Dustless Blasting

[Rick Iverson]

Gents;

It is that time to get my chassis stripped, have some tidbits welded on, then re-powder coated.

I have read stories here of heat warpage when dry media (e.g., 30/60 garnet) is used to remove powder coat, and I am definitely not a candidate for that.

I called a local dry media blasting company to get some technical details, and I am supremely confident this is not the way to go. He gave me the company’s where he purchases his media (Cesco, 843.760.3000), and I talked with one of their technical support people in Tim.

After explaining the details of what I was doing, and the necessity to reduce as much heat as possible, he recommended “Dustless Blasting’. Although he did recommend using an abrasive under low power to “profile” the chassis surface for better coating adhesion, dustless was the best approach.

I called a company in Enterprise Alabama, and he explained dry media applies 100F above ambient temperature. Dustless blasting is a process where water is introduced into the media pressure hose or nozzle, and substrate temperatures are 10F BELOW ambient.

Anyone familiar with this method? Thoughts?

[John Nesbitt]

Dry ice blasting, maybe?

[Rick Iverson]

Dry ice blasting, maybe?

Now that's an excellent idea.

[JHerscher]

I haven’t used it but I understand that the liquid contains rust inhibitors. Also it is often used to media blast sheet metal panels (ie hoods, fenders, etc.) by car restoration shops. It helps minimize warpage.

[R. Pare]

I think that he is trying to sell you something that is way more expensive than what you need - more profit for him. Straight baking soda or walnut shells will do the job very well - standard medias for use on CF and fiberglass panels.

Warping steel tubes CAN happen when using something like Black Beauty media, but the blaster really has to try hard to get that done - the warping problem is a lot easier to do on sheet metal panels, but still can be avoided if the blaster has a clue about what they are doing.

[Rick Iverson]

I called a local dry ice blaster, and was informed it is extremely difficult if not impossible to remove powder coat with dry ice.

Dry ice blasting, maybe?

[Rick Iverson]

RP;

I have a few options in Ft Walton Beach (dry abrasive), Navarre (water infused abrasive) and Pensacola (dry).

The last time I did this, I used an outfit north of the Twin Cities that was FAA/Mil-spec certified. Does a lot of stuff for the 133rd Air Wing in Minneapolis. It came out really nice, but cost me and arm and a leg.

I do not know any of these businesses, and with trust hard to find these days, I tend to be, say, overly cautious. I may just order a couple gallons of the “old” Klein-Strip Airplane Paint Remover and get the vast majority off. Finish with a light dusting of dry media.

No no clue as to what I will pay to have the chassis stripped with dry media, but if within reason, might just take a shot on the water business.

I think that he is trying to sell you something that is way more expensive than what you need - more profit for him. Straight baking soda or walnut shells will do the job very well - standard medias for use on CF and fiberglass panels.

Warping steel tubes CAN happen when using something like Black Beauty media, but the blaster really has to try hard to get that done - the warping problem is a lot easier to do on sheet metal panels, but still can be avoided if the blaster has a clue about what they are doing.

[Charlie Schmidt]

Last time I did a frame, a local shop did it using glass beads, but that was regular paint. Not sure how beads do with powder coat...

Will stripper get enough powder coat off to be worthwhile?

If you go with water, will you be able to get it all out of the tubes after? ---assuming there are some open rivet holes, etc

[Neil_Roberts]

Gents;

It is that time to get my chassis stripped, have some tidbits welded on, then re-powder coated.

Powder coat is thick enough and pliable enough to hide cracks. A thin rattle can coat eliminates that risk. Even better is clear furniture lacquer. It is brittle enough to crack before the frame does, so it shows you where the metal flexes most. It is also dirt cheap and goes on with a brush.