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  1. #1
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    Default open wheel setup

    Okay Folks,
    What would you do first , set ride height or corner weights
    Thanks
    Dee

  2. #2
    Grand Pooh Bah Purple Frog's Avatar
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    Default

    Usually you go back and forth about 6 times.
    Ride height.
    Corner weights.
    Rinse and repeat 5 more times.

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  4. #3
    Contributing Member DaveW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee View Post
    Okay Folks,
    What would you do first , set ride height or corner weights
    Thanks
    Dee
    Froggy beat me to it, but...

    It's an iterative process.

    As a starting point, set ride height about where you want it with the chassis level side-side, and then change weight balance by making equal but opposite adjustments on the 2 sides at one end. Then to keep the chassis level, make similar (depends on wheel rate) but opposite adjustments on the other end of the car.

    Check chassis level and weight balance again, and repeat until you get it where you want.
    Dave Weitzenhof

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  6. #4
    Contributing Member Lotus7's Avatar
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    on the multiple iterations :-)

    And be aware that, depending on the suspension design, changing ride heights might alter camber by a measurable amount...
    and putting the camber back where you want it might alter the toe settings ...

    etc etc etc
    Ian Macpherson
    Savannah, GA
    Race prep, support, and engineering.

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  8. #5
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    One trick I use when I do setups is to set the toe to zero and then take my measurements. Next make the changes I need to and reset toe to zero, then measure again. Once all the other measurements are spot on, I set the toe to what ever I want.

    Tires can be a big issue in getting a precise setup. After you do your alignment, change the tires side to side. You will be very lucky if you don't have to make more changes to get back to what you want or had with the tires in the original position. My solution to this issue is to do the alignment with a system that does not include the tires. I use a flag system and have the car on chassis stands with wheels and tires. I replace the shocks with struts that set the suspension to the ride height I want to run. The big advantage to this system is that I can do it by myself standing up. The suspension is unloaded so all the adjustments are much easier.

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  10. #6
    Contributing Member DaveW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotus7 View Post
    on the multiple iterations :-)

    And be aware that, depending on the suspension design, changing ride heights might alter camber by a measurable amount...
    and putting the camber back where you want it might alter the toe settings ...

    etc etc etc
    The key to all this is to determine what affects what. Then do it in an order that minimizes affecting what you did before. Not too hard to figure out if one puts a bit of thought into it.
    Last edited by DaveW; 02.13.21 at 9:22 PM.
    Dave Weitzenhof

  11. #7
    Contributing Member DaveW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S Lathrop View Post
    ...Tires can be a big issue in getting a precise setup. After you do your alignment, change the tires side to side. You will be very lucky if you don't have to make more changes to get back to what you want or had with the tires in the original position...
    I always make sure the tires are as similar as possible (diameter, inflation pressure, etc.) side-side. That's one of the advantages of using radials - tire-to-tire variations are minimal as long as the pickup, etc. is cleaned off or they're new. You just have to pay a bit more attention to those details with bias tires.
    Last edited by DaveW; 02.13.21 at 7:42 PM.
    Dave Weitzenhof

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