How to wire AMB transponder

[Ed Womer]

Putting my old vee back together for the current owner and I would like to know which wire is connected to positive and which to negative? It is an earlier model and has a brown wire and blue wire.

Thanks Ed

[RussMcB]

I Googled for kicks and found two references:

Brown to +12v, Blue to negative

brown wire is (+) and the blue wire is (-).

[Ed Womer]

Thanks! I searched yesterday before asking the question but didn't find an answer.

Ed

[Rick Iverson]

I Googled for kicks and found two references:

Brown to +12v, Blue to negative

brown wire is (+) and the blue wire is (-).

Russ;

I am in the process of converting my chargeable to hard wired. I downloaded the manual, to read “wire to a fused circuit”. So what does that mean?

[Thomas Wirtz]

I am in the process of converting my chargeable to hard wired. I downloaded the manual, to read “wire to a fused circuit”. So what does that mean?

That means you need to have a fuse between the power source and the transponder. Either tap into a fused power source
from the on off switch or add a inline fuse between the power line and the transponder lead wire.

[Steve Davis]

I am in the process of converting my chargeable to hard wired. I downloaded the manual, to read “wire to a fused circuit”. So what does that mean?

That means you need to have a fuse between the power source and the transponder. Either tap into a fused power source
from the on off switch or add a inline fuse between the power line and the transponder lead wire.

And .. if you do that, it would be a good idea to include a small LED indicator to show that the fuse was good at that moment. There isn't an easy way to tell that a unit is functioning or not. At least you would know that the fuse hadn't blown for some reason. I'm not sure why the manual recommends a fused source ... ? .. other than the fact that it's generally a good idea to fuse EVERYTHING.... but carry spares (conveniently) for any you have on your car .. or use resettable ones.
Steve

[Rick Iverson]

Gents;

Over the past twenty years on Apex, I have collected dozens of schematics, but I do not recall any with fuses. Can anyone point me in a direction that I can get some advice, like amp ratings and wiring recommendations?

[Steve Davis]

Fuses are generally recommended for EVERYTHING.. for the reason that ANYTHING can happen. However, for a RACE CAR, I pretty much feel that fuses are overkill... the most likely situation that you would run into is that .. during pre-race prep, you MIGHT touch something (with a wrench or screwdriver, etc) that would not harm anything normally but would CERTAINLY BLOW ANY FUSE in that circuit. As a result .. at grid time, you might TRY to crank the car (after already being belted in with helmet/hans ON ) and find that NOTHING works .. at least nothing on THAT fused circuit.

I could certainly be WRONG in my 'feeling' .. but over the years I have encountered quite the number of blown fuses .. and I'd guess that about 95% of them were blown by ME .. touching something for 'just an instant' with a 'tool of some sort'. Maybe that should be 99%?

Mostly, THINGS that could cause a fuse to blow .. just DIE instead. ... but rarely POP the fuse.

YMMV,
Steve

[stonebridge20]

Gents;

Over the past twenty years on Apex, I have collected dozens of schematics, but I do not recall any with fuses. Can anyone point me in a direction that I can get some advice, like amp ratings and wiring recommendations?

No.

I've wired more than a few racecars in the past 35 years. I trust my ability to do it good enough to not need any fuses.

[DaveW]

...I could certainly be WRONG in my 'feeling' .. but over the years I have encountered quite the number of blown fuses .. and I'd guess that about 95% of them were blown by ME .. touching something for 'just an instant' with a 'tool of some sort'. Maybe that should be 99%?...YMMV,
Steve

Most blown fuses that I've encountered (house, street vehicles, racecars, etc.) either failed from thermal-cycle fatigue or an internal defect. I'd say that less than 5% of blown fuses I've had were from something in their circuit shorting out which is what they're supposed to do. So, unless the device that it's protecting came wired with one, I don't use fuses in racecars.

[Rick Iverson]

No.

I've wired more than a few racecars in the past 35 years. I trust my ability to do it good enough to not need any fuses.

Most blown fuses that I've encountered (house, street vehicles, racecars, etc.) either failed from thermal-cycle fatigue or an internal defect. I'd say that less than 5% of blown fuses I've had were from something in their circuit shorting out which is what they're supposed to do. So, unless the device that it's protecting came wired with one, I don't use fuses in racecars.

Fellas;

Considering the price of a new xpondr with annual subscription fees, I am inclined to put an inline fuse as recommended. I will contact MyLaps tomorrow and report back.

[EYERACE]

A $400 picture tube will always protect a 10 cent fuse by blowing first

[Rick Iverson]

And .. if you do that, it would be a good idea to include a small LED indicator to show that the fuse was good at that moment.

Steve, good stuff here.

[stownsen914]

I'll admit to preferring fuses over not for things I care about like a Motec. Usually when a fuse blows it's after I've mis-wired something or stuck a wrench where it didn't belong. And then was happy it was just a fuse I blew.