Super Vee water pump pulley

[apex944]

Can anyone describe the function of the cylindrical / conical nose that appears on all Super Vee water pump pulleys no matter the engine builder? (the part to the left of the gilmer wheel in the foto below)

eg:


thx

[Dee]

You have a water pump on the right the teeth are for the drive belt the item lower left is a through out bearing used on the water cooled super vees
Hope this helps
Dee
Penske rt5
Swift 016

[apex944]

Hope this helps
Dee

Nope. I am asking what the cylindrical and cone shaped "nose" (on the left) was needed for on SuperVees... I have one of these pumps in my GT car and have always wondered why they were made this way.

To be more clear, I'm referring to the nose on the pump shaft. Not the other parts in the photo.

[Thomas Wirtz]

I have 2 Super Vee motors and each has a different water pump drive belt pulley. One similar to the one shown.
The difference between the two has to do with the crankshaft pulley that drives the water pump. Basically for belt alignment.

[Tom Fraelich]

Nope. I am asking what the cylindrical and cone shaped "nose" (on the left) was needed for on SuperVees... I have one of these pumps in my GT car and have always wondered why they were made this way.

To be more clear, I'm referring to the nose on the pump shaft. Not the other parts in the photo.

The "nose" is part of the one piece pulley. The aluminum pulley is hollow on the rear portion (where the drive is) to fit over the nose of the water pump. This allows the pulley to sit in the correct position to align with the drive pulley on the camshaft. The tapered "nose" portion you're referencing is the area of the pulley that actually presses on to the water pump shaft. It's reduced area (mass) in that area is both weight saving and makes it easier to warm up when assembling onto the steel shaft of the water pump. You'll notice there's no set screw or key so the shrink fit is critical to keep from spinning the pulley on the shaft.

[apex944]

Tom, thank you. This does explain a few things to me. Previously I had thought the taper had some function on the SV I was not aware of... like clearancing something I could not see. I'm looking to make up some spare pumps for my Prod car which uses an old Bertils pump.

[Tom Fraelich]

Tom, thank you. This does explain a few things to me. Previously I had thought the taper had some function on the SV I was not aware of... like clearancing something I could not see. I'm looking to make up some spare pumps for my Prod car which uses an old Bertils pump.

No problem. You'll notice from your dimensioning that the front of the water pump has to be machined to accept the SV style pulley. The material removed makes room for the "hollow" section of the pulley. Not sure how you drive the water pump on a GT car but on the SV setup it's driven from an additional pulley added in front of the cam belt pulley.

Tom

[Bob L.]

Any idea for a source on the pulley shown? Have them on a couple of SVs, wanted to build up a spare pump to have. Found my lathe chucks not deep enough to fit the housing in (shaft and impellor hang out chuck side), so, may be a while before I modify/build any.... Still need to source similar/same, driven sheeve...pulley for pump.

Bob L.

[Tom Fraelich]

Any idea for a source on the pulley shown? Have them on a couple of SVs, wanted to build up a spare pump to have. Found my lathe chucks not deep enough to fit the housing in (shaft and impellor hang out chuck side), so, may be a while before I modify/build any.... Still need to source similar/same, driven sheeve...pulley for pump.

Bob L.

Since you're handy with a lathe, these folks have pulley bar stock you can make a few from yourself, or modify one of their off the shelf aluminum pulleys. I'll check and see if I have any spares in the shop next week.

Tom

Industrial Timing Belts & Pulleys Polytech Design Inc Clifton NJ 07011 (polybelt.com)

[Bob L.]

Thanks, Tom. Looked over that site after you posted link on another thread. Didn't find anything I "wanted". Don't think alum. best approach as think mine are steel, with flanges, pressed onto the pump. Of course, could redo mounting method (with a bit of engr'n), but rather find something that matches/duplicates those originals flanges.

(Yep have a cheap lathe/Bridgeport/TIG, .....DROs, no rotary table...can't say how handy, but do try.....hands on engr. vs. real machinist/welder.)

So far, haven't counted teeth or dia. on mine. Will recheck material, too.




edit....checked: mine appears to be alum. Wouldn't have thought that, with it simply shrunk on shaft.



Planning on trip to Moultrie next Sat. for Swap meet....not too far from ya, if around...

Bob L.

[Tom Fraelich]

Thanks, Tom. Looked over that site after you posted link on another thread. Didn't find anything I "wanted". Don't think alum. best approach as think mine are steel, with flanges, pressed onto the pump. Of course, could redo mounting method (with a bit of engr'n), but rather find something that matches/duplicates those originals flanges.

(Yep have a cheap lathe/Bridgeport/TIG, .....DROs, no rotary table...can't say how handy, but do try.....hands on engr. vs. real machinist/welder.)

So far, haven't counted teeth or dia. on mine. Will recheck material, too.




edit....checked: mine appears to be alum. Wouldn't have thought that, with it simply shrunk on shaft.



Planning on trip to Moultrie next Sat. for Swap meet....not too far from ya, if around...

Bob L.

Bob: I checked my spares while I was up at the shop. I have several of those pulleys, still on water pumps, in the drawer. If you don't want a new one from Alistar I'll get you one of my old ones, you can warm it up and pull it off the pumpo shaft yourself. That'll also give you a good pattern for maching your own pump front casting.

Tom