Question for wiring experts or junkies - need connector

[mikey]

I'm looking for small circular connector ends that I can pin myself. The barrels need to be small diameter like the Aim 719 type. 2 pin is all I need but if the 4 pin 719 is all that is available I can use it. Just not my preference.

I need male and female ends.

the Aim 719 ends are available but appear to have the pins molded in so I cannot use crimped pins. I would have to solder my wires onto it.

[mikey]

Binder-USA is the actual source for the Aim ends I think. Solder pins.

[David Ferguson]

Is there a reason it needs to be circular? The Binder series (used by AiM) are pretty small, and there is not much rugged stuff near that size.

You might want to investigate Canon Mini-Sure Seal (MSS), the 4-pin variety is found on Stack and older Pi systems. But there is a relatively small 2-pin version.

You might look for other automotive grade connectors at Ballenger Motorsports, here is a link to the various 2-position connectors (BTW -- look for kits included terminals unless you just need housings):
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/ad...ways=2&ptype=1

[mikey]

Thanks Dave. It doesn't technically have to be round but it has to fit thru a 3/8" hole. It's a self-inflicted wound that stems back to my choices during dash construction. I need the connectors for the ends of the leads on two push button switches that unfortunately thru mount to the dash from the front side. But regardless of the dash, if I ever have to pull the wiring back thru the chassis then the subminiature size connector would help.

https://www.cartek-store.com/files//...%20Drawing.pdf

[Steve Davis]

I have always been amazed at how impossible (almost) it is to find small multipin AFFORDABLE connectors. While I was working, we had good luck with LEMO connectors. They are small, robust, relatively easy to use.. but EXPENSIVE. I salivate whenever I tear apart a piece of Japanese or Chinese gear. There are all kinds of nifty, small, cheap connectors in those things. Unfortunately, quite difficult to find any that are salvageable for use.

LEMO might do the job.. the problem is finding a place that can sell in small quantity. I guess most of the electronics shops (DigiKey, Mouser, etc) will have them, though.

Steve, FV80

[Rick Kirchner]

There are a couple of reasons connectors aren't affordable. In any given shell size there are often dozens of combinations of keys, key positions, and insert style. Especially when it comes to mil-spec and automotive, they want to ensure you don't connect two things that shouldn't be connected. That kind of kills volume production.

And there are more parts in those little things than meets the eye.

Digi-key is your friend (or enemy as sometimes figuring out everything you need for dozens of different types is daunting)

[tlracer]

Something to bear in mind is, the more robust the connector is, the heavier it is likely to be. This will put a strain on the wires if they aren't (or can't) be supported.

We use various connectors on portable laboratory instruments - Binder, Lemo, etc. - and whilst they're all very good in their own way, they are generally intended/designed for make/break use.

Where there is only very occasional need to break a connection, we tend to make it semi-permanent, eg.

- where it is highly unlikely to need breaking, but may be necessary in unusual circumstances, eg. if something is damaged, we will solder and heatshrink, leaving enough free wire to have access for separating. In the case of your switch, this looks to be around 2-3" max. given that the switch body itself is only 1.5" long.

- where a connection would need breaking, but infrequently, we use nothing more complicated than header pins/sockets. For your 2-wire switch this would need a connected pair of either part soldered onto the wires. Again it would need a short free length for ease of access and could be sheathed either in heatshrink or tight-fitting silicone tube (we have used both very successfully on instrumentation).

The benefit of either solution is minimal weight, so the wires and connectors have very little inherent load on them.

Take a look, too, at Molex connectors. Some of these are little more than headers with a latch, but they are very effective, simple, lightweight and inexpensive. Again we use them on things like small comms harnesses, battery pack connections, on/off switches, etc.

[mikey]

Found these JST connector kits also. Maybe an option?

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=360Pcs+2....f=nb_sb_noss_1

regarding the frequency of disconnect, probably 2-4 times per year max.

[DaveW]

If it doesn't absolutely need to be round...

How about two 1-wire male-female connectors of opposite gender side-by-side like I have on my Kubota dynamo held together by shrink-wrap? You could even stagger their position if side-by-side would be too large.
Link to Kubota post: http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/show...7&postcount=29

Or a small 2-wire male-female connector like what is used for the disconnect on battery-tenders, etc?

[lowside67]

Thanks Dave. It doesn't technically have to be round but it has to fit thru a 3/8" hole. It's a self-inflicted wound that stems back to my choices during dash construction. I need the connectors for the ends of the leads on two push button switches that unfortunately thru mount to the dash from the front side. But regardless of the dash, if I ever have to pull the wiring back thru the chassis then the subminiature size connector would help.

https://www.cartek-store.com/files//...%20Drawing.pdf

Based on what I think your constraints are, if I were in your situation, I'd use a simple, cheap, Deutsch DTM 4 pin connector, installed in situ. It won't fit through your holes, but it would be very easy to prep the switches on the bench including crimping the pins onto the wires on the bench, then put the switches into the car, and simply click the 4 terminals into the housing in the car. To remove, it is very easy to remove those terminals with simple tools so you can do so without needing to cut anything, etc.

-Mark

[Jerry Kehoe]

I found an assortment of connectors on Amazon that included individual bullet type units to 2,3,4,5,6 up to 9 pin connectors that were well made for our use. The best part is you can pick the multiple you need and they all match vs some from one, some from another. F1 quality certainly not but the entire box cost about $12. You can crimp or combination crimp and solder as required. The bullet connectors insulation is soft so easily worked with and certainly the capacity is plenty for most of our requirements.

[Ken Lawrence]

You might take a look at Weatherpac micro series. I have used them for 20 years with no problems, many types of sockets. Del City has been easy to work with.

[Rick Iverson]

Mikey;

Ray Grienke, the best wiring Gent on the planet.

[billtebbutt]

These may not be what you want, but I found these guys to be excellent suppliers of high quality vintage bike electrical connectors, and plenty of more modern stuff as well. I bought an assorted bullet connector kit (1-1s, 1-2s, insulators, etc) for a bit of work on my RD 350 and was really pleased with the parts. If any of you consider these for your race car (I am using them in the RF 90 rebuild as we speak), MAKE SURE you buy the special crimping tool for them. It is the only way to do the job properly, and you'll trash a couple practice connections learning how to use it, but after that your work will look totally professional.

cheers,
BT

[Pi_guy]

I have the AIM connectors in stock, they are a royal pain in the ass to build harnesses with.

My suggestion would be the Micro Deutch products expensive but solves the issues.