Weight Savings FV?
How much lighter is the IMI 105 lightweight starter? Im trying to shed some weight on my vee but dont know if its worth it for 200 bucks.
Any other suggestions for shaving weight? Already going to get a smaller lifepo4 battery. Thinking about aluminum trailing arms. Any other suggestions besides making my fat ass go on a diet?
Last edited by littlezav; 01.10.23 at 1:23 AM.
Weight loss
I think the biggest weight loss you can easily, cheaply get is with the battery. I saved 7.5 lbs with a Shorai, you might get another .5 - 1 lbs with yours. You will get another 4-5 lbs with the starter, ??(I weighed the Imi 105 at 8lbs 13.7 oz, I don't have a stock starter to weigh)?? but the other advantage is that they are indexable so can fit different exhaust configurations and that they don't need a bushing in the trans case.
After that, the next cheap, easy (maybe) thing to do would be trimming your self down 5 or 10 lbs. That could add up to 20 lbs between car and driver this winter. Going after more weight reduction is going to take creativity, more time or money to get diminishing results. That said, ounces add up to pounds eventually.
'Originally Posted by brian styczynski
Thank you, yea trimming myself down is the easiest and most cost effective way. With me in the car, its about 60 pounds over weight but losing 60 pounds is not a reasonable (or healthy) thing for me. Figured the car (Predator P3) had some extra pudge I could shed.
Predator weight
I think the predator was a heavier car. Maybe the side pods could be remover and make it more a scorpion. See the car Alex scaler ran at the runoffs the last 2 years, or search for old scorpion for sale post on here. It would require fiberglass work and you would loss the impact protection the side pods give you, but be more streamline.
Yea, been thinking about those side pods and a way to get rid of them but I think I like the idea of having some side protection.
Careful on the starter. I have a picture (I'll try to attach) comparing three starters and the 12v VW is the lightest at 6.14 pounds. I do not recall if I verified these weights. I didn't take the picture and I'm sorry I can't properly give credit to the one that did as I've lost the original reference.
Do you happen to have a part number for the 12v VW? I'm still new to the Vee world and not sure which part will work with our flywheel.Careful on the starter. I have a picture (I'll try to attach) comparing three starters and the 12v VW is the lightest at 6.14 pounds. I do not recall if I verified these weights. I didn't take the picture and I'm sorry I can't properly give credit to the one that did as I've lost the original reference.
Last edited by littlezav; 01.10.23 at 2:12 AM.
never-Never-NEVER!!! go to aluminum trailing arms!!!!!!!
Just my opinion...but life & health are worth WAY more than amateur racing trophies.
Glenn
p.s. Making a Scorpion involved more than just removing the sidepods...it was a Predator with a Caracal-C rear frame (leading arms behind the axles and a completely different zero-roll set-up). If you're considering THAT much work & expense, just switch to a Caracal-C. (again, just my 2¢)
Out of curiosity sake, what's the issue with aluminum trailing arms?
I swapped starters over several years ago. As I recall, it shaves off around five pounds from a fairly high and to-the-rear location. My rationale was that I didn't have a spare starter, and I could use the VW starter as my spare.
As to the VW 6V or 12V starters, the flywheel gear will be different. Our flywheels are made for the 6V and a VW 12V will not work out of the box. I don't know what would be involved in changing those gears-I imagine it would be some work.
Lawrence Hayes who is Hayescages here swapped the 6v drive from an old starter onto the VW Bosch starter for me 10 years ago and it's been bulletproof in my 2 cars.
strength & stress.
people are bending & snapping surprisingly beefy steel arms anymore, I cannot imagine how large the aluminum versions would have to be to even start being safe. and a lot of the failures are not even the arm itself, it is often the plate that bolts to the axle casting.
~Matt Clark| RTJ-02 FV #92 | My YouTube Onboard Videos (helmet cam)
I probably should have mentioned the 12v starter doesn't work properly with the 6v flywheel gear. I recall instructions someone wrote once to swap the 12v starter to the 6v drive but I have no idea where they are.
As for the correct part numbers I don't know them.
I just messed around with this yesterday.
The stock 6v starter does indeed weigh 13 pounds. I used a carry-on luggage scale. It's like a modern-day version of a handheld fish scale, only digital. Comes in handy for weighing all manner of stuff.
I weighed an IMI at 8 pounds, 8 ounces. A stock 12v Bosch SR15x weighs 8.5 pounds also. That 6.6 pounds listed above must be for a different 12v starter, I notice it has 3 screws for the solenoid. Mine has 2 screws.
IF you convert your VW/Bosch from a 6v to 12v VW you WILL NEED a new starter bushing. The bushing you need depends on the hole in the transmission, there are two size holes. I got a 6v trans to 12v starter bushing. The shaft size is the same on both Bosch starters I have.
You will need to completely disassemble both starters to put a 6v gear on the 12v starter. There are little snap rings behind steel collars that need to be removed with screwdrivers and a pick. WATCH your FINGERS and wear leather gloves! I stabbed my thumb with the pick. Ouch! And make sure nothing can fly off and disappear in the shop somewhere! I put the ear of the starter in a vice to work on it. The spiral spline the gear rides on is the same for 6v and 12v. Change ONLY the gear itself, and all else fits back the way it was. Make sure to clean it and use fresh grease upon assembly.
I also have an IMI-101 12v and am waiting on the 6v gear(or buy an IMI-105). I'll swap the gear and keep it as a spare. EDIT: I received the gear from CarTek, very quick service. Swapped it out and on the car, works great.
I saved 4.5 pounds. It's something, but not going to make a whole lot of difference.
The biggest bonus: I can swap the starter without removing the zero roll. The 12v stuff is a lot shorter than the old 6v.
Last edited by DannyPip; 04.25.23 at 5:50 AM. Reason: IMI weight was wrong
Light weight starter
I have the exact stater you are looking for I’m selling it for $175.00 plus shipping. Pm me for more information thanks Bob
Message sent. Can anyone confirm the IMI-105 will work out of the box?
YES. The IMI-105 has the 6v gear, but is a 12v motor.
The IMI-101 is the exact same starter, but with a gear for the 12v 200mm clutch.
A 6v starter works really well on 12 volts. Turns over nice and fast
That is a picture I posted years ago. At the time I manufactured a 6 volt conversion starter drive to fit the 12 volt starter. I sold a few drives myself, and Bob Lybarger also sold them for me. Bob sold a bunch so they are around. They fit the Bosch SR-15N starter ( a permanent magnet starter) also most Chinese K/O's. Bob had a few left when he shut down LRE, so whoever bought some of the parts and shelving probably doesn't even know what they fit. You had to install the small 12 volt bushing in the tranny.
Forgot to mention, The IMI starter may not fit all cars because of the way it is clocked. There are several differtent ways to clock it stock, but don't be afraid to drill your own holes. Didn' fit my Citation with BRP headers in the stock configuration.
"That is a picture I posted years ago."
Dave, sorry I couldn't properly attribute it. I remembered saving the picture but couldn't remember where I found it or who was the the originator.
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