3D printed fun

[Jamesbe]

Elevation track map? I did one as well, did you design yourself or find it online?

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk

[Garey Guzman]

Elevation track map? I did one as well, did you design yourself or find it online?

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk

Everything so far has been from Thingiverse. That's Road America but I would like to do the other tracks I've been to. Best thing about that is that I've been able to focus on the printer and how different variables affect the print.

So far, nothing designed, just got SolidWorks downloaded on my son's computer but haven't played with it yet. We're on vacation till the 6th so hopefully I'll get to the good stuff next week.

[Garey Guzman]

Just in case, the Ender 3Pro is back on sale:

https://computers.woot.com/offers/sa...5080_464149490

[scorp997]

Hey, Garey
Where are the "Royale" name plates

looks great, I may have to invest in a printer!
John

I haven't started designing or making race car stuff but printing almost nonstop for Christmas gifts!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[Garey Guzman]

Hey, Garey
Where are the "Royale" name plates

looks great, I may have to invest in a printer!
John

I don't have a Royale!
The March "emblems" were prints of a picture. Since the picture was just dark blue print on a white background, it was very easy to print these from the Cura software. I could make the dark print any depth I wanted.

So you're saying I should make the Royale and sell them? You might be the only one who wants one! Also, the prints are flat but I imagine some curvature could be added.

[Rick Kirchner]

I would bet there's a significant market in marque badges. no real money to be made, but a lot of people will want them.

[cory mcleod]

I was thinking this morning about the viability of 3D printing an NLA part for one of my street cars, and then this thread popped up again in my daily look at "New Posts." Here is a picture of the part.

NLA overflow distribution T by cory58f5, on Flickr

It's part of the fuel overflow system between the fuel tank, overflow tank and filler neck. It's located behind a splash shield in the RR wheel well, so the new part would need to be fuel and weather resistant. I was lucky to buy a new part before they became NLA about 10 years ago, but there is definitely a demand for the part because it always rusts away on northern cars.

I know very little about 3D printing, so I would appreciate any feedback. How difficult/expensive would it be to replicate this part?

Thanks, Cory

[scorp997]

I know you don't, just a bit of ribbin'

You could check with Chris Shoemaker of RoyaleRacing and see if it something he would be interested in pursuing. The other vendors might also be interested in their marques, a more durable badge is something all cars could use.

As for the shape of the badge, Royales came with an oval sticker set into a recess in the nose. The current reproductions aren't as durable as the originals (the color is printed on the exterior of the membrane instead of the interior surface prior to the glue layer). The backside I think is almost flat (or was intended to be).

If you ever do think of making some up, let me know what the price might be.. Also, does your printer do different colors? It could be pretty cool to have the background made in black, and the lettering and raised edges in red and white.... just a thought....

I don't have a Royale!
The March "emblems" were prints of a picture. Since the picture was just dark blue print on a white background, it was very easy to print these from the Cura software. I could make the dark print any depth I wanted.

So you're saying I should make the Royale and sell them? You might be the only one who wants one! Also, the prints are flat but I imagine some curvature could be added.

[Garey Guzman]

What are the dimensions of x and y axis?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[samiam1017]

you can do additive metal, but not at our price points. There's a BASF filament that's 97% stainless. You print it and then send it off to be sintered. It shrinks some, so you probably have to do a couple of iterations.

The filament is over $500 a pound....

You can also print in casting sand and send it off to be poured. The Navy is making a lot of orphan parts for submarines that way.

There's also laser sintering of metal powder, but you really have to pay attention to strength issues.

Rick you know of a source for low volume sand castings?

[Rick Kirchner]

Rick you know of a source for low volume sand castings?

'fraid I don't. Friend of mine here built a small furnace and melts down cans and other aluminum scrap and does his own pours. We've talked about doing a 3d printed item, making a silicone mould, casting wax items off of that, and then the sand mould.

[Rick Kirchner]

I know very little about 3D printing, so I would appreciate any feedback. How difficult/expensive would it be to replicate this part?

Thanks, Cory

honestly, I think you'd be better off taking a piece of bar stock, boring it, tapping it for fittings, and screwing in brass fittings. $10 worth of fittings, $2 of aluminum, and less than 15 minutes on the lathe. heck, if you were careful you could bore it with a hand drill.

[Garey Guzman]

I know very little about 3D printing, so I would appreciate any feedback. How difficult/expensive would it be to replicate this part?

honestly, I think you'd be better off taking a piece of bar stock, boring it, tapping it for fittings, and screwing in brass fittings. $10 worth of fittings, $2 of aluminum, and less than 15 minutes on the lathe. heck, if you were careful you could bore it with a hand drill.

Rick's solution would probably be the best and most durable since the metal pieces will not be affected by the fuel. I would not be comfortable with fuel flowing through a PLA or even ABS piece.

[Rick Kirchner]

Nylon will likely work, but that takes a high-temp extruder. I have one and I'll be experimenting in the future with nylon, but it would take more development than one realizes- first proto it in PLA, then work to get a quality part in nylon, thne work to ensure you can print a whole plate of something like a dozen of them without problems before you'd be in a position to supply it.

[scorp997]

I thought I had a spare decal at home, apparently it is at the shop with my car (and nose). Let me see if I can get my friend to measure it. It is about 4” wide if that helps.

What are the dimensions of x and y axis?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[cory mcleod]

Rick's solution would probably be the best and most durable since the metal pieces will not be affected by the fuel. I would not be comfortable with fuel flowing through a PLA or even ABS piece.

Thanks for the responses!

Cory

[Rick Kirchner]

Here are some pics of stuff I designed and printed over the holidays. In the right pic, from left to right, top to bottom:

ARB bearing retainer, Clamp to hold control cables and position handlebar fold spring on my pit scooter (original method was a cheesy piece of neoprene glued around everything, it eventually disintegrated), VD oil tank separator tower block off/service plate (includes an o-ring grove), 90-95 VD front shock can bracket, RV cable entry plug. The collage shows all in use, and a nifty replacement foot for my shop stool!

[CGOffroad]

3D printed carb covers are a big hit ! There were some of these going around the paddock in AZ for a while. They were made for the 32/36. The 38/38 is just different enough that the cover couldn't be used on Pinto.

[Garey Guzman]

3D printed carb covers are a big hit ! There were some of these going around the paddock in AZ for a while. They were made for the 32/36. The 38/38 is just different enough that the cover couldn't be used on Pinto.

Yeah, that is something I want to make. My friend made me one from kevlar but now I have more than one car that need a cap! If you know anyone with the ".stl" file, I would love to print that!!

[Rick Kirchner]

I scanned in a carb last week - just haven't gotten around to figuring out how to bring it into f360 so I can sketch on top of it. I'll get it done in the next few days. Current project is a box to hold the coil, my tach amp, the protection circuitry for the tach amp, and the buss bars/terminal strips for all my connections. Sort of like the old Lucas box for a DFX. I'm discovering just how complex such a thing is with all the internal mounts, support structure, at least two lids, holes for various screws, etc.

When I make a carb cover I'm gonna stick a big-ass chunk of plastic out the side that will prevent me from putting the scoop on if the cover is in place.....

[TedV]

What are the dimensions of x and y axis?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

The nose in my basement has an outline that measures approximately 5 and 3 in freedom units.



Anyone have experience with FreeCAD? I have some things that I will need to model and design that might turn intricate. Larger than hobby 3D print stuff. It's on the short list along with Fusion360, SolveSpace, with Blender and Sketchup bringing up the rear. I guess I could download and test em since they are free. I have the option to take classes and get the student Solidworks but then I will no time for anything else in life.

One of the groups where I work has printed a car. I keep trying to get them to bring it out to some kind of competition but they never do. I think they are afraid it would fall apart.They may have also printed a house. 12-15 years ago I wanted work to buy 3D print machines and they all scoffed at me. Now there are half dozen maker bot sized machines across the hallway from my lab.

[Rick Kirchner]

I had forgotten completely about it, but we had a 3D Printer back at Naval Avionics (now Raytheon) on the East side of Indy back in 1988-ish. It was a huge resin/UV laser system, must have cost a half-mil back then! Made beautiful, high-res models. I can't imagine how difficult the process was - from having to use the custom ComputerVision workstations and software to god-only-knows-what kind of slicers they employed. I think Penske owned ComputerVison at one time.

I got into this during my Science Advisor Tour at Camp Lejeune. The USMC went pretty whole-hog on the thing - from having big ones in the maintenance shops and deployable via a containerized system (scanner, 3D printer, laser cutter, and small 5-axis CNC all in the same box) to setting up maker spaces at Lejeune, Pendleton, 29 Palms, and Oki. I helped put the one at Lejeune together.

When the new Commandant came in, he basically trashed everything we did. This doesn't surprise me - I had three friends work for him as he moved up the ranks and the first thing he did in every job was wipe out virtually everything his predecessor did. I've never understood that style of management.

On the other hand, some of the pioneers in makerspaces have died off (their business model was selling you classes before you could use a machine, along with hourly fees) - they were big in cities where folks couldn't just plop a bridgeport into their apartment. But if you can't make it in DC or NYC given the stupid amount of money people pay for conveniences there, then there must have been something wrong with your overall concept. The ones that have survived seem to be the ones built in shabbier spaces, with estate-sale and liquidation tools and a healthy artist community behind them.

Gary - just download F360. It's a pain, but after a few weeks it gets easier. I could never get Sketchup to do anything useful, although one of my friends here uses it for woodworking. Blender is more for Artists. I've tried a few more, but kept coming back to 360 and living with the learning curve.

[Kazis31]

very cool

[Rick Kirchner]

antique bubble balance - bubble holder was too big for race wheels, so printed this.

[Jamesbe]

Everything so far has been from Thingiverse. That's Road America but I would like to do the other tracks I've been to. Best thing about that is that I've been able to focus on the printer and how different variables affect the print.

So far, nothing designed, just got SolidWorks downloaded on my son's computer but haven't played with it yet. We're on vacation till the 6th so hopefully I'll get to the good stuff next week.

If you have the gps data from an AIM system for example, I have figured out a way to convert that into an elevation map.

I did calabogie motorsports park myself from scratch.

[Garey Guzman]

If you have the gps data from an AIM system for example, I have figured out a way to convert that into an elevation map.

I did calabogie motorsports park myself from scratch.

That's pretty freaking cool!
Data system not working on my Swift but maybe I should get it going again! Now I have more motivation!

[Gary_T]

James - if it's not too lengthy, I think instructions on that conversion would be very appreciated!

Gary

[Jamesbe]

James - if it's not too lengthy, I think instructions on that conversion would be very appreciated!

Gary

Sure I'll try to post something tomorrow been a few weeks so I'll have to refresh the steps exactly

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk

[Jamesbe]

James - if it's not too lengthy, I think instructions on that conversion would be very appreciated!

Gary

Abbreviated instructions but you should be able to get there with this:
You'll need to download the following program : GPSBable https://www.gpsbabel.org/

The best way I could get it to work was to export my data from AIM in CSV format.

Then edit the CVS file header to match the columns depending on your export. The rules are here: https://www.gpsbabel.org/htmldoc-dev...mt_unicsv.html

My file looks like this:

comment
name
comment
y
x
z

0
0
0
45.30172
-76.67
183.67

0.1
0.004
0
45.30173
-76.6701
183.67

0.2
0.007
0
45.30173
-76.6701
183.66

0.3
0.011
0
45.30173
-76.6702
183.66


           etc....

What's really important is the y x z of course. The rest I just use generic supported names so the conversion would work.

In GPS bable you suck your CSV in as "Universal csv with field structure in first line" and export as GPX XML format.

Once you have your GPX file you drop it into this website:
https://gpxtruder.xyz/

It will give you an STL.

[Mike B]

Got an Ender Pro 3 on black Friday and the first "useful" thing I made is a 1/4" countersink washer to bond behind the bodywork for a flush attachment to the nut plate on the chassis. I tried making them with carbon fiber filament and it worked okay but they don't seem as strong as plain PLA and it really clogged up the extruder. Anybody have success with CF?

[Jamesbe]

I wouldn't use pla. Although with cf it may be ok. Petg is stronger, more heat resistant and less brittle.



Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk

[Kazis31]

just got ender 3
let the fun begin...

[Kazis31]

carbon need different nozzle and higher temperature to work .
nylon x is better i think

[Mike B]

carbon need different nozzle and higher temperature to work .
nylon x is better i think

Correct. Even with a hardened steel 0.6 nozzle it still clogged. I was able to get enough washers to print but if I need more in the future I might try PETG.

[mikey]

If you’re just wanting to try experimenting, check your local library. They just might have a 3D printer. Visiting my dad this weekend and he showed me a part he made using free online cad software and printing at the library. And he lives in a small town that doesn’t even have fiber optic cable yet!

[Kazis31]

Tinkercad is best for newbies and it is free online ,get Cura for slicing images
and that is free as well.

[Garey Guzman]

Got an Ender Pro 3 on black Friday and the first "useful" thing I made is a 1/4" countersink washer to bond behind the bodywork for a flush attachment to the nut plate on the chassis. I tried making them with carbon fiber filament and it worked okay but they don't seem as strong as plain PLA and it really clogged up the extruder. Anybody have success with CF?

I bought PLA with CF, it was from SunTop 3D. I recall raising the nozzle temp to 214 and the bed to 60. The gloss black items in my picture above were plain black PLA (Hatchbox) and the lighter gray was the CF PLA. I haven't tested either for strength or brittleness but I got both types to print quite well. Only 2 failed prints - the very first (releveled bed after fail) and one in the middle of CF roll (I think I forgot to include supports).

I have found YouTube videos and the FB pages to be great sources of info, both for preventative and diagnostic help.

[Mike B]

I bought PLA with CF, it was from SunTop 3D. I recall raising the nozzle temp to 214 and the bed to 60. The gloss black items in my picture above were plain black PLA (Hatchbox) and the lighter gray was the CF PLA. I haven't tested either for strength or brittleness but I got both types to print quite well. Only 2 failed prints - the very first (releveled bed after fail) and one in the middle of CF roll (I think I forgot to include supports).

I have found YouTube videos and the FB pages to be great sources of info, both for preventative and diagnostic help.

Not sure what brand I have but I'm not sure it matters. I bought a whole roll so I'll keep trying!

[Jamesbe]

Oh brand matters so I've found. Some stuff is just junk. But likely an issue with temp or speed or leveling.

I use fusion360 it's very powerful and so far easy enough to use. Tried tinkercad, so complex for simple things I wanted to do as it's limited. It can do lots though if you figure it out.

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk

[bzneil]

This thread motivated me to draw up and print a rain light housing. My existing housing was cracked. Turned out pretty good. Thanks for the motivation! I used Rhino3D and printed out of ABS on a Stratasys uPrint.