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  1. #1
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    Default Tripod housings: can you safely "touch up" the races?

    I've got my RF98 Van Diemen's drive axles apart for inspection (yes: for the first time in two seasons). It's got 26mm thick aluminum tripod housings with steel shells for the "races", and some of them are looking lightly damaged.

    I've got three new shells coming for the worst of the damage, but that will probably still leave me with a couple of shells that aren't pristine, so my question is:


    1. Can I safely "hone"/"sand"/??? the inner surfaces to remove any small irregularities?
    2. How large a "divot" in the surface is safe? Is any divot depth at all safe?


    I managed to get through two race seasons without disaster, but knowing what I know now, I'd like to make sure that I'm not courting disaster by racing on less than pristine parts. The previous owner causes some issues that I can see (at least, I think it was him) by running the tripods at angles that led to the actual tripod colliding with the drive flange on the upright (I can see the divots in the aluminum); I assume that this was the result of not making adequate adjustments to the car when FF switched from bias to radial tires, but I can't be certain.

  2. #2
    Classifieds Super License stonebridge20's Avatar
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    REM-ISF process them.
    Stonebridge Sports & Classics ltd
    15 Great Pasture Rd Danbury, CT. 06810 (203) 744-1120
    www.cryosciencetechnologies.com
    Cryogenic Processing · REM-ISF Processing · Race Prep & Driver Development

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by stonebridge20 View Post
    REM-ISF process them.
    I appreciate the thought...

    ...but I think my issues are a few more thou' that REM-ISF can cover.


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  5. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by alangbaker View Post
    I've got my RF98 Van Diemen's drive axles apart for inspection (yes: for the first time in two seasons). It's got 26mm thick aluminum tripod housings with steel shells for the "races", and some of them are looking lightly damaged.

    I've got three new shells coming for the worst of the damage, but that will probably still leave me with a couple of shells that aren't pristine, so my question is:


    1. Can I safely "hone"/"sand"/??? the inner surfaces to remove any small irregularities?
    2. How large a "divot" in the surface is safe? Is any divot depth at all safe?


    I managed to get through two race seasons without disaster, but knowing what I know now, I'd like to make sure that I'm not courting disaster by racing on less than pristine parts. The previous owner causes some issues that I can see (at least, I think it was him) by running the tripods at angles that led to the actual tripod colliding with the drive flange on the upright (I can see the divots in the aluminum); I assume that this was the result of not making adequate adjustments to the car when FF switched from bias to radial tires, but I can't be certain.
    hey Alan ,
    I’m not sure if it’s the same issue as normal CV joint wear , but back in my VW days on my street cars , I’d swap the joints from one side to the other , so the wear wasn’t on the “ driven” face anymore, and get more mileage out of an otherwise worn joint . Might work for this weekend at least ?

    Mawds

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by flattop414 View Post
    hey Alan ,
    I’m not sure if it’s the same issue as normal CV joint wear , but back in my VW days on my street cars , I’d swap the joints from one side to the other , so the wear wasn’t on the “ driven” face anymore, and get more mileage out of an otherwise worn joint . Might work for this weekend at least ?
    I'm definitely thinking about that, Mawds.

    Get rid of the high burrs, flip the joints to the other side and we're (probably) good.

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  8. #6
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    For only $17, I would replace them.

    https://www.primusracingparts.com/26...-50_p_877.html

  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneWayOut View Post
    For only $17, I would replace them.

    https://www.primusracingparts.com/26...-50_p_877.html
    Money isn't the problem: time is.

    I actually have 3 of those coming to replace the only ones I thought were damaged... ...but then I notice there was a bit more to it.

    So now I'm trying to figure out how I get through the weekend... ...this weekend.

  10. #8
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    Default Discovered something important: the wheel size

    It turns out that some 30-spline 23.5mm GKN tripods have wheels that are just a TINY bit larger than some others.

  11. #9
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    Bump.

    Has no one else noticed this?

    I got a new tripod from Primus back when I bought the car to have as a spare, and when I dropped it into my existing aluminum housing with steel shells it was an easy fit where the original had to be forced just a little into the... ..."races", I guess(?).

    How easy should that fit be? Has anyone else found that some tripods have rollers that are just a little larger?

    I can't give you exact numbers yet, but when I take them apart next week, I'll give you the exact diameters.

  12. #10
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    Unless they are worn in the middle of the length, just turn them around on same side and go with it?

    john f

  13. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by john f View Post
    Unless they are worn in the middle of the length, just turn them around on same side and go with it?

    john f
    That's essentially what I did.

    I cleaned up the burrs and ridges on the inside of the shells with some 80 grit cloth wrapped around a deep socket, then used some scotchbrite to polish them. Then ran them that way.

    Next time in the garage, I'm going to disassemble them and see how everything looks just to double-check...

    ...and also to measure the diameter of all three sets of tripod rollers, as some are definitely larger than the new one I had purchased as a spare.

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