Putting my old vee back together for the current owner and I would like to know which wire is connected to positive and which to negative? It is an earlier model and has a brown wire and blue wire.
Thanks Ed
Putting my old vee back together for the current owner and I would like to know which wire is connected to positive and which to negative? It is an earlier model and has a brown wire and blue wire.
Thanks Ed
I Googled for kicks and found two references:
Brown to +12v, Blue to negative
brown wire is (+) and the blue wire is (-).
Thanks! I searched yesterday before asking the question but didn't find an answer.
Ed
I am in the process of converting my chargeable to hard wired. I downloaded the manual, to read “wire to a fused circuit”. So what does that mean?
That means you need to have a fuse between the power source and the transponder. Either tap into a fused power source
from the on off switch or add a inline fuse between the power line and the transponder lead wire.
And .. if you do that, it would be a good idea to include a small LED indicator to show that the fuse was good at that moment. There isn't an easy way to tell that a unit is functioning or not. At least you would know that the fuse hadn't blown for some reason. I'm not sure why the manual recommends a fused source ... ? .. other than the fact that it's generally a good idea to fuse EVERYTHING.... but carry spares (conveniently) for any you have on your car .. or use resettable ones.
Steve
Steve, FV80
Racing since '73 - FV since '77
Gents;
Over the past twenty years on Apex, I have collected dozens of schematics, but I do not recall any with fuses. Can anyone point me in a direction that I can get some advice, like amp ratings and wiring recommendations?
V/r
Iverson
Fuses are generally recommended for EVERYTHING.. for the reason that ANYTHING can happen. However, for a RACE CAR, I pretty much feel that fuses are overkill... the most likely situation that you would run into is that .. during pre-race prep, you MIGHT touch something (with a wrench or screwdriver, etc) that would not harm anything normally but would CERTAINLY BLOW ANY FUSE in that circuit. As a result .. at grid time, you might TRY to crank the car (after already being belted in with helmet/hans ON ) and find that NOTHING works .. at least nothing on THAT fused circuit.
I could certainly be WRONG in my 'feeling' .. but over the years I have encountered quite the number of blown fuses .. and I'd guess that about 95% of them were blown by ME .. touching something for 'just an instant' with a 'tool of some sort'. Maybe that should be 99%?
Mostly, THINGS that could cause a fuse to blow .. just DIE instead. ... but rarely POP the fuse.
YMMV,
Steve
Steve, FV80
Racing since '73 - FV since '77
Stonebridge Sports & Classics ltd
15 Great Pasture Rd Danbury, CT. 06810 (203) 744-1120
www.cryosciencetechnologies.com
Cryogenic Processing · REM-ISF Processing · Race Prep & Driver Development
Most blown fuses that I've encountered (house, street vehicles, racecars, etc.) either failed from thermal-cycle fatigue or an internal defect. I'd say that less than 5% of blown fuses I've had were from something in their circuit shorting out which is what they're supposed to do. So, unless the device that it's protecting came wired with one, I don't use fuses in racecars.
Dave Weitzenhof
A $400 picture tube will always protect a 10 cent fuse by blowing first
I'll admit to preferring fuses over not for things I care about like a Motec. Usually when a fuse blows it's after I've mis-wired something or stuck a wrench where it didn't belong. And then was happy it was just a fuse I blew.
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