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Thread: New To PFM

  1. #1
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    Default New To PFM

    You may know that Im an impulsive idiot that recently bought a PFM, It turns out Im also a lucky idiot as I have also met a former Formula driver (Ford) that is going to help me get up and running in a safe manner. We are going to the track this Saturday and the plan is just to start up the PFM, run it through its gears and figure out what it needs then get familiar with the track in a Miata.

    I have a couple of basic question to the group here that could help me prep for first engine run and drive train check.

    1. What engine oil do you use in your car? (not everyone on the internet seems to agree although is seems synthetic should be avoided).
    2. Do you add any kind of oil or additive to the gas?
    3. Have you run your car on 93 octane (i know 100 octane is the recommended but some folks on the internet seem to run on 93)
    4. The pictured fitting seem loose on the drive shaft (i was able to wiggle it louse by hand) is this something to worry about?

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    Umm, there's an old adage that when you buy a used race car, you put it in the shop and tear it down to the frame. This serves two purposes: 1) you learn everything about the car down to the bolts and 2) you find out what's worn out or broken. There's nothing worse than taking a new to you used car out on the track and balling it up because there was something wrong with it.

    No used race car for sale should ever be advertised as "race ready" because a buyer might actually believe it...

    I would also find someone who knows the PFM and can advise you on all the things you will need to know before you start it, much less drive it...(after you tear it down and rebuild it)
    ----------
    In memory of Joe Stimola and Glenn Phillips

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    Senior Member Buc01's Avatar
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    Welcome to PFM. Best of luck getting the car going. (I run FC myself so sorry do not know the PFM quesitons)

    I noticed you are in Roundrock.

    Just thought I would mention the COMMA series at Hallett in Oklahoma.
    Usually several PFM (some new to PFM guys in there as well) show up to race there along with FM, FC, and F1000

    Race weekend entry is $ 320 for both days, 4 sessions on track.

    Not a long tow for some good racing. See link below

    https://www.hallettracing.net/events/comma/

    Aaron

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    Senior Member HazelNut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastFrog View Post

    1. What engine oil do you use in your car? (not everyone on the internet seems to agree although is seems synthetic should be avoided).
    2. Do you add any kind of oil or additive to the gas?
    3. Have you run your car on 93 octane (i know 100 octane is the recommended but some folks on the internet seem to run on 93)
    4. The pictured fitting seem loose on the drive shaft (i was able to wiggle it louse by hand) is this something to worry about?
    1. I ran T6 rotella in mine forgetting the weight off the top of my head
    2. yes. 2 stroke oil. 1 ounce per gallon of fuel.
    3. yes. 91-93 octane pump fuel fine. DO NOT RUN LEADED. (this is per Speed Source, they were the engine builders for the pro series)
    4. they do have play but not going to say if it's ok to run or not without personally inspecting it.
    Awww, come on guys, it's so simple. Maybe you need a refresher course. Hey! It's all ball bearings nowadays.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by HazelNut View Post
    1. I ran T6 rotella in mine forgetting the weight off the top of my head
    2. yes. 2 stroke oil. 1 ounce per gallon of fuel.
    3. yes. 91-93 octane pump fuel fine. DO NOT RUN LEADED. (this is per Speed Source, they were the engine builders for the pro series)
    4. they do have play but not going to say if it's ok to run or not without personally inspecting it.
    Thank you that is very helpful, and yes this is the internet so not expecting any guarantees just opinions from others with more experience, specifically if this should be friction held (tapped in place) or if something is likely missing or worn out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Buc01 View Post
    Welcome to PFM. Best of luck getting the car going. (I run FC myself so sorry do not know the PFM quesitons)

    I noticed you are in Roundrock.

    Just thought I would mention the COMMA series at Hallett in Oklahoma.
    Usually several PFM (some new to PFM guys in there as well) show up to race there along with FM, FC, and F1000

    Race weekend entry is $ 320 for both days, 4 sessions on track.

    Not a long tow for some good racing. See link below

    https://www.hallettracing.net/events/comma/

    Aaron
    very cool, I may check that out but for now my plans are more towards a track day toy rather than racing.
    Last edited by FastFrog; 03.09.21 at 1:59 PM.

  7. #7
    Senior Member HazelNut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastFrog View Post
    Thank you that is very helpful, and yes this is the internet so not expecting any guarantees just opinions from others with more experience, specifically if this should be friction held (tapped in place) or if something is likely missing or worn out.
    the splined output shaft/coupler/tripod housing/boot/axle assembly as a unit should just slide into the transaxle. I’m a few cars passed my PFM so memory is a little fuzzy. I’m not sure if there was a retaining ring or not (on the splined output shaft). I might be thinking of the newer car.
    Awww, come on guys, it's so simple. Maybe you need a refresher course. Hey! It's all ball bearings nowadays.

  8. #8
    Senior Member David Ferguson's Avatar
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    That loose ring you have is the wheel speed trigger ring. I believe it should be tack welded to the output flanges.

    I recently worked with a customer with a new-to-him PFM. I asked a few folks about operating parameters for the engine and was given this info:

    Max water temp, 225, min 165, optimum is about 205.
    Max oil is 235, min 165, best efficiency is 200-210. No real damage will occur 140-165 just not real efficient.
    Oil pressure should be minimum 110 lbs operating temps 165+.


    David Ferguson
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Ferguson View Post
    That loose ring you have is the wheel speed trigger ring. I believe it should be tack welded to the output flanges.

    I recently worked with a customer with a new-to-him PFM. I asked a few folks about operating parameters for the engine and was given this info:

    Max water temp, 225, min 165, optimum is about 205.
    Max oil is 235, min 165, best efficiency is 200-210. No real damage will occur 140-165 just not real efficient.
    Oil pressure should be minimum 110 lbs operating temps 165+.


    Looks like you are spot on, I cleaned up the rings on both sides end inspected closely and yes tack welded is how they are attached. Thank you!

  10. #10
    Contributing Member mikey's Avatar
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    Had a PFM for several years. I ran Idemitsu oil in the dry sump and Idemitsu pre-mix oil at a ratio of 1-2 oz per gallon of Sunoco 98 Octane race fuel. Have heard plenty of owners say they ran on 93 octane without issue. You MUST run the pre-mix oil because the RX-8 had oil injectors for the street car that were removed from the PFM race-version engine configuration.

    The toothed wheel you're holding is a trigger for the speed sensor. If it is rotating about the shaft then it could come off and cause damage. If the whole shaft is rotating, then you've got play that probably isn't normal and should be checked by someone who knows what they are doing before you run it.

    Good luck. Hope you or your buddy do a very thorough safety inspection and don't risk your life while thrill seeking. Things can happen very quickly in a PFM and you don't want to end up on an unwitting ride that you won't enjoy.

  11. #11
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    What kind of stand do you guys use for the PFM's, where does it rest on the stand and how do you hoist it up?

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