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  1. #1
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    Default torquing trailer wheels

    Bought new tires for the trailer [ 14' enclosed duel axle, 15" wheels] I think the studs are 1/2"
    Suggested wheel nut torque ?

    Thanks,
    Will

  2. #2
    Classifieds Super License stonebridge20's Avatar
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    There should be a small sticker on the wheels with a torque spec.

    1/2" stud is 75-85 foot pounds
    Stonebridge Sports & Classics ltd
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  3. #3
    Contributing Member Steve Demeter's Avatar
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    Also, retorque them after about 30 miles then after about another 50 miles. If they still move, check after another 50 miles and retorque as needed. At least that is what the instructions that came with the axles on my Wells.

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  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Demeter View Post
    Also, retorque them after about 30 miles then after about another 50 miles. If they still move, check after another 50 miles and retorque as needed. At least that is what the instructions that came with the axles on my Wells.
    I find myself forced to ask:

    Do you do that with your car's lug nuts?

    What would make a trailer's different?

  6. #5
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    Why yes I do do that with my BMW, F250 and trailer lug nuts.

    Had the lug nuts on one front wheel loosen on my then new 1970 F100, destroying studs and the wheel . . at about 3000 miles since new. No I hadn't taken the wheels off or changed the tires.

    Loose lug nuts on my 88M3/Fittipaldi wheels as they regularly changed shape. . .until one broke.
    Loose lug nuts on my 86 Suburban as its wheels steadily changed shape after 200,000 miles. Not a problem there as the aluminum factory wheels tended to seize to the hubs. Built a "wheel puller' after the first time it happened on Cinnamon Pass in Colorado.

    I torque the truck and trailer lug nuts before every long trip. The 2016 F250 factory wheels don't tend to loosen.
    I suspect trailer wheels have greater impact loading as they don't have shocks. Someone can expound on that.
    I occasionally find a trailer lug nut has loosened.

    I re-torque wheels after having a shop rotate and balance. Every few years I find the tire shop didn't do them to my satisfaction...

    Perhaps my experiences are not typical, but with enough failures I've become gun shy.

    YMMV, I'm sure you will have fantastic luck compared to me, Ha.

    I'm in the garage unintentionally breaking things today. At least I didn't break anything at the track yesterday. Hoorah!

    Stay safe, Jim

  7. #6
    Member madgameracing's Avatar
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    For a 1/2" stud, etrailer.com recommends 90-120 ft-lb for steel wheels and 90-100 ft-lb for aluminum wheels.

    https://www.etrailer.com/question-266483.html

    Mike

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    Classifieds Super License stonebridge20's Avatar
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    So, the side loads created by 2 axles about 24" apart with neither being able to pivot, creat some massive side loads when not going in a strait line. That tends to squeeze out and or crush any crap/rust between the wheel and the hub that got there when the wheel was taken off. Once that crap/rust is gone or crushed, the two mating surfaces are not clamped down properly. Same deal as not ever bolting two painted surfaces together. The paint gets mushed and now the fastener isn't stretched properly and can loosen.
    Last edited by stonebridge20; 05.09.20 at 11:25 PM.
    Stonebridge Sports & Classics ltd
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  10. #8
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    Picked up a trailer and before I could get my torque wrench out, they whipped out a Dewalt battery powered impact. Several ugga duggahs later, the lug nuts are on tighter than the sticker listed torque that matches the above link at etrailer. I haven't backed them off to see how much they actually are. Last time I let someone else torque lugs was at a car dealer service and the 250ft/lbs was in excess of the 81ft/lbs spec. I threw those lug bolts away. Hopefully battery powered ugga dugga is less than air powered ugga dugga.

    Look at the lug torque for your size studs and torque according. Follow the retorque after a few miles as recommended. I guess they figure too tight and stretched studs is better than a wheel coming off. Trailer wheels see some abuse.

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  12. #9
    Contributing Member Hawke's Avatar
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    On our race cars, we spend a lot of time with all nuts to ensure they dont undo. Jet nuts, nylocks, split pins etc. But we use wheel nuts with no secondary restraint. Why not?

  13. #10
    Contributing Member DaveW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by madgameracing View Post
    For a 1/2" stud, etrailer.com recommends 90-120 ft-lb for steel wheels and 90-100 ft-lb for aluminum wheels.

    https://www.etrailer.com/question-266483.html

    Mike
    120 is w/o lube. If you lube the nuts, stick with the lower value.
    Dave Weitzenhof

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  15. #11
    Contributing Member EYERACE's Avatar
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    A while back I made a point of finding lugs that were entire caps of the studs so no threads or ends are exposed and used a lot of anti-seize on the threads..........why is this man smiling?

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  17. #12
    Contributing Member Steve Demeter's Avatar
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    Alan,

    I do check my car after a few days just in case.

    The loads on trailer bolts are much higher than the typical street car.

    Following the checks I outlined without fail I find at least one bolt loose at the first two rechecks.

  18. #13
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    Thank you all for the information.

    Will

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