Friction material on centerlock wheel mating surfaces?

[Rondo]

No, not at all. Think splined half shaft...

So its basically a lock washer?

[t walgamuth]

No, not at all. Think splined half shaft...

Thanks Ron!

Sorry but I still don't see how it is installed. Is there another half that is basically mirror image of it?

[DaveW]

Thanks Ron!

Sorry but I still don't see how it is installed. Is there another half that is basically mirror image of it?

Yup - that's it.

[t walgamuth]

So one side would be attached to the hub the other the wheel?

[DaveW]

So one side would be attached to the hub the other the wheel?

Most likely that configuration would be machined into both so they would mate when assembled.

[jchracer]

So one side would be attached to the hub the other the wheel?

One ring of teeth would be machined into the wheel mounting face and a mating ring of teeth would be machined into the hub face. The teeth provide both axial, radial and torsional location once axial load from the stud is applied....hence no slop. Many turbine engine components are assembled in this manner.

[t walgamuth]

Thanks!

[Rondo]

Pretty trick......and I bet it ain't cheap!

[R. Pare]

From someone who was a left rear tire changer:

450 ft.lbs torque minimum - with 600 more normal. Small amount of dry moly spray only on the spindle threads - no other kind of lube anywhere else at all.

The rotor hat needs to be perfectly clean, as well as the wheel hub face - it also needs to be perfectly true and .001-.002" concave.

[Phil Creighton]

I agree with Richard
From the technical manual of a current GT car with similar nuts 800NM or 590 Ftl bs.Thats with alloy nuts.
Steel F1 style or Metalore nuts need 20% more torque.
Fretting to an extent is fairly normal as its rare to airgun wheel nuts accurately to a torque and you also want to be able to change wheels without a struggle. Once you really go through the anodizing its time to change them. Generally we see other wear issues before that in the attachment of the disc.
We lightly lubricate the threads with WD40 but some mechanics swear by a drop of brake fluid instead. You dont want a lube that dirt and brake dust sticks to!!!

[stownsen914]

Thanks guys for the additional input. (And thank you R Pare - always good to hear from someone who had hands on this stuff back in the day.)

Sounds like the torque value I've been using is a bit low. I'll try 600 ft lbs.

I've been using a WD40 corrosion resistance product for lube. It's a little different than regular WD40, basically it doesn't evaporate. From earlier comments in this thread, I was considering using a more substantial lubricant like never seize (it appeared that's what was on there when I got the car), but maybe I'll hold on that for now and try the higher torque value.

[R. Pare]

Current Dallara Indy car tread lube spec is the dry spray-on moly. You do not want to use any sort of liquid lubricant as it can and will attract and captivate dirt, which will both prematurely wear the threads, but also screw up the torque the nut is actually getting.

[stownsen914]

Current Dallara Indy car tread lube spec is the dry spray-on moly. You do not want to use any sort of liquid lubricant as it can and will attract and captivate dirt, which will both prematurely wear the threads, but also screw up the torque the nut is actually getting.

Thanks again. So a question. When I first started driving this car, I cleaned all the crud built up on the spindles (looked like anti-seize), and ran them dry. I noticed some corrosion starting after a short time, which I didn't like. So I started with the WD40. I wipe the hubs clean each time I have the wheels off and reapply the WD40 with a rag. If I'm careful to keep them clean, is it reasonable to believe I'll avoid issues with dirt?

[R. Pare]

That would probably work since you are maintaining it constantly, but personally I'd stick with the dry moly spray lube.