3D printed fun

[Rick Kirchner]

I have a roll of Nylon 6 and a roll of black ABS I'm saving for some good stuff. Both are Kodak 750 g spools. I'm going to start playing around with PTEG again. Early on when I used the stock slicer settings I had so much adhesion that I destroyed 4 build plates. I understand Z offset a bit more now, so I can hopefully play around trying to tune it without creating other problems. I'm going to start with a huge Z and sneak up on getting just enough adhesion.

[Jamesbe]

Weird petg usually has the opposite problem.

I use feeler gauges to set my z height.

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[dereklola]

Rick - look nice - but with all due respect I think one can get a better and neater solution with just the 2 tie-wraps.
If the lines, or wires, are more or less in-line then one tie-wrap loosely round both tightened with the second one as a "belt".
If they are at an angle then one tie-wrap round each linked together like a chain. Derek.

[Rick Kirchner]

Rick - look nice - but with all due respect I think one can get a better and neater solution with just the 2 tie-wraps.
If the lines, or wires, are more or less in-line then one tie-wrap loosely round both tightened with the second one as a "belt".
If they are at an angle then one tie-wrap round each linked together like a chain. Derek.

Which was how they were secured originally - along with some 3m rubber traction tape in between. And the vibration still wore holes in the aluminum tubes. Braid in contact with anything is just a #2 file in the long term.

[dereklola]

As long as we are both happy that is fine.

I am surprised the stainless braid wore through your tie-wraps and into the al tube.
I had some on my cars for years with no visible wear - one of the reasons I liked them.

Have fun - Derek

[Rick Kirchner]

I misunderstood you. Now I get it - your method places zip ties between the tubes - I didn't read it that way. Yep - that would work.

[mikey]

Anyone printing carbon fiber? Brake ducts would be neat to design and print

[Jamesbe]

That would require a very specialized machine indeed. And very expensive.

You can print carbon infused plastic though, but from what I can tell it's mostly cosmetic with a normal printer. Maybe slightly stronger?

I got some aluminum infused and it is really brittle.

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[mikey]

Wasn’t sure anything else could serve as the duct. But then again not really sure how hot the center hub part of the upright gets. The duct would attach on the back and direct air through the center of the axle.

[Rick Kirchner]

high temp FFF plastics tend to be Nylon and Polycarbonate. you can get them carbon reinforced for strength, not temperature resistance.

They will hold up to about 195 C before starting to deform. However, it takes a special high temp extruder to lay them down (my machine has one).

The carbon fill wears out the nozzles pretty quickly unless its hardened steel or Ruby $$$$.

Fiberglas was used long before carbon. limiting factor is the resin more than the fabric.

[924RACR]

I would be inclined to use the printer to make molds for regular layup. Indeed, if I ever have space to set up a printer (and can work one up with at least a 2' or 3' reach in at least one axis) I'll be heading that direction and building up some multi-piece molds for new bodywork...

Sadly, these days, I don't even have space for a drill press...

[Stan Clayton]

I would be inclined to use the printer to make molds for regular layup. Indeed, if I ever have space to set up a printer (and can work one up with at least a 2' or 3' reach in at least one axis) I'll be heading that direction and building up some multi-piece molds for new bodywork...

You're in luck! The Modix Big-120X V3 3D Printer has a 120cm (47.2") X-axis (plus 60cm Y and 66cm Z). I have no relationship with Modix...just sharing a tool source I've been drooling over.

I have a friend in a non-racing composites business who uses them to directly print to mold, slicing together sections to make parts up to 20+ feet long. We are evaluating replacing our 8'x4'x2' 3-axis pattern cutting mill with a Modix to eliminate the man hours needed to finish a pattern from which to take molds.

[Jamesbe]

Yeah for sure you could print just the piece that attaches to the hub and then mold fiberglass or carbon over it.

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[mikey]

Thanks for the education on CF printing. I will get to work designing for a mold.

[DaveW]

Wasn’t sure anything else could serve as the duct. But then again not really sure how hot the center hub part of the upright gets. The duct would attach on the back and direct air through the center of the axle.

https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/sho...rototype-parts

[Rick Kirchner]

I have a Qidi x-max, which is about the biggest non-commercial enclosed device you can buy right now. 200x300x200mm build volume.

Since most of these printers are rep rap based, it's fairly "easy" to build huge ones with just some changes to g-code defining the various limits.

I say "easy" because if you were to follow this stuff on various forums you'd be astounded at the variety of problems people have when they get out a bit beyond the norm.

[mikey]

Ok, I've drawn up front and rear spacers that would be useful to be able to bolt the transport wheels on when the brake rotors and hats are not installed. these would only be used for pushing the car around, no real stress. They're required because if the brake rotors and hats are not installed then the transport wheels interfere with the brake calipers, which are reinstalled after removing the rotors just for safe keeping.

Mike or James, would you mind printing 2 each style? Happy to pay you or donate to a charity.

Cheers,
Mike

[mikey]

my 2D drawing skills in paint are getting better LOL
This piece is to smooth the airflow going into the left side pod. Printed in black would be great!
*updated drawing - previously forgot the overall length

[zangyomotorsports]

Here is the YouTube link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=s-vLN4YBRqs&feature=emb_logo

[Rick Kirchner]

Finally got PETG sorted out. Had been working with nylon and had a lot of spool tangles, so made this anti-tangle spool holder for the nylon. Then I sorted the nylon out and made these nifty tube clamps to support my electronics tray above the engine and behind my head. Had multiple generations of aluminum MS clamps crack and fall apart from all the vibration there.

[Rick Iverson]

Now THAT is trick

Huh if I knew anything about aerodynamics I'd try that. Likely make it worse.

Finished the front brackets for my alignment jig

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[mikey]

https://www.corvetteblogger.com/2020...tte-prototype/

cool!

[RSS]

Recently joined the cult I mean community of 3D printing. Plan is to make molds for some fiberglass layups and other brackets etc.

So far been learning the cad software (onshape) and printing off models to make sure they are correct. Enjoying Onshape as it has a NACA airfoil generator add on so you just need to know the profile name/# and its done for you.

[Rick Kirchner]

something simple, lightweight, and useful:



I have no idea why the image rotated from what's on my desktop.....

[bzneil]

Wow now that is simple and very functional!

[Stan Clayton]

something simple, lightweight, and useful:

I have no idea why the image rotated from what's on my desktop.....

If you're up for sharing the .stl, Rick, I'd love to print one for my SV engine's coil. Thanks, Stan

[Rick Kirchner]

If you're up for sharing the .stl, Rick, I'd love to print one for my SV engine's coil. Thanks, Stan

PM me with your e-mail

[Rick Kirchner]

Autodesk just released an add-in for F360 that optimizes airfoil shapes for use, speed, and fluid environment. Just downloaded it but haven't installed it yet.

From what the author said, you tell it what you are looking to optimize around (lift, drag reduction, etc) and then tell it the speed regime, fluid, etc and it creates an optimized airfoil for that application.

I'd think this wold be very useful for streamline fairings.

[AVR_Shane]

Getting in on the fun....made a hitch plug with our team logo/name

[Rick Kirchner]

This week i made a bunch of props that snap on the (failing) rods that hold up my RV bay doors. They are tow-sided, and store by snapping on the body of the strut.

Also dropped a washer down the oil drain back hole in the pinto. I had magnets that were too big and mounted on a spring-y flexible stick, or small enough but mounted on a rod. So I made a magnet holder for the spring-y stick that holds one of those really strong little dot magnets. heat-melted it all together.

Also made Anderson plug mounts, handles, and a dual voltmeter for the battery bay of my coach. Now I can instantly disconnect power and it's much easier to pull the tray out for maintenance.

[PK]

Finally got a 3d printed part on a race car. My son designed and printed a catch bottle holder.

[CGOffroad]

Finally got a 3d printed part on a race car. My son designed and printed a catch bottle holder.

Another part that is very useful is a cover for Weber carb. I had a model of car that the air filter was in the engine cover. So, when that was removed, carb top was open. Always good to have carb cover around!

[Roland V. Johnson]

Just remember to either make it air tight covering the choke shaft passage so the car will not start, or attach a long "remove before race"banner to it. I have seen more than one person not start a race because the engine would not accelerate with a cover on it.

[alangbaker]

Just remember to either make it air tight covering the choke shaft passage so the car will not start, or attach a long "remove before race"banner to it. I have seen more than one person not start a race because the engine would not accelerate with a cover on it.

Guilty as charged. Fortunately, it was a qualifying session, and even more fortunately, it made itself completely evident while still in pit lane.

[AVR_Shane]

Elevation track map? I did one as well, did you design yourself or find it online?

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James (or anyone else for that matter), have you created your own elevation track map? I'm trying to figure out how to use topographical maps to get the elevation of the track...it's not straight forward. If anyone has done this, I'd be thrilled to get some pointers!

[mikey]

it was mentioned earlier in this thread that GPS data from AIM can be converted into a file for 3D printing of the track, including elevation.

maybe just see how that is done and who has AIM GPS data for the track(s) you're interested in

[Jamesbe]

Yeah I think I posted instructions? Took me forever to figure it out.

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[Garey Guzman]

James (or anyone else for that matter), have you created your own elevation track map? I'm trying to figure out how to use topographical maps to get the elevation of the track...it's not straight forward. If anyone has done this, I'd be thrilled to get some pointers!

Yeah I think I posted instructions? Took me forever to figure it out.

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See James' instruction in post 65

[AVR_Shane]

I did see that. My data doesn't do GPS so just brings in another level of complexity trying to get the data from someone else. Topography seemed to be a good alternative, but is proving challenging.

[Mike B]

Depending on the track, you might find the 3d printer files on Thingiverse. I found Road America but didn't look for others. Mid-Ohio or Watkins Glen are probably on there. Blackhawk Farms or Putnam Park, probably not.