Nose "corner" repair

[BeerBudgetRacing]

Trying to figure put the best way to repair this corner.

Tried putty but it eventually just broke off - I know - too thick.

Attachment 99544

Pictures not great. The inside is intact.

Do I need to grind more away and they layup some glass or is there a 'better' way.

[swiftdrivr]

There are some epoxy putties with elasticity that might work, but grinding and glass seem more reliable

[Extreme1]

Try micro balloons putty. It’s used on dented aircraft surfaces because it’s lightweight and very strong. Amazon sells it.

[E1pix]

Putty could well work, but if spending money and time on paint, I’d glass it.

First, as with all such work, use Prep-Sol or other wax-grease remover (or mineral spirits in a pinch) on a clean dry towel, rag, or good paper towel to remove all contaminants that can be ground into the repair if not removed. Dry and buff all solvent off to fully remove contaminants. Sand as smooth and level as you can — inside and out — without removing excessive material, with 60- or 80-grit dry sandpaper. Prep-Sol entire area again, and dry,

Buy a woven-cloth fiberglass kit (not the chopped matte style), and cut glass pieces — a couple to exceed repair maybe an inch beyond, the rest slightly larger than the repair. Maybe half of them should be wrapped around the edge so long as it’s quite wet and free of air when folding over the edge (to trim clean and level later). Every job’s a little different but in time you’ll learn the best avenue.

Don’t be shy to use enough resin, too much does weaken the patch a bit, but too little or dry is worse.

Build up layers one at a time, always working the fibers in so no air gets underneath. Keep adding layers until the lowest point is well and certainly above the area surrounding the repair.

Let dry until almost hard, and use a flat, aggressive file to work things level. Then block sand to smooth with 60- or 80-grit.

To final-fill any imperfections, pits, or holes up to about a half-inch in size (*edit at bottom), I like BondoGlass, which is fiberglass resin and chopped mat glass fibers. Use a wooden paint stick, or putty knife to apply, and again file and sand.

Clean again with Prep-Sol, dry, sand smooth with maybe 220-grit or higher to remove the deepest scratches, and prime as soon as possible to avoid contamination, if merely from air. I like to wet-sand primer with 400-800 grit, but it’s been long enough since I did finish coating that you might experiment with, or better yet, research further.

* Edit — for holes, cracks, or other breaks where resin can leak through to the underside, Prep-Sol and sand the underside an inch or two beyond the repair perimeter, and firmly lay clear shipping tape on the backside. Press the resin or BondoGlass into the hole or crack from the outside, all of the fill above the base level of the surrounding area, then feel the underside to ensure the glass pressing against the tape is slightly “higher” than its surroundings. Remove tape backing only when fill material is thoroughly cured, then file and sand to surrounding level if you want a finished look on the underside as well.

[EricP]

Before having my body painted I did some spots like yours. A couple seemed bigger so I did some amateur fiberglass. The other I used a quality putty that was recommended. Prep was good for both but the putty just isn’t lasting. You’ll be happier with what E1 says above.

[99sh]

I recently discovered Totalboat totalfair marine epoxy. Easy to work with and looks like a quality product.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S9RBWIA/

[stownsen914]

As suggested, backing up the affected area with glass is a good idea for support. When I have to fill a larger area, I've had good luck with JB Weld, believe it or not. Stronger than putty and sands easier than you'd think.

[jrh3]

Grind back to original glass. West 403 fibers with epoxy or vinyl ester and glass cloth if a large repair . Shop towel to blot out excess resin.