Oil Pressure 'inidcating' issue.

[BeerBudgetRacing]

I always start the car every few weeks. The last couple of times the OP initially reads 6psi.

Shut down everything and start again and the OP indication is fine.

Sending unit/Sensor? <-my guess

ECU (Pectel)

or Data system?

[Lyngengr]

I always start the car every few weeks. The last couple of times the OP initially reads 6psi.
Shut down everything and start again and the OP indication is fine.

Try cranking it, but not starting. If you do this, the OP should build up after a few seconds. I do this every few weeks, I don't actually start it, just motor it until I see a steady OP. Monitor the OP using the real time mode in AiM RS.

You can check the sender by removing it and hooking it up to a compressed air supply.

Swap the connections between the fuel and oil pressure senders, that will tell you if the ECU is OK.

[EYERACE]

The Battery Tender 2 amp charger is on the small gel cell battery in the car constantly when the car sits....My regimen for the engine when it sits.......about every 5 weeks.......with the jump battery first fully charged.........disconnect the Battery Tender.....plug in the jump battery......turn on main switch......turn on switch to AIM dash.........wait until I can read the dash..........with ignition off, crank until I see oil pressure come up (about 3 seconds).........stop..........turn on ignition........crank............and it fires up and I see almost 60 pounds almost instantly........10 seconds later..........ignition & dash main off, disconnect jump battery.......reconnect Battery Tender........go have a shot.....or two

[DaveW]

The Battery Tender 2 amp charger is on the small gel cell battery in the car constantly when the car sits....My regimen for the engine when it sits.......about every 5 weeks.......with the jump battery first fully charged.........disconnect the Battery Tender.....plug in the jump battery......turn on main switch......turn on switch to AIM dash.........wait until I can read the dash..........with ignition off, crank until I see oil pressure come up (about 3 seconds).........stop..........turn on ignition........crank............and it fires up and I see almost 60 pounds almost instantly........10 seconds later..........ignition & dash main off, disconnect jump battery.......reconnect Battery Tender........go have a shot.....or two

Building oil pressure every month or so would be good, but...

Running the engine for a short time like this causes combustion moisture to be formed and left on internal engine surfaces every time you do it. So I try to avoid starting the engine w/o thoroughly warming it up (water temperature above 180F) because the moisture can cause corrosion which is obviously not desirable.

That's true for any internal combustion engine - race, street, lawn-mower, etc.

[EYERACE]

So I shall alter my sequence........while waiting for engine temp to climb to around 175-180, have shot or two (depending on how long it takes to build temp)..........savor............achieve desired temp...........initiate and complete shut down sequence........have third shot !!

[problemchild]

Assuming that you are actively racing, what is the purpose of starting the engine between events? I start my engine before putting it in the trailer, just so there are no surprises at the track, but otherwise, see no reason to run it. I have the impression that unnecessary running of the engine is just carboning up my valves and valve seats.

[DaveW]

So I shall alter my sequence........while waiting for engine temp to climb to around 175-180, have shot or two (depending on how long it takes to build temp)..........savor............achieve desired temp...........initiate and complete shut down sequence........have third shot !!

If you are worried about oil circulation, just crank the engine (without spark plugs if your starter is questionable) enough to build pressure and don't start it until you're getting close to a racing weekend, like Greg said, to assure it runs properly.

I also, after every race weekend, spray a light oil like Cyclo "Break-Away," into the intakes while cranking with the throttle wide open, to oil it down and minimize corrosion during "down-time."

[Larry H]

I also, after every race weekend, spray a light oil like Cyclo "Break-Away," into the intakes while cranking with the throttle wide open, to oil it down and minimize corrosion during "down-time."

Probably a dumb question but is the the ignition off and are the plugs in or out?

[tlracer]

Ignition off, plugs out

[DaveW]

Ignition off, plugs out

Ignition off. Plugs out is best, but if your starter and battery are capable of it w/o strain, plugs in is OK. I do it with them in (Zetec).

When I had a Pinto engine, I pulled the plugs and squirted oil directly into the cylinders, then turned it over a few times to distribute the oil.

[BeerBudgetRacing]

When I had a Pinto motor, I was advised to prep for 'storage' by running the engine while spraying WD40 into the intake until it dies or almost dies. Then spray 2 rags with WD40 and stuff one to cover the carb and another into the exhaust pipe.
This creates a fog in the engine and helps dispel moisture.

YMMV.

[EYERACE]

I used to put a tennis ball in the tail pipe - thanks for the WD-40 rag idea.

If you follow my routine........do not start your engine before noon.

[DaveW]

When I had a Pinto motor, I was advised to prep for 'storage' by running the engine while spraying WD40 into the intake until it dies or almost dies. Then spray 2 rags with WD40 and stuff one to cover the carb and another into the exhaust pipe.
This creates a fog in the engine and helps dispel moisture.

YMMV.

It would require running the engine to do that. Usually when I get home from a race I don't want to start the engine again until it's almost time for the next race because I'd have to run it long enough to not leave any liquid moisture to corrode stuff.

[BeerBudgetRacing]

It would require running the engine to do that. Usually when I get home from a race I don't want to start the engine again until it's almost time for the next race because I'd have to run it long enough to not leave any liquid moisture to corrode stuff.

Yeah. It was part of the loading process. Do it with an already warm engine. Spray intake. And then wait to stuff the rags when it cools down.

I usually only did it when I knew I was not racing for a few months.

[schiconst]

I guess not many people have a belt driven pump! It's the best way to go!!

[DaveW]

I guess not many people have a belt driven pump! It's the best way to go!!

On the Pinto I used to do that by using a spare belt to spin the oil pump (drill motor chuck as the drive) with the belt on the crank pulley slipped off the pump. On the Zetec, there's no way to get at the belt or OP pulley w/o pulling the engine.

[Lyngengr]

I also, after every race weekend, spray a light oil like Cyclo "Break-Away," into the intakes while cranking with the throttle wide open, to oil it down and minimize corrosion during "down-time."

You can get "fogging oil" which is designed for storing engines for an indefinite period. Remove the plugs, turn over the engine while spraying it into each cylinder. I did this one winter, after learning about it from John LaRue, engine fired right up the following spring and smoked until all the fogging oil was burned off. If I'm not taking down the car to the point where I can't crank it (but not start it), then I just turn it over every few weeks during the winter, no fogging. I do keep my car in a climate controlled garage, so probably not much of a chance for significant condensation.

[tlracer]

When I had a Pinto engine, I pulled the plugs and squirted oil directly into the cylinders, then turned it over a few times to distribute the oil.

Handy way of doing this is with a small pump spray bottle - the ones for spraying cooking oil are ideal, just clean out an old one and fill with engine oil. Keep it in a warm place so the oil's mobile and it works brilliantly!

[tlracer]

On the Pinto I used to do that by using a spare belt to spin the oil pump (drill motor chuck as the drive) with the belt on the crank pulley slipped off the pump.

I stole your idea Dave and it works brilliantly!

IMG_20230413_131847.jpg