Sealing Tripod Joint Boots

[sabre1fv]

Looking for guidance on how to seal the boot for the triangular tripod housing. We seem to always have some grease escaping from these boots. We are using the small air bleed tube on the axle side of the boot, to prevent air pressure from building up inside the boot, and are using the tie wraps with the small metal 'tooth' to provide a stronger grip. The boot is properly nested onto the hub, and the tie wrap is nested into its relief on the boot, but still the grease is leaking out; the round hubs on the trans are not leaking at all. I don't think we are using too much grease, but any guidance on that would be useful too. We are using pliers to tighten the tie wraps.

Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

[BeerBudgetRacing]

??
https://www.primusracingparts.com/ga...ent_p_652.html

[sabre1fv]

Good thought: I appreciate the suggestion, and was not aware of this option, but it doesn't look like the grease is coming from the interface between the tripod hub and the wheel adapter - the grease does look like it is oozing out from the boot. The boots are in good condition and don't have any punctures/holes - we did have this problem and replaced the boot, but are still having a leakage problem.

Thank you.

-Jim

[BeerBudgetRacing]

I haven't seen the air bleed tube before. I always assumed too much pressure would fart around the seal with the driveshaft.
If air gets out I've got to assume grease is exiting there too. Is the bleed tube clean or greasy?
And does it leave a gap where it exists? I haven't seen these.

[sabre1fv]

To be honest, we originally didn't have the air bleed tube and the problem wasn't any worse; we thought we'd try the tube to see if it made any difference - I don't think it has helped. Essentially, it is a short section of one of the plastic tubes you get with spray cans like carb or brake cleaner. The boot itself has provisions for this - to locate the tube and keep it parallel to the axle, small details that aren't obvious unless you look - at least our new ones have this; the tube does not appear to be leaking grease. My presumption is that the centrifugal force is throwing the grease past the tie wrap. I will add that the grease I see inside the upright, has the same color (mostly) as the new grease when I lube the tripod bearings, so it isn't liquifying and then collecting dust and sticking to the inside of the upright.

How do you determine how much grease to pack into the housing? My original thought was we were putting too much in there, but there is plenty of space for the grease to move around, or so it seems.... ;-)

-Jim

[BeerBudgetRacing]

Not a huge amount:

https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/sho...=tripod+grease

https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/sho...=tripod+grease

[RussMcB]

I assumed most people used metal clamps (tightened by a special type of pliers), not tie wraps.

https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...amp-pliers-163

[Fred Michael]

The secret is to get the tie wrap tight and it is a challenge because of the triangular shape and the limited space. It takes a wide tie wrap, I think it's 4mm from memory. It takes a bit of trial and error to find the best way to get at it. I used a pick and long needle nosed pliers and kind of wound the tie wrap tail with the pliers while holding the receiver end of the tie wrap with the pick. Pre-cut some of the excess tail so that it doesn't start getting hung up on the upright.

Kind of a crappy description but I hope you get the idea

[sabre1fv]

Fred,

Good description! This is basically how we do it as well with the plastic tie wraps (approximately same width as you mention). So you don't have any leakage with this method?

I have found if you install the wheel nut on backwards, you can stand the axle on that end (vertical) to get better access to the tie wrap (entire assembly out of the car of course).

-Jim

[Bob Wright]

Having not seen a picture, but think its the same...on my F2000 I use safety wire with excellent results. It's a little tricky to get it on, but once tight, it stays on and there's no leaking. Also, I always use the vent tubes, but have never figured out if they do any good.

[Fred Michael]

Fred,

Good description! This is basically how we do it as well with the plastic tie wraps (approximately same width as you mention). So you don't have any leakage with this method?

I have found if you install the wheel nut on backwards, you can stand the axle on that end (vertical) to get better access to the tie wrap (entire assembly out of the car of course).

-Jim

It is definitely easier off the car.
Most of the time we had no leakage if we got them good and tight. Occasionally there would be some seepage but we just wiped it down. We also had them apart after just about every race, something that is probably not necessary unless you are running future Indycar drivers who are paying a whole lot of money for your services

[RussMcB]

I understand a tie wrap is more convenient, but is there a reason not to use the proper metal clamps?

[Fred Michael]

.

[Fred Michael]

This is what the tie wrap has to go around and approximately how it sits in the upright

[sabre1fv]

Fred Michael,

My wife would be real upset if I put my car parts on such a nice looking quilt.......... ;-0

Thank you for your input, it is helpful. Now I have another question for you: out of curiosity, I see that the tripod hub in the photo you posted has significant 'divots' from contact with the tripod bearings. How do you gage when to change them? I have asked several people and received replies that ranged from 'I shouldn't have that much wear' to 'debur it and keep using them'. Any sage advice?

Thanks again.

-Jim

[Fred Michael]

That one is about as bad as we let them get before we replaced them. The housings are definitely a wear item that you need to keep an eye on. Sharp edges develop where the tripod rides and it causes the tripods to wear prematurely