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  1. #1
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    Default Disconnect switches

    Just thought I'd throw this out there.

    In my FB feed there was an ad for this company and within a couple of clicks got to their page of battery disconnect switches. While expensive, it seems like a lot of these are much better than the bosch/hella stuff most of us use.

    I went through one of the standard red handle switches about every 3-5 years. Eventually the combination of contact buildup and vibration causes them to start bouncing and if you have an electronic dash that's pretty much the kiss of death. The car will usually keep running but the dash will either lock up or re-boot all the time. Last time this happened to me it was a very expensive flaming river switch that lasted something like 4 weekends. I had to swipe the original Lucas unit off of my 1972 FSV and it's been working fine at 47 years old!

    However, if you don't have access to an item made when people still knew how to make stuff last, you might look at the items here. What impressed me was that they actually had the specs for shock and vibe. Haven't been able to find that on any of our usual products.

    https://peerlesselectronics.com/prod...connect-switch

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  3. #2
    Senior Member t walgamuth's Avatar
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    Default

    Which switch did you like best?

  4. #3
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    Default

    This one for the price: https://peerlesselectronics.com/prod...connect-switch

    But this one can handle 10g of vib, and that's pretty significant: https://peerlesselectronics.com/prod...connect-switch

    What I'd really like to find is some shock and vib specs on the usual Hella, Bosch, and Lucas stuff for comparison

    vib not vic %^&$ing autocorrect!
    Last edited by Rick Kirchner; 12.13.19 at 11:02 PM.

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  6. #4
    Senior Member t walgamuth's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner View Post
    This one for the price: https://peerlesselectronics.com/prod...connect-switch

    But this one can handle 10g of vic, and that's pretty significant: https://peerlesselectronics.com/prod...connect-switch

    What I'd really like to find is some shock and vic specs on the usual Hella, Bosch, and Lucas stuff for comparison
    I'll have to see if that will fit in my car.

  7. #5
    Contributing Member mikey's Avatar
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    Default

    I went off the deep end and got a MSEL solid state relay battery disconnect. Now I don’t have to remember the red key before strapping in.
    Last edited by mikey; 01.28.20 at 4:29 PM.

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  9. #6
    Contributing Member DanW's Avatar
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    Default

    The Kissling switches are German made and IP 67 sealed. I'd replace my Hella with this one.
    https://peerlesselectronics.com/prod...connect-switch
    “Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty.” -Peter Egan

  10. #7
    Classifieds Super License BeerBudgetRacing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikey View Post
    I went off the deep end and got a CARTEK solid state relay battery disconnect. Now I don’t have to remember the red key before strapping in.
    That looks really nice. Are they SCCA legal?
    Is the external kill button shielded from debris shutting you down?
    With a system like that it would be nice to have 2 external kill switches.

  11. #8
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    Why do you need a high amp master switch? I thought those went out years ago.

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  13. #9
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dereklola View Post
    Why do you need a high amp master switch? I thought those went out years ago.
    I've never measured, just keep using the ones that fit the mounts. But I'd sure like one that doesn't start bouncing after two seasons.

  14. #10
    Contributing Member mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing View Post
    That looks really nice. Are they SCCA legal?
    Is the external kill button shielded from debris shutting you down?
    With a system like that it would be nice to have 2 external kill switches.
    theyre FIA legal. Not sure about SCCA. The external push button is normally closed momentary type so you can wire two or three in series and press any one. I plan to have mine flush with the bodywork so not likely anything can hit it on track. If it does, I can cycle the dash switch to reset it.

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  16. #11
    Contributing Member mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dereklola View Post
    Why do you need a high amp master switch? I thought those went out years ago.
    for the plastic key type you don’t. Just hookup to relay like you had Derek. I wanted the MSEL because it will auto disconnect if there is a main battery over-current situation.
    Last edited by mikey; 01.28.20 at 4:32 PM.

  17. #12
    Contributing Member RussMcB's Avatar
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    Default

    I can't vouch for the quality of this one, but I've always liked the idea of a quick push kill switch. This Longacre switch has worked well for me so far. Maybe I should carry a spare just in case. They are $30 on ebay.

    https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...2&d=1553954381

    https://www.ebay.com/i/381304153414?...yABEgL9fPD_BwE
    Racer Russ
    Palm Coast, FL

  18. #13
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    You don't need to isolate the battery. All the rollbar switch has to do is shut the car off.

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