Parts Washer and Solvent

[Rick Iverson]

Gents;

Recommendations for a good quality parts washer and good solvent.

[Rick Iverson]

Found this

[Rick Iverson]

Somebody stop me.

Moderators, may I trouble you to move this thread to General Formula Car Discussion, please?

My bad.

[Earley Motorsports]

That’s a good price. The problem is getting rid of the old solvent. It costs more to dispose of than buy.

[race14]

Here is what I use. And I contact my city's hazmat dept. every 3 months and they come and get the solvent.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...6596_200646596

That’s a good price. The problem is getting rid of the old solvent. It costs more to dispose of than buy.

[EYERACE]

I like what race14 uses too. Over time the odorless mineral spirits solvent can evaporate

[Pi_guy]

Here is what I use. And I contact my city's hazmat dept. every 3 months and they come and get the solvent.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...6596_200646596

Up here in NY you are limited with the amount you can dispose of in a year. If you dispose of too much the it leads to extra charges and an investigation from fire marshal.

[Rick Kirchner]

JP-8? has a pretty high flash point, doesn't stink as bad as diesel, available at your local FBO. Maybe make a housing for a really big K&N air filter and use it to filter the solution since you can clean the filter, or use something like bulk HVAC filter media

[jtaphorn]

Unfortunately, the parts washer you are considering is only made for aqueous cleaning solution. It is not safe for solvent based cleaner. I believe that you will be disappointed with only using a cleansing product like simple green.

If you purchase a solvent approved parts washer. This is the stuff to use, principally because it has very little odor.

Agitene - https://www.graymills.com/general-purpose-solvents.html

[Charlie Schmidt]

I use an inline plastic fuel filter in the hose before the brush.
Just cheapo 3/8 off fleabay, strains out most of the chunks

for disposal of solvent, I give it to a local truck shop it blends fine with all the oil they generate, and goes thru the oil fired heaters
tried to give it to parts store, they declined "it smells funny"

[sabre1fv]

I posted a similar question on solvent a while back on this forum and had several replies, which varied between aqueous based cleaners and a variety of solvents (including gasoline); each have their pros and cons. I do have and use a solvent tank like the one you pictured though it is an older unit intended for solvent use. My preferred solvent is a "Stoddard solvent" similar to Kerosene, but doesn't have the Kerosene odor, but it does have an odor. I have plumbed the output through an automotive oil filter to minimize the 'debris' that is in the solvent and is subsequently sprayed onto your parts. From what I have seen, the aqueous based cleaners will remove oils but those float on top of the solution and need to be removed somehow. The solvent based cleaners dissolve the oil/grease and that stays in solution, so when your parts 'dry', they actually have a thin film of oil on them which does seem to act as a moisture barrier. Your results may vary; solvent disposal may be an issue depending on where you live, as previously mentioned.

I do not know what, if any, hazards there are in using the aqueous based cleaners, but beware of the solvent based cleaners - the solvent likely WILL permeate your skin and that is a very bad thing. As with any strong cleaner, avoid contact where possible - use solvent resistant gloves - NOT those 'box of 100 Nitrile/Latex/whatever' gloves.

-Jim

[Rick Iverson]

My preferred solvent is a "Stoddard solvent" similar to Kerosene, but doesn't have the Kerosene odor, but it does have an odor....

.....I do not know what, if any, hazards there are in using the aqueous based cleaners, but beware of the solvent based cleaners - the solvent likely WILL permeate your skin and that is a very bad thing. As with any strong cleaner, avoid contact where possible - use solvent resistant gloves - NOT those 'box of 100 Nitrile/Latex/whatever' gloves

Jim;

You are correct correct. In my previous life, I was the State Safety, Occupational Health and Industrial Hygiene Officer for the MNARNG. The DoD stopped using Stoddard solvent decades ago because of the defatting nature on human tissue. Best practice is to get an MSDS when you buy any of solvent, read it completely and comply with its instructions to the letter.

[Skip Weld]

Rick, Tractor supply has something in 5 gallon cans that I really like. Works great in my old Safety clean cleaner. About $40 per 5 gal.
Our local county dump takes the used solvent as they do oil, paint, tires, batteries, etc.
Skip

[cory mcleod]

Unfortunately, the parts washer you are considering is only made for aqueous cleaning solution. It is not safe for solvent based cleaner. I believe that you will be disappointed with only using a cleansing product like simple green.

If you purchase a solvent approved parts washer. This is the stuff to use, principally because it has very little odor.

Agitene - https://www.graymills.com/general-purpose-solvents.html

I also struggle with the question of solvent rated vs. non-solvent rated parts washers. I know a non-solvent rated pump won't last when used with solvent, but have tried unsuccessfully on several forums to get a clear answer to why a non-solvent rated washer would be dangerous with solvent. The answers on Garage Journal seem to be at the extremes ("you will die" or "it's all BS, use whatever cleaner you want"), but never "here is why it is dangerous..." There are obviously people on this forum who understand chemicals, fire safety and personal safety - any responses would be appreciated.

Thanks, Cory

[Pi_guy]

I also struggle with the question of solvent rated vs. non-solvent rated parts washers. I know a non-solvent rated pump won't last when used with solvent, but have tried unsuccessfully on several forums to get a clear answer to why a non-solvent rated washer would be dangerous with solvent. The answers on Garage Journal seem to be at the extremes ("you will die" or "it's all BS, use whatever cleaner you want"), but never "here is why it is dangerous..." There are obviously people on this forum who understand chemicals, fire safety and personal safety - anyone responses would be appreciated.

Thanks, Cory

One possible is design of pump.
Use of o-rings and other sealant may not be petro chemical resistant.

The issue with GJ too many are cheap and lets skirt the rules it doesn't matter mentality....

[Charlie Schmidt]

I suspect at least some of the "non-solvent" units don't have the fusible link thingy to drop the lid in case of fire

[tlracer]

As well as seal materials, non-solvent cleaners may not have adequate isolation of electrical parts to prevent ignition of solvent fumes.

I have to admit I've always relied on Gunk and a brush for degreasing/cleaning, but more recently I started using M7 spray degreaser, especially on more awkwardly-shaped parts.

[jtaphorn]

In " the have to admit" category, I stepped up a few years back after using several parts washers and bought a Graymills unit.

It was one of those decisions that I should have made 30 years ago. It is wonderful to be able to properly clean and degrease parts very quickly with out using a spray can and brush out in the driveway.

I restore cars and associated parts as a hobby and it makes the task so quick and easy clean-up.

Even changing gear stacks in the Mark 8 between race weekends. Takes just a minute to clean the mid, rear case and stacks before reassembly. I just can't imagine going back to a spray can in my driveway.

[tlracer]

Unfortunately our council will not take solvent materials, which means my only option is through 'special waste'. This was a major factor in moving to M7, as the type I use is VOC-free, non-toxic and biodegradable.

[Ed Womer]

Remember when gas was what you used to clean parts? When the old cleaner solution I had evaporate/slowly was consumed, I ask my friend what he used at his shop and since not being an official business you can't get safety clean to service a personal garage, I switched to mineral spirits. Although it does work pretty good I had a lot of parts to clean and realized after words, that having my hands in mineral spirits for a long time was not what I was going to do anymore.

I did notice the stuff at Tractor Supply sells and I have always liked Simple Green, so when the mineral spirits becomes low I will have a decision to make as which way to go.

Ed

[stonebridge20]

This is what I use. I picked it up from a transmission shop going out of business a bunch of years ago, really cheap. It's pretty amazing what things go in looking like and how they come out.

Disclaimer: not my actual machine but a picture lifted off their website of the exact same machine.

[cory mcleod]

As well as seal materials, non-solvent cleaners may not have adequate isolation of electrical parts to prevent ignition of solvent fumes.

Thank you. This is what I've always wondered about non-solvent rated washers. Is there something about their construction that could cause a spark. Not as concerned about having a fusible link (I keep the lid closed when not in use), but always wondered if operating the pump or opening/closing the lid could cause a spark.