Bodywork repair guide and Van Diemen question

[alangbaker]

Back in May of 2019, my Van Diemen RF98-2 and I got driven over by a rookie in a Lotus 23 who wasn't completely clear on what it meant to overtake someone by braking a little later than your competitor. I'll take my part of the blame because I wasn't careful enough checking my mirrors immediately before turn-in, and... ...I had been his instructor the prior year to get his licence in the first place.

Long story short, I turned in, he was far too optimistic about his chances for passing and he and the Lotus, hit me after I'd already turned nearly 30 degrees of the hairpin and ended up going right over top of me with the roll bar keeping my head (mostly) free from being hit by his right rear tire. Fortunately, no damage was done to me at all (thank you very much, Bell Helmets; brand new that year ) and the car bent a few suspension arms and the side panel bodywork got a little crunched immediately below the roll bar (see attached; the front shock cover got cracked too). And I used Gorilla duct tape to make repairs that got me through the season, and all through last season.

But I think it's time to do something more permanent.

What I think I'd like to do is to build a section of mold for that area of the side panel while everything is buttoned up and the shape is therefore correct, then pull the mold off, reform the damaged section back to a smooth surface, replace it on the (now removed) side panel and complete the repair with appropriate materials from the inside.

Does anyone have a resource for a procedure like that they could recommend?

Does anyone have any useful thoughts on my vague plan?

And...

....does anyone know what variations there are the Van Diemen bodywork?

Looking around online, I see that the sidepod tops that peoplle sell for VDs like mine always seem to have a small section (perhaps two inches) of vertical bodywork at the rear that mate with the engine cover coming down. My sidepods don't have that vertical "tab", but simply end with the horizontal surface, which my rear bodywork comes down to meet at 90 degrees (with a couple of dzus fasteners; see attached).

Does anyone know where I might source more pieces built like that?

[JHerscher]

Hi Alan

I don't think I'd try to make a mold of the bodywork for this repair. What I would do is go inside the damaged bodywork with some racing tape to hold it all together and prevent resin from getting inside. Then button it all up and get a right angle 1/4" die grinder (Lowe's or Home Depot or HF). Cheaper is better - there's a lot of dust here. A 2" sanding disk kit and some 40 grit disks and have at the outside of the bodywork. You'll make a huge dusty mess but you can probably keep it under control if you're careful. Grind away paint and gelcoat about 1" from the cracked and damaged bodywork.

Take some fiberglass mat and tear it into about a dozen pieces about 1/4 the size of the total damage. I mix the resin according to instructions unless its hot (like here in FL) or cold (like in Canada). Then I adjust the amount of hardener accordingly. I have gone as low as 50% of the recommended ratio and as high as 130% depending on temperature. I'm talking polyester here. Epoxy requires more precise mixing. I take a 1" disposable chip brush, wet out the piece, add the first patch piece, wet it, add the second, overlapping the first patch by about 10% with the rest on the part, and continue til I'm done. If you see any low spots, tear off some more mat and add to bring it up to level. Don't worry about high spots yet. You're aiming to be a little proud of the target surface.

A tech tip is to under estimate the amount of resin needed and when you run out, just mix a new batch in the same pot. That way you don't over mix. If it starts to go off in the pot, mix the next batch with 25% less hardener.

Once finished, a heat gun can be used to encourage the repair to "kick" and harden.

Masking paper minimizes the resin getting where its not supposed to.

Once done, pull the side panel off, grind away at the inside until you are level with the original surface. The 40 grit is fine. If it's a big repair area, a 40 grit flap disk on an electric 4" right angle grinder works fast! A single layer of mat on the ground out area inside if you're nervous. You don't want to build up too much material.

Flip to the other side and grind to close to the target surface. Then switch to a hand sander with 60 grit and sand with an "x" pattern to keep things level.

A great body filler or fairing compound is Q Cells. They make a lightweight, water resistant fairing compound that sands more easily than Bondo. Mixes with your resin. Measure the resin, mix the Q Cells to get a peanut butter consistency paste, add hardener according to how much resin you measured. You probably will need about 1/2-1 oz and 2-4 tbs Q Cells. Apply with plastic spatula Never use Cabosil unless you want to sand for the rest of 2021. Sand with 80/150/220. Prime, fix pinholes with glazing putty, sand with 220, reprime, reglaze missed spots, etc. Finish sand with 320. Finish paint.

I clean up with acetone, use empty yogurt cups for mixing, and a clean used aluminum pie tin for body filler. They sell small measuring cups (8 oz size) at some paint stores and for sure at fiberglass stores.

Making a mold will be in my opinion twice the work and expense.

Good luck
John

[Messenger Racing]

You have the standard 98 bodywork. Many run the 99 and later bodywork. Is that one of the Quantum cars with a Honda?

[Rick Iverson]

John;

Masterful, my friend.

Hi Alan

I don't think I'd try to make a mold of the bodywork for this repair. What I would do is go inside the damaged bodywork with some racing tape to hold it all together and prevent resin from getting inside. Then button it all up and get a right angle 1/4" die grinder (Lowe's or Home Depot or HF). Cheaper is better - there's a lot of dust here. A 2" sanding disk kit and some 40 grit disks and have at the outside of the bodywork. You'll make a huge dusty mess but you can probably keep it under control if you're careful. Grind away paint and gelcoat about 1" from the cracked and damaged bodywork.

Take some fiberglass mat and tear it into about a dozen pieces about 1/4 the size of the total damage. I mix the resin according to instructions unless its hot (like here in FL) or cold (like in Canada). Then I adjust the amount of hardener accordingly. I have gone as low as 50% of the recommended ratio and as high as 130% depending on temperature. I'm talking polyester here. Epoxy requires more precise mixing. I take a 1" disposable chip brush, wet out the piece, add the first patch piece, wet it, add the second, overlapping the first patch by about 10% with the rest on the part, and continue til I'm done. If you see any low spots, tear off some more mat and add to bring it up to level. Don't worry about high spots yet. You're aiming to be a little proud of the target surface.

A tech tip is to under estimate the amount of resin needed and when you run out, just mix a new batch in the same pot. That way you don't over mix. If it starts to go off in the pot, mix the next batch with 25% less hardener.

Once finished, a heat gun can be used to encourage the repair to "kick" and harden.

Masking paper minimizes the resin getting where its not supposed to.

Once done, pull the side panel off, grind away at the inside until you are level with the original surface. The 40 grit is fine. If it's a big repair area, a 40 grit flap disk on an electric 4" right angle grinder works fast! A single layer of mat on the ground out area inside if you're nervous. You don't want to build up too much material.

Flip to the other side and grind to close to the target surface. Then switch to a hand sander with 60 grit and sand with an "x" pattern to keep things level.

A great body filler or fairing compound is Q Cells. They make a lightweight, water resistant fairing compound that sands more easily than Bondo. Mixes with your resin. Measure the resin, mix the Q Cells to get a peanut butter consistency paste, add hardener according to how much resin you measured. You probably will need about 1/2-1 oz and 2-4 tbs Q Cells. Apply with plastic spatula Never use Cabosil unless you want to sand for the rest of 2021. Sand with 80/150/220. Prime, fix pinholes with glazing putty, sand with 220, reprime, reglaze missed spots, etc. Finish sand with 320. Finish paint.

I clean up with acetone, use empty yogurt cups for mixing, and a clean used aluminum pie tin for body filler. They sell small measuring cups (8 oz size) at some paint stores and for sure at fiberglass stores.

Making a mold will be in my opinion twice the work and expense.

Good luck
John

[Richard Hybels]

Never heard of it but here it is

https://greenlightsurfsupply.com/pro...-filler-powder

[alangbaker]

Hi Alan

I don't think I'd try to make a mold of the bodywork for this repair.

...

I clean up with acetone, use empty yogurt cups for mixing, and a clean used aluminum pie tin for body filler. They sell small measuring cups (8 oz size) at some paint stores and for sure at fiberglass stores.

Making a mold will be in my opinion twice the work and expense.

Good luck

Thank you, sir! That sounds like a solid plan!

You have the standard 98 bodywork. Many run the 99 and later bodywork. Is that one of the Quantum cars with a Honda?

You have it precisely. I THINK the car was the one converted to Honda power for Dan Layton (coincidentally work for Honda). Serial number 2545, and if you know anything about those cars, I'd love to know it, too.


As always, Apex is awesome!

[JHerscher]

Glad to help Alan

Note on tearing versus cutting. Cutting is neater, but tearing means the edges will interlock better and you get a more contiguous repair.

A note on fiberglass mat. The stuff at Home Depot may be a heavier weight than you might need. I think its close to 1 1/2 oz per sq yd. A careful person can separate the mat into two plies and get a product that is two pieces of about 3/4 oz per sq yd. If my explanation isn't sufficient, think of separating 2 ply toilet paper into two separate plies.

Note on grinding.

Always wear a dust mask and eye protection, and I wear an old long sleeve shirt with the sleeves buttoned and gloves. I've used stripping gloves and the knit gloves with the rubber palms with good effect. I also have a set of those gloves with the 18" long cuffs used by vets to reach in and turn a calf for delivery when I have a lot of grinding to do. Setting up a fan on behind or beside you to blow the dust away is a good idea as well. Obviously it is set on "high speed"!

A good sweat (like from a good workout) the next day or the same day after you shower the dust off will make sure any itchiness is minimized.

John

[Messenger Racing]

Does it look kind of like this one I added to my stable last week?

Drop me a PM with your contact info and we can compare notes!.

JM

[alangbaker]

Note on tearing versus cutting. Cutting is neater, but tearing means the edges will interlock better and you get a more contiguous repair.

A note on fiberglass mat. The stuff at Home Depot may be a heavier weight than you might need. I think its close to 1 1/2 oz per sq yd. A careful person can separate the mat into two plies and get a product that is two pieces of about 3/4 oz per sq yd. If my explanation isn't sufficient, think of separating 2 ply toilet paper into two separate plies.

Note on grinding.

Always wear a dust mask and eye protection, and I wear an old long sleeve shirt with the sleeves buttoned and gloves. I've used stripping gloves and the knit gloves with the rubber palms with good effect. I also have a set of those gloves with the 18" long cuffs used by vets to reach in and turn a calf for delivery when I have a lot of grinding to do. Setting up a fan on behind or beside you to blow the dust away is a good idea as well. Obviously it is set on "high speed"!

A good sweat (like from a good workout) the next day or the same day after you shower the dust off will make sure any itchiness is minimized.

Oh... ...I DO understand the need to cover up for fiberglass repairs. I'll probably have to the grinding outside of the shop I'm sharing with another guy.

[tstrong]

Oh... ...I DO understand the need to cover up for fiberglass repairs. I'll probably have to the grinding outside of the shop I'm sharing with another guy.

Great idea unless you don’t want to be sharing the shop any longer. Todd

[Earley Motorsports]

Great advice from John. That is the proper way to repair it.