Engine clearances/tolerances

[DannyPip]

Hi guys. I'm trying to get my engine ready for the OWDE at New Hampshire in three weeks.

I checked the crank endplay and it's at 0.018". There are two spacers/shims in there. I've built many VW motors but this is my first Vee.
Should I add the third shim(I've got some on hand) to get it between 0.004" and 0.008"? I know three shims are used in "stock" applications, or even big CC performance motors.

What is the "norm" endplay on these? Is larger than stock endplay what I'm looking for? If I install one of the shims I have, I'll end up with 0.006". Should I?

Also, I popped the valve covers off. The rocker stand nuts are completely backed off, which is great for a storage situation with respect to the valve springs. The motor looks impeccably clean inside. Dumped the old oil of course(which looked very clean).

What is acceptable/desired side clearance on the rockers to the washers? There aren't any "springy" washers installed as original VW, which I expected.

I pulled the fuel tank out and popped the cover. The cell is in excellent shape, the foam looks brand spanking new and like fuel has never touched it. There was zero odor of any kind in there, the foam was replaced in 2018 and honestly I don't think the car was ever run.

[Steve Davis]

Danny,
It's been 'some time' since I built a Vee engine, but I seem to recall 0.012 as the desired end play... at that time (some 25 years ago?). Although, with increasing RPM's these days, the 'most optimum' play might have changed a bit, I think 0.012 is still a 'comfortable' number for a new build(er) . I would NOT suggest taking it down to 0.006. You can try different 'metal crank end' "gaskets" .. they vary a bit in torqued thickness. Your statement seemed to indicate that your 'shims on hand' are 0.012 each. IMHO, the fewer number of shims you have, the more stable the number will be, so removing the 2 you have and replacing with ONE of your 'on hand' shims should put you where you want to be.

As for the rocker 'side play', it shouldn't matter much. Removal of the wavy washers is to 'free up' the side load, so the goal is to achieve THAT without allowing TOO MUCH side movement. There is generally a fair amount of lift variation anyway, so it's not too critical. The face of the adjustment screw at the point of contact with the top of the valve stem is the biggest variation I've seen.

Good luck with your first build - but I caution you that your first build GOAL is to end up with an engine that RUNS FOR MANY SESSIONS. Trying to build a 'killer' out of the box should not be your first goal. OILING is the most important issue you need to deal with. The side loads places on a vee engine FAR FAR exceed those of any other VW engine application. A long turn can totally empty the bottom of the case if it's not properly baffled .. and you end up with an engine that can't complete a full lap.

I might add that answers to this and many THOUSANDS of other basic questions can often be found on the old original FV Interchange (http://www/FormulaVee.org). It's not as active now as the newer forums, and the search engine there is not really great, but it's about as good as any other forum search engine. MANY MANY 'basic items of interest' have been 'beat on' by experts for days/weeks in many cases.

Good luck,
Steve, FV80

[DannyPip]

Thank you, Stevan.
I might add I'm not really building anything. I'm just making sure everything is up to snuff.

The engine is marked "R" all over which I'm assuming is "regional".

I just thought 18 thou is a LOT of slop.

Car is pink and black 92 BRD, formerly Bill Ross' car #55 from VA. Last on track in 2017/18.

[FVRacer21]

Danny

Welcome to FV.

If you can check to see if the engine had been to a specific engine builder, that would be helpful.

Each builder has a numbering system. I would not assume "R" = regional - could just be for Ross.

Since most of us have engines build and try not to mess with them, that figure is not well known.

Also, since most engines get rebuild on a yearly or bi-yearly basis, normally we don't get into trouble....

But it might be a good number to have in your back pocket.

FYI - I measured and engine with low miles at around .010 which is close to Steve's .012.

I agree, I would not go down to .006 without confirmation - and you might need custom shims to get to the ideal setting.

ChrisZ

[Hardingfv32]

End play effects camshaft timing. Probably best to just leave the clearance as is.

Brian

[BLS]

"I might add that answers to this and many THOUSANDS of other basic questions can often be found on the old original FV Interchange"

Thanks to Steve for keeping it alive as it has valuable information.

http://formulavee.org/viewtopic.php?...nd+play#p21391

[DannyPip]

Thanks, gents. I received an email from Bill and I guess 0.018" is acceptable.

Good info all, I hadn't thought of the endplay affecting cam timing but you're right, Brian.

Bill Ross has my email now so I'm sure the mystery of the "R" will be solved. The engine has ~6 hours on it.