and are dedicated to helping our community have fun and grow while creating lasting memories on and off the track.
Social