Won't rev past 6500ish
Hey guys got my PFM on track today. It won't rev past 6300-6500 on track feels like an electronic limit. It starts limiting earlier the higher gear it seems but hard to tell can feel it coming on.
In the paddock I can rev it to like 7500-8000 but also sporadic, it seems to studder and want to kill it at full throttle.
I don't have the motec plug so I'm screwed there I guess. Car was converted to aim.
Any tips on what to look for?
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Front left speed sensor isn't picking up properly if that may help..
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Are the oil and water all up to temp prior to running? Almost sounds like "limp mode" when cold.Originally Posted by Jamesbe
Yup I was concerned it was that. But water was at 195 and oil is at 165. Funny I can't get it hotter cause I can't go fast enough.
Someone suggested crank sensor so I'm working on checking the tolerance on that now.
Caveat on temps is they are from aim
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Hard to believe it's a crank sensor, my experience is they work or they don't.
Any chance it's something weird like a rag stuck deep in the inlet choking the flow?
Ian Macpherson
Savannah, GA
Race prep, support, and engineering.
My PFM got real goofy similar symptoms. A week of troubleshooting. Pit limiter switch had gone bad. Unplug or depin it and report back.
Also could be weak coils or bad plugs.
Vacuum hose fell off the intake for the secondary valves. She's flying now! Engine sounds totally different than it ever did.
Thanks.
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And now it makes no noise.
This hose blew apart off the accumulator. Looks like a chinese plastic hose I don't know but the fitting is still where it should be. Lost oil pressure, 1 corner later i shut it down but it didn't sound good.
I lost oil for about 5 corners but light didn't come on immediately at least I didn't notice it.
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Where did that hose come from? Are you running the later style external oil filter and regulator?
Not sure. That hose goes from the engine to the accumulator / regulator.
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That's a Goodridge $$$$ aramid over PFTE hose. Looks like it failed in the crimp, maybe from the hose being twisted after the fitting was tightened.
Similar I'll have to double check eveything but my regulator is on the opposite side of the filter.
The regular then plugged into the engine block where that green hose is going in the diagram.
I think the rest is the same. Obviously the hoses would be different is routed differently as they wouldn't reach. The green hose looks much longer than the one that broke.
Interesting to know it's an expensive piece. It's possible it fatigued over time. I had no leaks nothing then bam.
I have to clean up oil from everywhere, it's also pissing fuel out, I think from the lower fuel rail. This also just started, something popped I think.
My friend use to be a mechanic for a pro team he was helping me today via facebook chat and helped me solve some other issues.
He thinks the engine may be ok but I'm not as hopeful guess time will tell.
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Hopefully the motor is OK. You should check your alarm settings on your dash. Oil pressure is one that I do not allow it to go away unless I acknowledge the alarm. Sample the channel at the highest frequency available and set the alarm trigger a threshold about 20 pounds below normal. If you find it going off too often and you could change the parameters. But the oil leak system in that car is usually rocksteady, it doesn’t dip up and down under normal circumstances.
Not sure which dash you have, but on AIM I make every lights start flashing on a serious alarm like oil pressure. You can also set up an engine shut down if you lose pressure.
Yeah the light came on when pressure dropped. The light actually would be on at idle and off when on track so it was set well.
From the time the line blew to the time I noticed the light was about 10 secs. I then frantically hit buttons on the dash to find out why the light was on, what's the pressure? Is it 70psi and just dumb or what and it was 1. So thinking back I should have killed it right there and then. But didn't see anything in mirrors or anything.
Turned 1 more corner saw smoke then looked for a place to park it.
So total time 20-30 secs I would say from when the hose went. Maybe 15 from when I saw the light.
I have my doubts engine is fine trying to get the data from temps now.
I'm also looking at data and seeing power was significantly lower than I would expect even before all this happened. Despite everything running smooth and feeling great. I hit a max of 110mph on the backstraight. I was 120mph in my 130hp can Diemen!
I couldn't catch a older formula Mazda either... I did have the fuel on rich but that seems excessively down on power
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Just glad no fire
Yeah that's the best thing I guess.
Not sure where I stand now. I'm not rich, I expect to fix things but was expecting the big expense to be 5 years from now on a rebuild not immediately.
Debating selling as is, or parting or rebuilding, but I'm at a cut my losses stage in life...
22k usd ? New gearbox new engine may need rebuild
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figure out what's up before throwing in the towel. at least run a compression check on the motor. a good used motor is only the price of 1-2 race weekends really, if you do the removal and installation yourself. rebuild would be equivalent to maybe 3 weekends. you're going to take a much bigger loss selling as-is than if you repair it and then sell it if you still want to let it go.
I'll keep thinking. Everything is double the cost for canadians so really screws everything.
I race for "free" as I have a deal with the track so I really am on a shoestring budget.
Race weekends for me are fuel and wear on car.
I have a friend that was an engineer for M1 racing in the pro series he's willing to help a little but he's busy. This year is a write off. Next race is next week, first race was cancelled then 1 race in july and August.
Likely focus on my Spec miata for the remainder of this year. Huge bummer.
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