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  1. #1
    Member
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    03.19.08
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    Aiken SC
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    Default Need help with removing the reverse idler spigot

    I removed the retaining bolt and the spigot won't budge. Can anyone whose removed the spigot before offer any solutions? Additionally the spigot has a flat head screw, not a socket head, that I'm not able to remove without butchering the slot. Ideally I'd just like to remove the flat head screw to replace the ldler gear.

    Any suggestions on removing the flat head screw or idler spigot would be appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Member scotty82's Avatar
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    04.02.19
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    Denton, Texas
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    Default

    Rick,

    You will need to heat that portion of the case to around 200 degrees F.
    The case will then release the spigot .
    Leave the idler on the spigot , Reach in with a welding glove and pull.
    Or
    Remove the left side plate . pull out the diff and with punch tap the spigot out from within the diff section of the case into the transmission section .
    The key here is the case has to be in the 180 range ,
    Installing a new one is a different game
    Scott Young
    Scott Young Enterprises
    scotty@sy-gearboxes.com

  3. #3
    Member scotty82's Avatar
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    04.02.19
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    Default

    Rick..

    Same thing for the Idler gear screw,,, Heat,
    Chances are the screw is retained with loctite. Heat will break that down and open the spigot ,
    Scott Young
    Scott Young Enterprises
    scotty@sy-gearboxes.com

  4. #4
    Member
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    London
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    Default

    If you do end up removing the reverse idler then make sure you set the backlash correctly as that thing is constanly in mesh. From the manual :


    When fitting the reverse idler:
    Heat up the casing (D1) and insert the reverse idler assembly into the casing. Rotate the assembly around until the reverse gears of the pinion
    shaft (A41) and the idler (D11) have a backlash of 0.017 inches. Measure this with feeler gauge. Allow the casing to cool and measure
    the backlash again, it should be approximately 0.012-0.015 inches. Rotate the pinionshaft (D17) to feel that the reverse idler (D11) is rotating
    smoothly with the pinionshaft (D17). If it is not repeat the process until it runs smoothly.

  5. #5
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    Default Thanks for the help

    I've managed to remove the slottted screw and install the bearing and replace the gear. I'll put the bearing carrier back in this weekend and see if I have reverse. Thanks for all the help. Heat on the screw was the trick so removing the idler spigot wasn't necessary. Again thanks for the encouragement.

    Rick

  6. #6
    Member
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    01.03.18
    Location
    SF Bay Area
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    Default Installing reverse in case that never had it fitted

    I have the opposite challenge - I have a main case that has never had a spud/spigot installed. What case mods are needed to install one?

    I understand you need to spot-face the mounting boss where the spud will sit, heat and install, mess with the angle to make sure that the idler engages reverse drive gear? Then drill the set screw hole with the spud in place, tap and install the set screw?

    Probably wrong - but this is all verbal stuff I heard a few years ago but was never written down. Any tips welcomed.

    Thx?

  7. #7
    Member
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    03.19.08
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    Aiken SC
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    Default I have a prepped case if you're interested.

    H00die

    I have a prepped case if you're interested. No internals. It has a hydraulic throw out bearing installed. Missing the idler spigot you're trying to install. Everything is prepped Came out of a FF complete and I picked it up from the previous owner. It has Webster side plates with flanged stub axles. Everything for $325 plus shipping

    Rick
    631-834-4884

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