3D printed fun

[Rick Iverson]

Gents;

Thought of a retail idea. If you take a look at late model Van Diemens, there are aero thingies moulded into the coachwork that precedes the leading and trailing A-frame pickup points.

Now look at the mid year cars. Plenty of places to mount a well designed and produced piece(s) that provide a teensi-weensi bit of aero benefit. What do you think?

[Rick Kirchner]

easy enough to do. Maybe a fairing in front of the cutoff switch. Made some A-arm jigs last week. Printing a catch bottle holder now. Next project is a box for all the electrical connections, the AIM tach amp, and the protection circuitry for it.

[Rick Iverson]

Here

Could be a money maker.

[Jamesbe]

Yeah maybe. They take forever to print though. I made one of our local track with elevation.

Be faster for production to cut from wood with a cnc

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[Mike B]

Here

Could be a money maker.

They make nice keychains, too.

[RSS]

Here

Could be a money maker.

Everyone knows the real money is in Turtles!

[Rick Kirchner]

Catch bottle holder and insulator for starter post

Filler attachment for a flow-fast pump. If you've used one of these, though they are easier to use than a funnel and jug, the 1/2" PVC pipe on the end of the hose fills a formula car filler neck sufficiently that the air can't escape well as the cell fills, often leading to a big "throw up burp". I designed this to screw onto a standard VanDiemen fill pipe (1.5" x12 TPI). The fuel flows through the 7/17 center pipe and exits about 1.5" down into the neck. The air escapes around the outside. if you overfill the funnel holds the extra until you crank it back into the jug.

Ignition Box - sort of inspired by the old Lucas boxes on a Cosworth DFX. Inside is the coil, six terminal blocks, the amplifier for the dash tach signal, and the protection circuitry for that amplifier. Replaced the mess shown in the other pic.

Last item is an input shaft mount for an Accu-level module. I have a lifting/leveling device I use to make splitting the car easy, but on re-assembly you need to get the angle between the engine and the gearbox just right. I put the level on top of the valve cover and read the angle, then put it on the input shaft and set the leveler to match. was always awkward holding the thing in place. This one has the splines to hold the adapter in place and magnets to hold the level to the adapter.

[Mike B]

Filler attachment for a flow-fast pump. If you've used one of these, though they are easier to use than a funnel and jug, the 1/2" PVC pipe on the end of the hose fills a formula car filler neck sufficiently that the air can't escape well as the cell fills, often leading to a big "throw up burp". I designed this to screw onto a standard VanDiemen fill pipe (1.5" x12 TPI). The fuel flows through the 7/17 center pipe and exits about 1.5" down into the neck. The air escapes around the outside. if you overfill the funnel holds the extra until you crank it back into the jug.

Would you mind sharing the .stl or the original solid model?

[Rick Kirchner]

sent

[AVR_Shane]

Taking a stab at a few things, I've offered some of my prints (and capable prints) up for sale. For those of you interested in how I went about doing these, specifically the elevation tracks, shoot me a PM I would be happy to share my design process with you.

Easier to link my site rather than posting all the pictures here...

http://www.gladiatorroadracing.ca/3d-printing.html

[alangbaker]

Taking a stab at a few things, I've offered some of my prints (and capable prints) up for sale. For those of you interested in how I went about doing these, specifically the elevation tracks, shoot me a PM I would be happy to share my design process with you.

Easier to link my site rather than posting all the pictures here...

http://www.gladiatorroadracing.ca/3d-printing.html

Very nice, Shane!

But this sentence baffled me:

All large tracks are made with a minimum of 1/2", and are approximately 3/8" (unless track is especially long).

I literally have no idea what you mean there.

[AVR_Shane]

Very nice, Shane!

But this sentence baffled me:

All large tracks are made with a minimum of 1/2", and are approximately 3/8" (unless track is especially long).

I literally have no idea what you mean there.

Ha! Yes I do believe a few more descriptive words would help there. I'll fix the site, but in the meantime...they are minimum HEIGHT of 1/2", and are approximately 3/8" in WIDTH.

Thanks for pointing it out!

[Rick Kirchner]

Brackets for the crane parts, alignment bars, and my rear clip lifter/leveler. Most of these fit the clip-in 2x4 shoring mounts for E-track. All made from the cheapest Amazon PETG I could get as it took 2KG of stuff to make these and a couple of prototypes to get the dimensions right with the mounts. The crane brackets hold 80 lb.

[Rick Kirchner]

I made up this little piece thinking of Iverson's comment about little aero bits, but also because I had this transponder cleaned off the car once and had to send it to Australia to get fixed. So this is a bit of a streamline device as well as a debris deflector.

I have a couple iterations to go to get it right, might have to slice it with Cura instead of S3D because they have a feature that changes the line spacing on curved surfaces to improve surface finish.

This was printed in PETG but I was surprised at how brittle this particular brand was - I got the dimensions of the little hook/tab at the bottom wrong and it snapped right off. So I might print the final version in either ABS and do an acetone polish, which really toughens the stuff up, or Nylon.

I also printed this attenuator for the nose box, basically to fit a pour-foam item that just fit too tightly. Well, I got the dimensions a bit too good and this one is even tighter! So I've been having to sand the crap out of it. I'd re-print it but it took about 3/4 of a kg of Atomic Carbon Fiber PETG and that wasn't cheap. This was made with a monster 1mm nozzle and has hexagonal infill and is incredibly tough. Sooner or later I'll make similar items for the area around the wing tube.

[openwheeler37]

Any chance you'll be making more of these and putting them up for sale on your site? I would def be in for a RA and Blackhawk one,

They make nice keychains, too.

[openwheeler37]

I like the idea of the transponder protector / aero bit. Any interest in producing more for sale?

I made up this little piece thinking of Iverson's comment about little aero bits, but also because I had this transponder cleaned off the car once and had to send it to Australia to get fixed. So this is a bit of a streamline device as well as a debris deflector.

I have a couple iterations to go to get it right, might have to slice it with Cura instead of S3D because they have a feature that changes the line spacing on curved surfaces to improve surface finish.

This was printed in PETG but I was surprised at how brittle this particular brand was - I got the dimensions of the little hook/tab at the bottom wrong and it snapped right off. So I might print the final version in either ABS and do an acetone polish, which really toughens the stuff up, or Nylon.

I also printed this attenuator for the nose box, basically to fit a pour-foam item that just fit too tightly. Well, I got the dimensions a bit too good and this one is even tighter! So I've been having to sand the crap out of it. I'd re-print it but it took about 3/4 of a kg of Atomic Carbon Fiber PETG and that wasn't cheap. This was made with a monster 1mm nozzle and has hexagonal infill and is incredibly tough. Sooner or later I'll make similar items for the area around the wing tube.

[phantomjock]

Here is an idea that might be useful for some of our 3D print enthusiasts. [I'll wager all your friends have some too...]

Flag mounts are available for full size flags, but few available for the smaller 12x18 inch flags. I've found aluminum brackets that hold 3 of these, and relatively cheap (5--6 bucks).

Unfortunately, they must be mounted with screws. This is something the county disapproves of on our light poles.

See photo 1:

With a similar device, shown below, individual flags could be mounted using oversize "Jubilee" clips - aka hose clamps. They could be mounted to light poles, mailbox supports, trailer hitch, etc,. Several could also be mounted in combination if desired. The material should be UV stable. To secure the stick in place, a cotter pin would be inserted into a small hole drilled (after printing) through the mount and stick. This action would be performed by the individual consumer. The ID of the tube should accommodate the nominal 3/8 inch diameter poles (sticks) of these flags.

See CAD rendering:


No FEA has been accomplished, just shade tree engineering and TLAR (That Looks About Right).
Gussets may be required or perhaps fillet the tube to the plate. Suggest some prototype testing might be in order. I'd be happy to participate.
My quick CAD file is available as a step/stl/etc if needed.

Cheers - Jim

BTW - I'd take quite a few at the right price point. My neighborhood has 13 poles just "begging" for a flag.

[Rick Kirchner]

The trade here is strength vs material type vs material quantity. Kind of an interesting optimization problem.

Given what you see with wind load on a flag I'd probably do a "loft" from a big diameter to a small diameter (sort of making a volcano shape) before parting it at an angle and then joining it to the flat base.

Outdoor use would require ASA (a more UV stable form of ABS) or Nylon. Nylon is expensive and a bitch to print though.

An alternative would be to print a base for the aluminum mount to screw to (actually, I wouldn't use screws, I'd thru-bolt it with a captive nut and large diameter washer or a backing plate to spread the load through the plastic). T-nuts work too.

I'm thinking the mount would use less material and print faster and be much less susceptible to print direction and flaws.

[Mike B]

Any chance you'll be making more of these and putting them up for sale on your site? I would def be in for a RA and Blackhawk one,

Sent you a PM.

[Mike B]

I had some red PLA to use up and some time to kill before the turkey was ready so I made some more keychains.

[mikey]

I had some red PLA to use up and some time to kill before the turkey was ready so I made some more keychains.

these would also hang nicely on a small Christmas tree in the garage or office

[AVR_Shane]

Here's what I've been printing recently. Been working at multi-coloured prints a little more

[Rick Kirchner]

This weekend I tried printing with flexible filament - TPE, which is a medium durometer urethane. Pretty good results - followed the instructions from the manufacturer and produced 4 perfect parts - likely the best I've ever made.

Two were pieces for a fridge handle - GE wants $100, have to buy the whole aluminum and plastic handle, as opposed to the $5 plastic piece.

The other two were sealing rings for holes in the roof of the MoHo.

I think I could print some simple seals and gaskets now - even a urethane bead on top of a cork gasket.

[Mike B]

This weekend I tried printing with flexible filament - TPE, which is a medium durometer urethane. Pretty good results - followed the instructions from the manufacturer and produced 4 perfect parts - likely the best I've ever made.

Two were pieces for a fridge handle - GE wants $100, have to buy the whole aluminum and plastic handle, as opposed to the $5 plastic piece.

The other two were sealing rings for holes in the roof of the MoHo.

I think I could print some simple seals and gaskets now - even a urethane bead on top of a cork gasket.

Did it require unique settings or special handling?

[Rick Kirchner]

not at all. FAR easier than PETG.

[Rick Iverson]

What about winglets with Gurney lips?

[Rick Kirchner]

I will get to wing endplates a bit later. next job is to re-make the inside cooling ducts of a RF90-96, making them out of about 4 pieces of ABS glued together.

[Jamesbe]

A week of printing, I still have to glue in the wires etc. But it's better than I imagined. It's 16x16 inch

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[hdsporty1988]

Over the years I have found many things I decide to print. Granted, nothing real structural but I find things I "need" to print all the time. It can get out of hand. Camera mounts, alignment bar parts, storage brackets, phone mount parts, radio mount, etc.

I have also found the press-in (with a hot soldering iron) threaded inserts to be handy. I don't print or tap any threads in the printed parts.

I use a nice pro printer at my work place. I did purchase a Prusa Mini for future work at home. It was under $500 but I have not got it yet. I'll know in about 8 to 10 months how useful it will be. There is a lot to learn. The pro machines are surprisingly fool-proof to use.

Jim

Jim, you made some very cool items! You ever think about offering for sale? I think there would be a market. Bruce

[Jamesbe]

Should have waited till it was really done. Now it looks polished.

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[phantomjock]

Glad I didn't spend that spare money Granpa gave me on Neon School!

[Jim Nash]

Jim, you made some very cool items! You ever think about offering for sale? I think there would be a market. Bruce

Thanks Bruce. I enjoy coming up with the designs. I think selling things sounds too much like work. And, as much as I fuss over the final designs I would have to charge way too much!

Jim

[TrackBrat]

Thanks Bruce. I enjoy coming up with the designs. I think selling things sounds too much like work. And, as much as I fuss over the final designs I would have to charge way too much!

Jim

What is the red bit you have in the dash? I am curious what is all you have printed for the SRF. Curious as I am running a Gen 2 myself.

[BeerBudgetRacing]

What is the red bit you have in the dash?

It's a map holder

[Jim Nash]

What is the red bit you have in the dash? I am curious what is all you have printed for the SRF. Curious as I am running a Gen 2 myself.

It goes back a few inches and I put my glasses in it while I am putting my helmet on or taking it off in impound, etc. For as long as I have been racing I always belt in and then put my helmet and gloves on. It's easier to do on your own if you need to.

Jim

[TrackBrat]

It goes back a few inches and I put my glasses in it while I am putting my helmet on or taking it off in impound, etc. For as long as I have been racing I always belt in and then put my helmet and gloves on. It's easier to do on your own if you need to.

Jim

That is a great idea! I wear glasses too and always putting them places. What is your schedule for racing down at RA or Blackhawk? I would love to check out all the little gizmos you have added to your car.

[Rick Kirchner]

mid-90s VD inner radiator ducts. Multi-piece glued part. Checking interfaces with test prints now. Last iterations will include a good transition at the back to force air through the rad instead of going out the back and/or requiring a lot of foam fillers, and some fastener access for the bolts that hold the sidepod top on.

[RSS]

Started to build the molds for making fiberglass wing endplates.

[Mike B]

I recently bought an AIM steering wheel with paddle shifters. I can't use the paddles in P2 so I made a cover to seal the opening on the back of the wheel.

[AVR_Shane]

Here's my latest iteration of elevation tracks. I added a white background to them with a multicoloured logo in the middle of the track. Been going through and printing all the tracks I've raced on.

Also, for something different, printed a Pikes Peak (haven't been there) track map with mile and elevation markers