Folks on Apexspeed have created how-to manuals and videos detailing a Hewland gear change.
Anyone have something like this for a Staffs? Or is it so close to doing a Hewland that it's not worth creating something different?
Thanks,
Folks on Apexspeed have created how-to manuals and videos detailing a Hewland gear change.
Anyone have something like this for a Staffs? Or is it so close to doing a Hewland that it's not worth creating something different?
Thanks,
Jim
I wish I understood everything I know.
I use the same principles for all gearboxes - Staffs, Mk8, Mk9 (when I had one), Webster.
It's been over a decade since I changed gears in the Webster but the Mk 8 and Staffs have been done back to back, with nothing different that I recall (other than the drawbolt install and alignment on the Mk 8)
Garey Guzman
FF #4 (Former Cal Club member, current Atlanta Region member)
https://redroadracing.com/ (includes Zink and Citation Registry)
https://www.thekentlives.com/ (includes information on the FF Kent engine, chassis and history)
On the Staffs it is recommended to torque the pinion nut when you have it apart and secure it with red loctite. The recommended torque is 240 ft lbs.
The nuts on the pinion and layshaft do not have cotters and are recommended to be torqued to 120 ft lbs and use blue loctite.
Otherwise generally similar to a MK series.
Garey Guzman
FF #4 (Former Cal Club member, current Atlanta Region member)
https://redroadracing.com/ (includes Zink and Citation Registry)
https://www.thekentlives.com/ (includes information on the FF Kent engine, chassis and history)
Never used loctite on my staffs pinion, never had it come loose either (i'm using 80/100ftlbs)
I used the attached documents for guidance on torques etc.
Taylors Staffs - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T-s...ew?usp=sharing
Original Staffs manual - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9J...ew?usp=sharing
Thank you all for the useful information.
Jim
I wish I understood everything I know.
Great links, thanks for the reference info!
I think Steve was talking about the back nut. It's number 19 on page 5 of the manual you posted, the "crownwheel and pinion" shaft nut, at the back when you remove the gears. That nut is more likely to come loose in the higher horsepower cars, like a DB4 FA.
Garey Guzman
FF #4 (Former Cal Club member, current Atlanta Region member)
https://redroadracing.com/ (includes Zink and Citation Registry)
https://www.thekentlives.com/ (includes information on the FF Kent engine, chassis and history)
Brakekleen and a rag under the part in the box. Brakelkleen on the nut and jel loctite.Befroe I did this it would have to be retorqued every 2 weekends. Also, If you do Lee Williams method, check with him to make sure that you do not need to change anything else to make up for the lower clamp force holding the pinion in. It is easy to do: Just machine the ID of the pinion nut to be a slip fit on the pinion shaft.
The Staffs in my old Atlantic car got a cleaning with a set of internal and external thread chasers, a couple of shots of brakeclean and then one drop of red loctite in the middle of the nut threads on every gear change. Pinion nut got checked every time the box got opened.
I race a club Ford, drink beer and eat lots of chips at the race track now.
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When you re-loctite the main pinion bearing as Steve mentioned . Make you clean all the Loctite off of the top of the nut before you install the bearing carrier . If not , you will develop some new cuss words next gear change when you realize the 1st /rev hub is stuck to the pinion bearing....
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