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  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    Default Open wheel helmet?

    Since I'm in the process of acquiring a Vee, I was wondering how folks choose their brain buckets. My older helmets were for closed cars, no aero or anything. The few times I drove friends sports racers, above about 100 MPH the lift on the helmet was pretty heavy.

    So since the SA 2020 stuff is coming, how efficient are the various duckbills and spoilers on helmets? The ones with extensions under the front, for example - are you usually so far down in the cockpit that doesn't matter? Do is it a good thing? For helmets with upsweeps on top, are they any better than Supergluing some plastic strips or vortex generators on the helmet?

    Of course, I'm talking about a Vee, so unless I somehow end up at Daytona maybe I don't need anything fancy? :-)

  2. #2
    Contributing Member scorp997's Avatar
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    07.14.06
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    Default

    the lower duckbill on my helmet (Bell K1) tends to hit the buckles on my harness when using the HANs and full pads. Makes it difficult to look down into the cockpit and I found myself 'craning' my neck forward which resulted in a stiff neck after the weekend. I have since modified the pads on my HANs to not reach so far down on my chest and it works much better. I did have a discussion with the people at HANs who mentioned the padding is for comfort more than protection - though if you run without any it rubs on my collarbone. My seating is pretty reclined and I use a 40deg HANs, your seating will vary and determine if it is an issue.

    I have also been told that Bell allows trimming the duckbill and says it doesn't compromise the strength. I would say the upper spoilers do more than the lower ones and will take that into account when I purchase my next helmet.
    -John Allen
    Tacoma, WA
    '82 Royale RP31M
    (‘72 Royale RP16 stolen in 2022)

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  4. #3
    Senior Member Westroc's Avatar
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    Default helmet

    First off for my personal head it's always been a Bell and a Simpson suit. The suit must have as much thought given to it as the helmet. Maybe more! The lower duck bill is quite effective enough for me. Where I got into concern was the venting. The last thing I want is for dirt to be recirculated over and over inside it until it gets into my eyes. Especially in Vee. Guys will get a wheel off alot and you will eat it so ask about that. Also there are alot of guys in the upper reaches wearing carbon something or other. Do you need it in Vee. Nope.
    JIM (2006 GLC CFC Champion)

  5. #4
    Contributing Member problemchild's Avatar
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    Default

    As John points out, you should be more worried about getting a helmet and HNR (and belts) that will work together in your car. Most FVs have a laydown seating position. People that are bigger, or have short necks, or big chests, or numerous other physical features may have challenges. The mandatory HNR rule ended any hope of me driving a current FV. I have found a few FFs that I can drive with the right helmet and HNR. I would try and borrow some gear to try before buying. I bought 4 HNRs before I found something manageable. The HANS was the worst. The hybrid the best.
    Greg Rice, RICERACEPREP.com
    F1600 Arrive-N-Drive for FRP and SCCA, FC SCCA also. Including Runoffs
    2020 & 2022 F1600 Champion, 2020 SCCA FF Champion, 2021 SCCA FC Champion,
    2016 F2000 Champion, Follow RiceRacePrep on Instagram.

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  7. #5
    Senior Member
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    For open wheel racing, I go with whatever the best safety protection is for a helmet. That means a 8860-2018 rated helmet for now. I have had enough things hit my helmet and visor that cost isn't a major consideration when it comes to head protection. Beyond that, I look at whatever is most comfortable.

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